Throttle linkage question

Discussion in 'Outboard Forum' started by ChrisHerzog, Sep 15, 2019.

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  1. Sep 15, 2019 #1

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

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    So what’s the secret to getting a smooth consistent throttle response with a throttle cable?

    This is a first for me, setting up a cable style throttle linkage on an OB and so far lm not tickled pink with the outcome. It seems sloppy although I get full throttle and can shut the carb all the way. It also doesn’t move when I turn the engine left or right. My problem is... when I take my finger off the trigger from either full throttle or when I put the trigger forward to kill the engine, the carb barrel never goes back to the same place. If I’m full throttle it may go back to 3/4’s, 1/2 or less then 1/2 but never in the same place twice.

    Any tips?

    Thanks
    Chris
     
  2. Sep 15, 2019 #2

    Mike Hughes

    Mike Hughes

    Mike Hughes

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    What size cable are you useing? I use the small sullivan one.You need to make sure either end is solidly mounted and turning does not bind the cable. It sounds like you dont have enough slack inbetween the mounts. Which when turning will bind and change the cable setting.
    Mike
     
  3. Sep 15, 2019 #3

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

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    Mike,
    The cable itself looks to be about 1/16th” in diameter. It’s the Du-Bro #344 48” flex cable assembly cut down to length.

    Again, it does not seem to be binding up when I turn the motor side to side nor does the carb barrel move when I turn side to side. I just have not been able to get the carb to come back to the same barrel opening location after I move the trigger no matter what position the engine is in.

    Is it better to use the smaller cables?

    I know I can get this to work better I just need to keep playing with it!!
     
  4. Sep 15, 2019 #4

    Wally Marsh

    Wally Marsh

    Wally Marsh

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    Mike has provided some good advice. I prefer Sullivan golden cable #507 for setting up all my .21 tunnels (0.032 diameter) or #508 (0.056 diameter). You should check that the barrel of the carb works completely free through rotation from fully closed to fully open. Even the smallest binding will cause issues like you describe.
     
  5. Sep 16, 2019 #5

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

    ChrisHerzog

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    I’ll check to make sure nothing is dragging with the carb barrel and go from there.

    Thanks guys for the input.

    Chris
     
  6. Oct 9, 2019 #6

    Daniel's Racing

    Daniel's Racing

    Daniel's Racing

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    Chris,
    What your experiencing is inherent in many cable setups. It is just the slack of the cable not being tight in the housing. A small throttle return spring on the carb can keep cable taught so there isn't that slack and play from one direction to the other.

    It should make your idle trim settings remain stable and constant again.
     
  7. Oct 10, 2019 #7

    Alan Elzer

    Alan Elzer

    Alan Elzer

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    Chris
    I like 1/16" but with heavy braided cable (the strains are very course) dou bro cable is a fine mesh of many cables & will bind or bend before pushing back if anything sticks. Also when putting cable in plastic sleeve coat it with Vaseline instead of grease (easier to cleanup later to solder later if needed). I solder the ends before cutting as well.
    I think Sullivan has the course cable stuff.
    You can order from McMaster as well for both cable h plastic sleeve. If you need a part number let me know.
    Al
     
  8. Oct 11, 2019 #8

    Jim Allen

    Jim Allen

    Jim Allen

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    Chris,

    A .056" OD Metal Cable Gold-N-Rod from Sullivan works extremely well. The cable is stranded stainless steel with plating for easy soldering. It is made to tight tolerances to give smooth operation with minimum friction even when used in a tight radius. I use heat shrink tubing to seal the cable housing to the cable.
     

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