T-PLUS BUILD

[user 21992]

Sharing a little sneak preview of the MISS T-PLUS 1/6 Gas Scale. The frame work is finally coming along nicely after redoing the bulkhead templates over for the third time. Have four more formers templates to go and than to the task of double checking every thing one last time. If everything checks out, I can than star cutting all the slots to accommodate the stringers and the sponson ride pad and side chime spine supports. As pictured the beam edge has been cut and all the templated have been temporally placed to precheck fit. The motor mounts are in place to further help hold things in place. This project is going to be slow going, but will do my best to keep you all abreast, as thing progress. Thank You All and Enjoy the pics !!

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Nice job on the framing but let me throw out a reminder/word of caution. Since your engine is going to be mounted where frames 5, 6, and 7 are located, don't epoxy those frames in on the inside of the the engine bay walls. The center of those three frames will need to be removed and it's just easier to do so if you haven't added fillets of epoxy or glue blocks into that area. Something you MIGHT want to do is add glue blocks to the outside of the engine bay walls to re-enforce the joints at those three frames

 

[Wasted wages]

Something you MIGHT want to do is add glue blocks to the outside of the engine bay walls to re-enforce the joints at those three frames

I would do all four sides of the outside of the engine bay walls with triangle blocks. Top triangle can later be sanded to match the frames before the top decks are installed..

 

[brad nichols]

Looking good!! Takes a lot of time cutting by hand!

Brad

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I would do all four sides of the outside of the engine bay walls with triangle blocks. Top triangle can later be sanded to match the frames before the top decks are installed..

John is going to add stringers to where the top and bottom of the wings are glued to the sponson insides and engine bay walls as stated here:

Have four more formers templates to go and than to the task of double checking every thing one last time. If everything checks out, I can than star cutting all the slots to accommodate the stringers and the sponson ride pad and side chime spine supports. As pictured the beam edge has been cut and all the templated have been temporally placed to precheck fit.

 

[Wesleys Custom Graphics]

Awsome! So it looks like you are doing a solid build? (No removable canoes or wimgs) also, r u using a CMB motor? Will u b able to access the back sides of.the motor mounts?

 

[user 21992]

Thanks for your concerns and advice to all !! The engine bay will be addressed later down the line, as the framework continue, the first order of business before building, will be addressing the engine isolator mounting procedure that been used on the last two 1/6 Gas Scale I have build. Frist and foremost, all reinforcements will be done on the inside of the front Wing Air Ram area, some what in this order : A total of 1/4" plywood will be added the out side of the engine rails in the wing section, B. A 1/4-20 stainless T-nut, with lock-tite, then pull in too the engine rails isolat0r mounting holes. C. The engine bay will be covered in a layer of fiberglass. Thank You and Enjoy !!

 

[user 21992]

Hi Wes. sorry for the delayed response. The answer to the Isolator bolts is // no you will not be able to access the bolts. This hole project is !! fly by the seat of your pants. After a couple of Gas Scale build, I will be trying some different ideas as you all will see as the build continues. It's been a few weeks since posting anything, but rest assure it's coming alone petty nice. all the templates are done and working on all the slots and sponson spines. Will post soon,
HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL !!

 

[John Carlton]

Rock on Stitch. I am sure this will be a great hull

 

[user 21992]

Well, after the last post, I was sure the templates were going to come out petty close, WRONG !! So I decided to make a new set of drawing. Had way to many erased lines, that I was getting confused and I was getting cross-eyed, now, I have a nice clean set of drawings to work with.
Decided to cut out two hull frame kits at one time, and instead of cutting out templates, I now glue the drawings to a block size of Luan Utility Board. Then, I semi glued two layers of Okoume Plywood around the perimeter ( some are four layers ) and the same for the Luan with the drawing glued to the sandwich pieces, this makes much cleaner cuts. As you can see, the engine rails and inside sponsons are regular 5ply Plywood.
With the Holidays upon us. it will slow things up a bit and I will start building the hull a few days after this coming New Year.
Mary Christmas and a Happy New Year to all !!

After the first pic, I said, wow, that's just a pile of wood, so I added the one with the wood all spread out.
FUN CITY USA !!


Wanted to add on this last pic, after removing all the blue tape I separated the two frame kits and numbered all the bulkheads. Also, I had glued all five block size bulkheads that needed to be doubled before cutting out the templates. Enjoy

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

That looks incredible.

 

[Duke Mordja]

Looks good Stitch!

 

[MarkDanielsSr]

Very nice, thanks for posting. Frame and fit look fantastic and I am paying attention to all of the offered advice and concerns. Thanks again for this thread.

 

[user 21992]

Final Chapter, after unforeseen family issues, this will be my last post on the T-Plus Build. This project will be turned over to a Rip Tide club member that's very capable on finishing this project.

After the last post, I did attempt to finish a bit more, so, the turn fin bracket is done and started on the rear wing uprights in order to pre determine a strong and solid method of fastening. As you will see in the pics, this is the first time I have use ,090 ( 3/32" I think ) for the up-right wing stabs, the same method will fellow the top horizontal wing.

Want to thank all who have comment and my hope is that someone may take away something from this build. Thank You All !!

 

[DPeterson]

Those uprights are really something. Stitch is one hell of a boat builder. I'm extremely proud that he has done all the hard work on this and that he trust me with the finish steps. I'm not much of a picture taker but will see if I can't continue this build thread as I go.

Wes - we have one more J&G motor in the shop and the T-Plus will be set up with it.

Doug

 

[Wesleys Custom Graphics]

Those uprights are really something. Stitch is one hell of a boat builder. I'm extremely proud that he has done all the hard work on this and that he trust me with the finish steps. I'm not much of a picture taker but will see if I can't continue this build thread as I go.

Wes - we have one more J&G motor in the shop and the T-Plus will be set up with it.

Doug

Ah! U r hiding it from me or I would have stole it! I can't believe no one else will pick up the torch and start machining pistons

 

[Duke Mordja]

Stitch,

Great build so far. Sad to not see you finish it. The completion of the T-plus by Doug will be excellent. I am glad to see your hard work wont be shelved and you can enjoy watching Doug finish it.

If Doug can build a national champion Classic Thunderboat, I can only imagine how bad ass the 1/6th Scale will be.

We definitely need help figuring out the rear exhaust engine supply. They work so well in the scale boats. My J&G is an awesome engine in the U-10 Winston Eagle Lobster boat that Stitch built. Hopefully Jack will start making them again someday.

 

[user 21992]

In getting to know Doug, and seeing many of the RC Boats builds that show his craftmanship, I truly believe in his Capability's, in finishing the T-Plus, again thank you for picking up the challenge Doug.

Was not going to post from here on out, but received a personal e-mail from Chuck Mason, asking about the shape and gluing method for the sponson side Spray Rails, and though it was an important question, enough to address.

Newtons plans for T-Plus show only the shape of the Spray Rails and no explanation on how to execute the shape. As the pic shows to the right of the turn fin bracket area, is the slot location for a stringer ( or as Joe from Zipp, call it, a spine ). The spine is what makes part of the Spay Rails, for me it's simple // strong // and effective.
The degree ( or angle ) of the Spray Rail can be more aggressive, so is the width,

For the T-Plus, this is an important part of the build, not only for the turns but also in the straight's. So, because of motor location and the use of a solid straight shaft running at 5 degree ( looking to imitate the real Unlimited Hydro's ), the Spray Rails along with foam buoyancy and air flow under the wings and center of the hull section, it should help keep the front sponsons light on the water, even if it scrubs a little speed, will be using a pusher prop with no lift. Enjoy and Be Well !!

 

[Chuck Mason]

This is why I came to the forum, all of you are about the Build Craft as well as the Spirit of Competitiveness, Thank you for taking the time to post this Goodman, John. Comments regarding the Angle of Attack, the Dihedral and anhedral angles of the sponsons have been a real learning experience. I am impressed, the time and skill is a tribute to just how much you all invest into this sport. True passion for the build.
Thank you
C

 

[Rc painter]

Stitch is the best.......