Wet Motor

[Mike Starrett]

Do you guys do anything with your motors after they get dunked?

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Dry them out and throughly flush with Corrosion X.

 

[Steve White]

Replace rod, piston, sleeve, wrist pin, crank.... JK

 

[HTV Boats]

I assume since the question is posted in an FE forum we are not talking about piston motors. Hate to see anyone flush an electric motor with anything that might harm wires, coating or epoxies. CorrosionX is the best.
Mic

 

[Rod Fonda]

I assume since the question is posted in an FE forum we are not talking about piston motors. Hate to see anyone flush an electric motor with anything that might harm wires, coating or epoxies. CorrosionX is the best.
Mic

Oops,,I assumed,,,I didn't see/notice it was an FE forum,,Us old nitro heads think every motor/engine has a piston lol,,Thanks for pointing it out Mic,,cheers

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Corrosion X works well for both Nitro, FE and Gas motors. Universally good after run oil.

 

[Mike Starrett]

Thanks everyone. I just wanted to be sure I wouldn't damage wiring etc. with foreign substances.

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

And people say motor/engine are the same thing

 

[Mark Bullard]

After clean out and flushing. If you could put a little heat on the motor with a heat gun or in a oven for around 120 degrees. This will dry the winding. For about an hour. Just enough to warm the motor to the touch. Even thou the voltage is not that high on the smaller cell packs the bigger ones could blow a hole from one phase to another in the winding when you put full power to the motor. Motor will be dead from that point.

We clean windings all the time with a steam cleaner to remove greases. We then dry in our bake ovens at 300 degrees for about 4 hours. We put more time on it if the motor is bigger. Of course we are dealing with motors that the voltage can be 120vac to 4160vac. The higher the voltage the higher the blow between phases or to ground.

 

[Wasted wages]

You could purchase an inexpensive megohmeter... it will keep track of insulation breakdown over time...

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-M500-I...=1&keywords=megohmmeter&qid=1625670539&sr=8-4

 

[Rod Fonda]

After clean out and flushing. If you could put a little heat on the motor with a heat gun or in a oven for around 120 degrees. This will dry the winding. For about an hour. Just enough to warm the motor to the touch. Even thou the voltage is not that high on the smaller cell packs the bigger ones could blow a hole from one phase to another in the winding when you put full power to the motor. Motor will be dead from that point.

We clean windings all the time with a steam cleaner to remove greases. We then dry in our bake ovens at 300 degrees for about 4 hours. We put more time on it if the motor is bigger. Of course we are dealing with motors that the voltage can be 120vac to 4160vac. The higher the voltage the higher the blow between phases or to ground.

Always amazed me how those insulation coatings stood up to the pressure,I remember those open class slot car motors with 16-20 turns/pole, 24gauge wire,3 pole pulling quite a few amps and a zillion revs at 12-16V,almost red hot and not failing,,some secret proprietary hi temp epoxy you couldn't buy at your local shop I supposed

 

[Wasted wages]

They sell a paint called Glyptal... it's an electric motor epoxy paint for painting windings...not sure about the actual coating on the bare copper winding itself... I'm sure that is some proprietary blend known only to the manufacturer.

I use Glyptal to seal the inside of engine blocks and heads to help seal the cast iron and speed oil return to the pan..

http://www.glyptal.com/glyptal_products.html

 

[Mark Bullard]

They sell a paint called Glyptal... it's an electric motor epoxy paint for painting windings...not sure about the actual coating on the bare copper winding itself... I'm sure that is some proprietary blend known only to the manufacturer.

I use Glyptal to seal the inside of engine blocks and heads to help seal the cast iron and speed oil return to the pan..

http://www.glyptal.com/glyptal_products.html

Yep we buy it by the case. We call it reddog.

 

[Mark Bullard]

You could purchase an inexpensive megohmeter... it will keep track of insulation breakdown over time...

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-M500-I...=1&keywords=megohmmeter&qid=1625670539&sr=8-4

Yes a megohmeter will test the windings to ground. But understand it is a high voltage test or what we call a destructive test. A wet winding will punch a hole quicker that anything with a high voltage test.

 

[Rod Fonda]

They sell a paint called Glyptal... it's an electric motor epoxy paint for painting windings...not sure about the actual coating on the bare copper winding itself... I'm sure that is some proprietary blend known only to the manufacturer.

I use Glyptal to seal the inside of engine blocks and heads to help seal the cast iron and speed oil return to the pan..

http://www.glyptal.com/glyptal_products.html

Cheers Frank,,Yeah,,whatever they use on the bare copper,,it's pretty tuff stuff



I did hear about the Glyptol for engine blocks and oil return,but after I put my 355 together,,At least I deburred,polished and drilled out the oil returns in the heads lol