Walbro 257 Carb Fuel Inlet Position

[Rich Jones]

I‘m in the process of installing the motor in my Backlash Gen3 so I can line up and install the shaft log. I have cut about as much clearance as I can in the engine well side without going all the way down to the deck and it still seems like the fuel line connection will be challenging. I have tried to search the web on whether or not you can rotate the fuel inlet without problems but I can’t find anything definitive. I don’t want to damage it. Anyone ever run into this?

 

[Mario Johnston]

I ran into the same thing building my slingshot, Rich. Grab a pair of pliers and twist it into place REEEALLY slow. Worked fine for me

 

[Rich Jones]

I ran into the same thing building my slingshot, Rich. Grab a pair of pliers and twist it into place REEEALLY slow. Worked fine for me

. And it’s still tight? In other words it doesn’t spin freely? I don’t want to create a leak? Heck I think if I could move it 1/8” that would do it.

 

[Mark Anderson]

About half the time when you turn them, they crack. The plastic is molded to a splined nipple. I prefer to buy a new one and install it in the wanted position rather than chance it. Cut the plastic off of the nipple and grab the nipple with vise grips. Rotate and pull until it pops out. Tap the new one in. Alternately some people remove the fitting, tap the hole 10-32 and put a curved water fitting in. There are also metal replacement stock fittings available.

 

[Rich Jones]

Thanks guys. Kinda sucks that the piece in question isn’t easily adjustable considering how far gas rc boats have come. I may just chamfer the deck in that spot for a little more clearance. It is under the cowl and behind the splash shield anyway so with the cowl on you won’t be able to see it. We will see how it comes together. I do like the idea of just installing another in a different position.

 

[Edward Drock]

Google it I found a new fuel inlet that was all metal. Mine was very hard to get out but I did get it out. Take your time pressing the new one in.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

If your swapping one out. Just grab the plastic 90° and break it off. Tiny ez out grabs the brass nipple from inside and will remove the worst stuck nipple in seconds.

 

[Chris Kurtz]

I just did all three of my engines. They all were pretty tight and I thought they would crack but I got them to twist about a quarter turn each without cracking.
They all did leak afterwards however. I just put a small bead of JB Weld around them and all is good now.

 

[Rich Jones]

Oh cool so you were able to seal them up. Good deal!

 

[Mark Anderson]

Please don't trust jb weld. The nipples are cheap. You know at some point it will leak and ruin your day

 

[Rich Jones]

I also bought a few new ones. So no problem to remove and tap in a new one. Maybe I’ll just go that route

 

[Danny King]

If you have a small hand pump and pressure gauge you can move it and test it with the pump. If it leaks then change it. I’ve done many. Some leak. Some don’t.

 

[Rich Jones]

If you have a small hand pump and pressure gauge you can move it and test it with the pump. If it leaks then change it. I’ve done many. Some leak. Some don’t.

You talking like a bike pump? If not what would I want to use?

 

[Danny King]

Something like this with a different hose.

https://www.anthem-sports.com/tande...WzAgmBV5GZzbjQl44nJtd1SQRMnHIqwoaAmdGEALw_wcB

 

[Chris Kurtz]

Or you could use something like a mighty vac for bleeding brakes. Mine does both vacuum and pressure.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

These little nipples are a pain but as others have said, just install a new one in the position you want. If you buy an extra carb, buy a nipple also because they always come clocked in different directions. I try to clock mine in the same positions so I can swap carbs from boat to boat if needed. Sometimes you get lucky and can turn them without skipping a spline.

One thing I’ve noticed when installing them is to put a piece of wire in the nipple while tapping it in so you don’t accidentally collapse the ID.

Can you guys post a link to the metal fitting?

Brian

 

[Mark Anderson]

B & B Specialties, LLC - Walbro Metal Gas Inlet Fitting (bennettbuilt.com)
Same price as the plastic one. Some people also tap the hole 10/32 and use a screw in fitting.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

Nice, thanks Mark.

 

[moontz]

I rotated mine a bit for the same reason on my backlash and never thought twice about it creating a leak. Ended up testing it today with some soapy water around the fitting and pressing on my gas bag to push some air through and sure enough bubbles formed around the inlet... Glad I stumbled on this thread Will be replacing

 

[Rich Jones]

Well I trashed the original one so I got the metal part out with vice grips with some effort. I’m tapping the new one in with a mallet and a small deep well socket. It’s been a bit of a slow process. The question is, should there be any amount of brass showing or should the plastic rest on the carb body? This is where it’s at currently.