Starter batteries.

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Don't use LIFE batteries. They don't 'deliver' a punch when a strong demand is put on them. Use LIFE for ignition and receiver. They stay charged forever.

My 24V starter runs on a 6S 4000 pack.
You do realize 99% of ALL lithium replacement batteries for motorcycles, ATV, UTV, golf carts, cars and trucks are all LiFe batteries ?

Battery Collection - Dakota Lithium Batteries

https://antigravitybatteries.com/
Even the Tesla EV is offering the LiFe instead of the Lithium Ion they had been using.
https://insideevs.com/news/575956/tesla-battery-chemistries-explained/
Moving to a 12 volt based starter pretty much cuts battery costs in half.
If using LiPo 6S packs are about double the cost of 3S and it doesn't need any more than 5000 mah.

Replace battery a couple times and the starter has paid for itself.

And you have half the weight and size of battery so if going cordless self-contained that is huge difference.

LiFe traditionally has a 400% lifespan over LiPo.
 
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You do realize 99% of ALL lithium replacement batteries for motorcycles, ATV, UTV, golf carts, cars and trucks are all LiFe batteries ?

Battery Collection - Dakota Lithium Batteries

https://antigravitybatteries.com/
Even the Tesla EV is offering the LiFe instead of the Lithium Ion they had been using.
https://insideevs.com/news/575956/tesla-battery-chemistries-explained/
Moving to a 12 volt based starter pretty much cuts battery costs in half.
If using LiPo 6S packs are about double the cost of 3S and it doesn't need any more than 5000 mah.

Replace battery a couple times and the starter has paid for itself.

And you have half the weight and size of battery so if going cordless self-contained that is huge difference.

LiFe traditionally has a 400% lifespan over LiPo.
Daniel, if my source is correct, the original 2 seat Tesla used A123 LiFe cells, 6,048 of them, maybe off a few numbers but close. I used those same cells in some of my giant scale rc planes.
John
 
I did what Bill Zuber and Aln Elzer suggested, replaced the lead acid batteries in my starter box for 2 x 3S Lipo's with a Dynatron. That way i can start it at 3S/11,1V for the smaller engines (.21) and for the bigger engines I use the 6S setup.

Make sure that C rating of the pack is sufficiënt. The Dynatron pulls about 100A, so Capacity of the pack in Ah x C rating shall be bigger then 100.
 
I did what Bill Zuber and Aln Elzer suggested, replaced the lead acid batteries in my starter box for 2 x 3S Lipo's with a Dynatron. That way i can start it at 3S/11,1V for the smaller engines (.21) and for the bigger engines I use the 6S setup.

Make sure that C rating of the pack is sufficiënt. The Dynatron pulls about 100A, so Capacity of the pack in Ah x C rating shall be bigger then 100.
This works great since the starter is the only weight your holding while starting. The lipolys reduce the weight of the stater box.
 
See also specs below for the dynatron. They suggest a power supply for 24V at 175A, so Ah x C should be around this number.
Sullivan.JPG
 
Didn't someone make a conversion kit for these starters a while back for the cordless batteries?
 
Finer Edge made a Makita 18 volt adapter.

Worked ok but pretty worthless for big nitro and gas engines.

Not sure if they are still making those. This may have been them. https://www.afineredgemfg.com/

Here is another,

Sullivan Dynatron Makita 18V Battery Adapter

For what it’s worth, I used a standard hi-tork (black and yellow) with the Makita 18v conversion to start my 101 the entire weekend at VooDoo. Don’t see why the dynatron wouldn’t work…
 
For what it’s worth, I used a standard hi-tork (black and yellow) with the Makita 18v conversion to start my 101 the entire weekend at VooDoo. Don’t see why the dynatron wouldn’t work…
The black and yellow standard model will actually have more torque than the dynatron at 18 volt because it actually is a straight 12 volt motor not a 12/24 volt motor so you take 12 volt motor and overdrive it with 18volt that increases the power considerably. That and the motor isn't loading all the amperage out of the Makita pack like the Dynatron does. They don't recommend running more than 12 volt on the yellow one.
I have used 24 on them before but didn't last too long. Stall it a few times at 24 volt and it smokes them. Two lawn tractor batteries deliver some amps and that was my battery setup for years.

I used the dynatron on my 1.01 with Makita and it would start it but not without slipping the belt and nursing it. Problem was it wouldn't start the gas very well at all so not being able to start both made the setup pretty useless for my purpose.

What do you think a 150 + amp load does to a Makita pack. ? Never designed for load approaching anything close to those amps especially if it is like a 4.0 or 5.0 pack. They are made for the loads of power tool motors and they do not draw 175 amps The connections in them are not rated for that for sure. Lock the rotor on that Dynatron and were talking 250 plus load is possible. The gas engines were stalling that setup.
 
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3s is more than enough..not sure why people need 6s , overkill,,you might spin more than your crank..
 
I'm used to 24 volts after many years . When you run 6 or more classes , 4 rounds, you need power for large engines .
A dynatron won’t work well at all on 3s. It doesn’t work well on 18v either.
The batts output needs to match what the motor is made for.
A 3s on a Daniel’s starter will out perform 6s on a dynatron. It’s about matching the voltage to the motor.
 
A dynatron won’t work well at all on 3s. It doesn’t work well on 18v either.
The batts output needs to match what the motor is made for.
A 3s on a Daniel’s starter will out perform 6s on a dynatron. It’s about matching the voltage to the motor.
Yes I'm used to the Kre style starter.
 
I'm too old school...

24v dynatron, tidewater handle, 2 - 12 volt gelcells switched by relay,, wired with fine stranded #10 wire and soldered terminals.. lasts all weekend and has the power to start most anything.
Recharges with a standard car battery charger..

Yes, it requires a box, it's a little heavy,
But... IT WORKS! It's the box everyone in the pits grab when their crap peter's out...

and I didn't have to spend a fortune putting it all together...
 
I'm too old school...

24v dynatron, tidewater handle, 2 - 12 volt gelcells switched by relay,, wired with fine stranded #10 wire and soldered terminals.. lasts all weekend and has the power to start most anything.
Recharges with a standard car battery charger..

Yes, it requires a box, it's a little heavy,
But... IT WORKS! It's the box everyone in the pits grab when their crap peter's out...

and I didn't have to spend a fortune putting it all together...
My boxes weigh a ton !!
 
I used a large sized marine battery box with two U1 lawn tractor batteries as my power supply for many years powering a power panel off just one and the 24 volt through 500 amp solenoid out to a model 4 Sullivan starter.

I eventually made the model 4 into a self contained cordless starter running 2 3S packs

Hvg1jqA.jpg


Custom fully machined motor I did up with ball bearings.
BgTpYYB.jpg

Dynatron running off a bunch of NiMh cells making up 24 volt.
q001gDy.jpg
 
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I am running a Model 4 off a 6S2P Li-ion pack I built using 18650 cells purchased loose and then assembled with a balancing connector. Enough oomph to start a CMB35rs and the better safety of Li-ion over lipo.
 
These are the handles I made up for my Dynatrons and have two Speedmaster setups as well . Going to convert the Speedmaster ones to the 6 S .
 

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