Unknown 42" mono converted to electric

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LibertyFrancis

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Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
I acquired 12 boats from an estate sale. This unknow brand 42" hull which was setup for gas/nitro originally. All I do know is that it is older.

I have never built or driven an RC boat so all of this is new to me!
My son and I like the blue metal flake and decided to build this one out with a brushless setup. (I am an electric guy)

Blue sparkles Capture.JPG

I started by removing the vintage hardware. (In hind-sight I should have left these trim tabs as is.)
tabs Capture.JPG

Removed the wood and tube out of the bottom. Fiber glassed the bottom and patched the hole. Did some finishing on the bottom side with JB Weld and a sanding block.

inside Capture.JPG

Converted to TFL stinger setup with Octura x447 prop and 3/16" drive.
Adjustable trim tabs with G10 plate added to provide larger surface area. (not a shelf queen but it works)

Rear tabs Capture.JPG

DS3225 servo with 250mm steering link rod and ball ends
radio box
SeaKing 180a
Aluminum adjustable motor mount
TP Power TP4070 1700KV motor
Leopard 40x50mm cooling sleeve.
Large G10 battery tray (still working on sweet spot for battery placement.)
Nearly finished Capture.JPG

Still need to paint over the hull patches, but she gets up on plane fast and seems to move good.
Just need to finalize the battery placement and trim adjustments. Only drive issue is some bounce at mid range speeds, but ran like a banshee!
 
Last edited:

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
Few changes:
XLX2 ESC with QS8 connectors.
Modified my X447 prop (shaper and bent a little more pitch into it. ( I am estimating it is now around a 1.63 pitch based on the OSE calculator)

Ran tonight on a single 4s YoWoo 6Ah pack and hit 48 mph on 4s. (still a 1700kv TP Power 4070 motor)

48 on GPS.PNG

6 back to back speed passes in under 1 minute, and the ESC didn't even break a sweat.
Also based on the amp load I can tell it would take a lot more prop.

6 runs 4s at 48 mph.PNG
 

Wasted wages

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Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,062
42" hull with a CMB .90 in it,,,
I run a Prather S-275 ( 75x109 mm/2.95x4.3in)
surface driven....

You should be able to pull a lot more than a X447... but I don't know much about FE...
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
42" hull with a CMB .90 in it,,,
I run a Prather S-275 ( 75x109 mm/2.95x4.3in)
surface driven....

You should be able to pull a lot more than a X447... but I don't know much about FE...
I agree this setup could support a much larger prop.

I had planned to run this boat on 8s (over 40k rpms), but doing so the boat would try to go beyond 80mph and blow over. This motor and ESC setup is honestly meant for my high speed rigger build, which I plan to push above 100 mph. I figured this was a good test rig to learn about the loads created with boats. I'll put the SeaKing 180a back in and get another motor (likely a Leopard 4092) to replace this TP Power.
 

Wasted wages

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,062
Well, you definitely understand all this FE stuff for sure!! That telemetry data is pretty awesome.. is that downloaded from the speed controller ? or is that a stand alone system you have linked to your radio ?
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
Well, you definitely understand all this FE stuff for sure!! That telemetry data is pretty awesome.. is that downloaded from the speed controller ? or is that a stand alone system you have linked to your radio ?
Thanks Frank, I am still learning the boat props.... but starting to get a good handle on it modifying these cheap octuras. I have done a lot in the RC Car community with teaching and helping speed runners as we call them. Electric is my "thing" and in my opinion Castle ESCs with TP Power motors are some of the best combos.

That is the data logs from the Castle XLX2 speed controller as you guessed.
Having good data is so helpful. When I was running the Seaking 180a the only thing I could do is check the temps with an IR gun after running....

The amperage and RPMs are the most useful to me. I know the motor isn't working hard till it reaches around 320+amps. At some point around 400+ amps it will saturate with amperage and only produce more heat.
 
Last edited:

Chris doherty

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2021
Messages
20
I acquired 12 boats from an estate sale. This unknow brand 42" hull which was setup for gas/nitro originally. All I do know is that it is older.

I have never built or driven an RC boat so all of this is new to me!
My son and I like the blue metal flake and decided to build this one out with a brushless setup. (I am an electric guy)

View attachment 293890

I started by removing the vintage hardware. (In hind-sight I should have left these trim tabs as is.)
View attachment 293891

Removed the wood and tube out of the bottom. Fiber glassed the bottom and patched the hole. Did some finishing on the bottom side with JB Weld and a sanding block.

View attachment 293892

Converted to TFL stinger setup with Octura x447 prop and 3/16" drive.
Adjustable trim tabs with G10 plate added to provide larger surface area. (not a shelf queen but it works)

View attachment 293893

DS3225 servo with 250mm steering link rod and ball ends
radio box
SeaKing 180a
Aluminum adjustable motor mount
TP Power TP4070 1700KV motor
Leopard 40x50mm cooling sleeve.
Large G10 battery tray (still working on sweet spot for battery placement.)
View attachment 293894

Still need to paint over the hull patches, but she gets up on plane fast and seems to move good.
Just need to finalize the battery placement and trim adjustments. Only drive issue is some bounce at mid range speeds, but ran like a banshee!
That old hardware Inc the flake boat is 100%
I acquired 12 boats from an estate sale. This unknow brand 42" hull which was setup for gas/nitro originally. All I do know is that it is older.

I have never built or driven an RC boat so all of this is new to me!
My son and I like the blue metal flake and decided to build this one out with a brushless setup. (I am an electric guy)

View attachment 293890

I started by removing the vintage hardware. (In hind-sight I should have left these trim tabs as is.)
View attachment 293891

Removed the wood and tube out of the bottom. Fiber glassed the bottom and patched the hole. Did some finishing on the bottom side with JB Weld and a sanding block.

View attachment 293892

Converted to TFL stinger setup with Octura x447 prop and 3/16" drive.
Adjustable trim tabs with G10 plate added to provide larger surface area. (not a shelf queen but it works)

View attachment 293893

DS3225 servo with 250mm steering link rod and ball ends
radio box
SeaKing 180a
Aluminum adjustable motor mount
TP Power TP4070 1700KV motor
Leopard 40x50mm cooling sleeve.
Large G10 battery tray (still working on sweet spot for battery placement.)
View attachment 293894

Still need to paint over the hull patches, but she gets up on plane fast and seems to move good.
Just need to finalize the battery placement and trim adjustments. Only drive issue is some bounce at mid range speeds, but ran like a banshee!
I acquired 12 boats from an estate sale. This unknow brand 42" hull which was setup for gas/nitro originally. All I do know is that it is older.

I have never built or driven an RC boat so all of this is new to me!
My son and I like the blue metal flake and decided to build this one out with a brushless setup. (I am an electric guy)

View attachment 293890

I started by removing the vintage hardware. (In hind-sight I should have left these trim tabs as is.)
View attachment 293891

Removed the wood and tube out of the bottom. Fiber glassed the bottom and patched the hole. Did some finishing on the bottom side with JB Weld and a sanding block.

View attachment 293892

Converted to TFL stinger setup with Octura x447 prop and 3/16" drive.
Adjustable trim tabs with G10 plate added to provide larger surface area. (not a shelf queen but it works)

View attachment 293893

DS3225 servo with 250mm steering link rod and ball ends
radio box
SeaKing 180a
Aluminum adjustable motor mount
TP Power TP4070 1700KV motor
Leopard 40x50mm cooling sleeve.
Large G10 battery tray (still working on sweet spot for battery placement.)
View attachment 293894

Still need to paint over the hull patches, but she gets up on plane fast and seems to move good.
Just need to finalize the battery placement and trim adjustments. Only drive issue is some bounce at mid range speeds, but ran like a banshee!
The hardware you took off the blue flake boat is definitely prather I have a offshore deep vee and it's the same exact hardware
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
Lets say someone wanted to attempt 80+mph with a large Deep Vee. Has anyone ever experimented with a front wing to keep the nose down?

Front wing Capture.JPG
 

Wasted wages

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,062
See rule E below.
Wings are not legal on mono's in the IMPBA.
Now, if you're just doing it to try for a personal goal, then go for it..... just can't set a record with the hull....


“Mono” is a hull that has a continuous wetted surface when operating at racing speed. Mono
must incorporate the following design characteristics and not exceed any of the dimensional
restrictions.
a. A hull that has no discontinuities between or steps in the wetted surface running at more
than a 15-degree angle with keel, in plane view (bottom view).
b. No point on a hull cross section shall be deeper in the water than the center keel (skid
fins, trim tabs, and cavitation plates excepted).
c. A lap straked hull is defined as a single wetted surface hull, with at least one strake on
each side of keel. Any number of strakes may be used.
i. A strake is a strip of wood, metal, fiberglass or other material that is permanently
attached to the hull bottom or used in an overlapping "weatherboard" hull
construction.
ii. If strakes are used between mid-point of the hull length and transom, they must be
parallel with the keel.
iii. Strakes terminating before the transom cannot have squared ends creating a step;
they must be faired.
iv. Strakes must not be as low as keel.
v. Strakes shall be no more than 3/4 of an inch wide and 5/16 of an inch deep.
d. Cathedral type hulls and other multiple wetted surface hulls are not legal in the Mono hull
classes.
e. Wings are illegal on a Mono.
f. Examples: See Appendix 1 - Mono Hull
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
See rule E below.
Wings are not legal on mono's in the IMPBA.
Now, if you're just doing it to try for a personal goal, then go for it..... just can't set a record with the hull....


“Mono” is a hull that has a continuous wetted surface when operating at racing speed. Mono
must incorporate the following design characteristics and not exceed any of the dimensional
restrictions.
a. A hull that has no discontinuities between or steps in the wetted surface running at more
than a 15-degree angle with keel, in plane view (bottom view).
b. No point on a hull cross section shall be deeper in the water than the center keel (skid
fins, trim tabs, and cavitation plates excepted).
c. A lap straked hull is defined as a single wetted surface hull, with at least one strake on
each side of keel. Any number of strakes may be used.
i. A strake is a strip of wood, metal, fiberglass or other material that is permanently
attached to the hull bottom or used in an overlapping "weatherboard" hull
construction.
ii. If strakes are used between mid-point of the hull length and transom, they must be
parallel with the keel.
iii. Strakes terminating before the transom cannot have squared ends creating a step;
they must be faired.
iv. Strakes must not be as low as keel.
v. Strakes shall be no more than 3/4 of an inch wide and 5/16 of an inch deep.
d. Cathedral type hulls and other multiple wetted surface hulls are not legal in the Mono hull
classes.
e. Wings are illegal on a Mono.
f. Examples: See Appendix 1 - Mono Hull
Only doing this for fun, for myself. Might go to a SAW event one day though with the rigger if I can get it going 130+
This deep vee is just for learning/tuning props, messing around, and having fun.


Isn't that what they invented trim tabs for
Yes, but the boat is a 42" lever. Those little trim tabs can only do so much when you have 80+ mph air pushing on the large face of the hull.
 

Chris doherty

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2021
Messages
20
Only doing this for fun, for myself. Might go to a SAW event one day though with the rigger if I can get it going 130+
This deep vee is just for learning/tuning props, messing around, and having fun.




Yes, but the boat is a 42" lever. Those little trim tabs can only do so much when you have 80+ mph air pushing on the large face of the hull.
Well I've ran monos that size faster then 80 mph with trim tabs just run the boat and see your trying to solve issues your not having yet first run trim tabs
 

Wasted wages

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,062
I've seen boats have up to 4" SS L shaped trim tabs before...
As long as they are mounted an 1/8" or so above the flat part of the bottom they make the boat think it's longer and come into play if it starts to lift the bow.

they can be trimmed with shears at an angle to make small adjustments, as well as be bent up or down with a good pair of sheet metal hand clamps. It's what I have used on my husselcraft for years. I really don't like those adjustable type tabs.... they don't seem to be wide enough on the ride plates.
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
Well I've ran monos that size faster then 80 mph with trim tabs just run the boat and see your trying to solve issues your not having yet first run trim tabs
Valid point. I am going to try out the Octura 1760 prop and see how the behavior changes.
I'll do more testing before going to any extreme of a front wing. I like the concept of a front wing and know it is proven with hydroplanes.

I've seen boats have up to 4" SS L shaped trim tabs before...
As long as they are mounted an 1/8" or so above the flat part of the bottom they make the boat think it's longer and come into play if it starts to lift the bow.

they can be trimmed with shears at an angle to make small adjustments, as well as be bent up or down with a good pair of sheet metal hand clamps. It's what I have used on my husselcraft for years. I really don't like those adjustable type tabs.... they don't seem to be wide enough on the ride plates.
I mounted mine higher allowing room to epoxy on my own additional plate for a larger surface area (adjustable type).
You can see them in my first post. They are made of G10 plate.
 

LibertyFrancis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Messages
45
I didn't realize the S-Class Mono (8s voltage) record is only 79.674 mph.
Might be a fun goal to shoot for.

1631642252511.png
 

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