Tools for sleeve porting.

[Samuel Hagan JR]

What tools are you using for sleeve porting if you don’t have access to fancy machinery. What type of grinding bit works best?

 

[LohringMiller]

If you're talking about the industrial style gasoline engines, see my article Zenoah Porting 101.

Lohring Miller

 

[Mark Anderson]

Most of our currently available nitro engines don't need "porting". Maybe adjust the compression ratio, set the head clearance and work on the set up and prop. The time area numbers are pretty well dialed in it's not like the old days.

 

[Steve White]

What tools are you using for sleeve porting if you don’t have access to fancy machinery. What type of grinding bit works best?

As noted, for a nitro engine with a chromed sleeve leave it alone. If you want to change the timing, machine the block to reduce - put shims under the sleeve to increase. That doesn't change blowdown angle of course, but probably not something to mess with anyway for starting out.

For a ferrous sleeves there are many options from hand porting with a file or Dremel tool, die grinder or rotary table on a milling machine.

What grinding bit works best? Whatever fits the area you are working in. Probably start with a carbide cutting bit and finish with grinding bit, file, wet dry or small hand stone for polishing, etc.

 

[charles siler]

Sam These are some other tools that I use for porting and a lot of the guys you can get them out of Rio grande they are jewelry tool place online and you don’t have to get all of them I use them for my work. If you can and you wanna spend good money by afford them or some kind of Dremel. The diamond texturing bars are good but you have to use beeswax or you’ll burn off the diamond compound. A 320 wet dry sandpaper is a finish not a polish but a good finish to wear your fuel doesn’t bead. Good luck Charlie

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

For a Nitro sleeve. I need to open a window port for a updated motor.
Thanks Charles.

 

[charles siler]

Yes it will do it no problem you want to Debur the area that you are working on and you can do so bye corking the liner you should do that to all your liners specially CMBs it says to do so in the box.

 

[Steve White]

Most of our currently available nitro engines don't need "porting". Maybe adjust the compression ratio, set the head clearance and work on the set up and prop. The time area numbers are pretty well dialed in it's not like the old days.

This is fact.

So, Samuel learn this first then graduate to porting, drilling sleeves and pistons and general engine debauchery.

Keep in mind, there will be a pile of carnage as an integral part of the learning curve when you start cutting metal. Timing is the very last thing you want to mess with. Head/Compression, pipe, prop, fuel, glow plug, boat setup are where to begin.

Have fun sir, cuz this it what it's all about!

 

[Geraghty]

These remarks will make the fur fly...... The model engine business was , is and still very competitive....
If porting and hogging on an engine is such a good idea don't you think they would just leave the parts in the CNC for an extra minute and do all that performance machining?????......Just askin' ?
Anderson is right......there are a lot of other things in RC boating that require attention before you attack a motor with a Dremel on steroids.....
Now for all of you that don't consider these remarks.....the manufacturers love you to death.....They make lots of very expensive spare parts every day.......

 

[Steve White]

^^^ I chose words carefully so as not to ignite a firestorm. Even removed “butcher” & "hack' from comments.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I got the answer I need from Charles. I don’t need to graduate from tuning a motor. My engines are plenty fast stock. I just needed to open a window on a intake port. Im out.

 

[David Bryant]

it's not like the old days.

like 1980's engines?

 

[Wally Marsh]

Samuel, all positive comments here but getting back to your question, along with Charles Siler’s suggested tools, check out the EC Moore dental abrasives website. They sell a whole line of small, precision carbide dental burrs, along with rubber abrasive tips for final finishing, I prefer the “bullet” points in fine and x-fine. For prop finishing they also sell a large variety of small flexible abrasive discs and quick change mandrels, especially the mylar backed Moore Magnum line in 5/8 or 7/8 diameter in silicon carbide (aggressive ) or aluminum oxide (less aggressive) All are made to fit 3/32-1/8 collets on a Dremel rotary tool. Just take your time and think it thru as you go. It’s not the end of the world if you do make a mistake, and you’ll learn something new along the way.

http://www.ecmoore.com/

 

[Steve White]

Samuel, all positive comments here but getting back to your question, along with Charles Siler’s suggested tools, check out the EC Moore dental abrasives website. They sell a whole line of small, precision carbide dental burrs, along with rubber abrasive tips for final finishing, I prefer the “bullet” points in fine and x-fine. For prop finishing they also sell a large variety of small flexible abrasive discs and quick change mandrels, especially the mylar backed Moore Magnum line in 5/8 or 7/8 diameter in silicon carbide (aggressive ) or aluminum oxide (less aggressive) All are made to fit 3/32-1/8 collets on a Dremel rotary tool. Just take your time and think it thru as you go. It’s not the end of the world if you do make a mistake, and you’ll learn something new along the way.

http://www.ecmoore.com/

Great site!!!

 

[dwilfong]

The best thing to use is the Dimond burrs on E bay to remove the chrome. 30pcs Diamond Burr Bits Drill Kit for Engraving Carving Grinding Rotary Tool Set 712994314222 | eBay
The hardest part is removing the chrome first the brass will cut easy.
for the brass cutting and the aluminum case cutting use the single cut burrs. 10Pcs 1/8'' Shank Tungsten Carbide Burr Rotary Drill Bit Tools Cut Files Set Kit | eBay
And run them on a candle from time to time to keep the aluminum from clogging the single cut burs.
Take your time with the chrome and try and do it even. The brass will cut quick.
The trick is making the ports wider not taller. You want more timed area not higher timing.
The ports in the case need to also be made wider and deeper to flow the nitro suspended in the air stream.
Any where it gets choked down will force the nitro to puddle up and fall out of suspension.
Sharp corners and sharp turns will also drop the nitro out of suspension.
Happy cutting.........

 

[dwilfong]

O my first name is BASTARD my middle name is HOGED OUT and my last name is BUTCHER........

 

[Ray Sametz]

B. H. O. B. you need an Emoji.