Scratch building rigger

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Roxyflash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
1,480
At the camp site for summer got a 10x12 shed I’m working out of.Based off a firefighter rigger plan angled sponson on the top side and squared the transom and rear shoes.Not much of a shop 8 inch disc sander table top bandsaw and hand tools.
 

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Nice job! Sometimes I wish I had a 10 x 12 open space in my shop to work in !! :)

How did you do your boom tube blocks in the tub? Bolted thru the bottom? Or anchors in the blocks? Are the booms adjustable with shims or just bolted down solid ?
 
The sponsons I used 1/8 inch plywood on the inside then I used 1/8 lite ply for a doubler then 1 inch foam then another 1/8 lite ply the boom tubes are super tight then another 1 inch foam used 1/2 inch carbon tube that was left over from my old eagle sg rigger days I used wood dowel rod inside the carbon tubes the turn fin spar I used aluminum flat stock inside the 1/8 doubler I bolted the boom tubes to bottom of tub there’s is some wiggle room on the rear tube for shims if need I also doubled the 5/8 boom tubes with 1/2 inch tube so it won’t crush when bolted down.I put the stuffing tube in tonite I’m planning on useing a Sullivan tank I hate i v bags.I have built a few fire fighter riggers in the past.I bought a envy cowl I’m going to use.Here’s a few more pictures plus a few firefighter riggers I have built
 

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Here’s a picture of the cowl I need to cut it to fit first time I marked it the carb was to close so I remarked it I hate fiberglass makes me itch I finished the stuffing tube I was a little off on the bulkhead so I cut a piece of plywood to cover it the slot on bottom is ok a little rusty on the fit been 10 years since I did one the screws for boom tubes I haven’t decided on counter sinking or use finishing washer.
 

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Fitting the cowl today ran into a issue with header flange old school design but the fittings are in the way .Need a different header flange.Anyone have any ideas on which one smaller the better.The tub isn’t 5 inches wide like 4 3/4 I used metric rubber mounts to keep it slim .Cant complain about the envy cowl it’s not really made for a firefighter rigger but have to admit it fits like a glove I used g10 made a tongue to fit the slot on the nose I’m planning on using some push and twist locks middle of cowl and possibly a magnet on the center rear of hatch I seen one zip kits did but on this rigger it would have to be mounted on the top of radio box lid do you think it would cause interference with radio gear?Heres some pictures
 

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I have 2 rare earth magnets holding on my Backlash cowl that are mounted just in front of the radio box, so maybe 3-4 inches from the receiver. I will say, however, that I run my antenna through the carbon fiber lid and into a short antenna tube. I’m old school in that I want that antenna OUT of the boat. I haven’t had one radio problem other than a switch going bad and the failsafe kicked in thinking battery power was gone, which it was. The Gizmo water cooled header has fittings to the back or front depending on which orientation you mount.
 
I used magnets on my backlash also I think I will do one above the stuffing tube in engine bay use a brace across inside the cowl I used medium hatch locks I should of used the small ones from zip kits I also ordered one of there exhaust small pro flange the cowl holds on nice just need some support on the tail end I don’t like o ring hatch hold downs
 

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I used magnets on my backlash also I think I will do one above the stuffing tube in engine bay use a brace across inside the cowl I used medium hatch locks I should of used the small ones from zip kits I also ordered one of there exhaust small pro flange the cowl holds on nice just need some support on the tail end I don’t like o ring hatch hold downs
I will use them if I have to but keep plenty of spares especially with nitro boats. The nitro eats right through them. Gas probably not as much
 
Came down with flu kicking my ass for a week finally got the tub painted single stage urethane jlg cream didn’t know if my little camp compressor would work but did manage spray a little then let it build used my small Mac touch up gun also painted the sponsons cowl and lids tonite will post pictures of them tomorrow
 

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Raydee nice to see one of my old builds I got some pictures of the rigger today when I did the cowl mounts I forgot to add a little clearance for the spring clips I need to flatten them some more puts a bulge in the cowl I also found some old school spark plug nuts that I screwed on top of the ny locks for rubber bands to hold tank down need to get some foam to surround the tank
 

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Those old school 16 Oz Sullivan tanks are great for riggers, they do have a slight V on the bottom, so they can rock side to side..

I cut up a dish sponge to shim the bottom of the tank to keep it leaned over on the fuel pickup side..

Then cut the sponge to wedge around the tank. It helps to soak up any water that may be bouncing around the bottom of the boat too...
 
Got the motor back in bought the smaller exhaust flange from zipkitts used some 90degree water fittings on the flange fits like a glove I bought a used zipkitts pipe from toying around the one I had was a ceramic coated steel pipe was heavy this is the early zip pipe the thinner one made a tapered stand off for a pipe mount.
 

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Got the motor back in bought the smaller exhaust flange from zipkitts used some 90degree water fittings on the flange fits like a glove I bought a used zipkitts pipe from toying around the one I had was a ceramic coated steel pipe was heavy this is the early zip pipe the thinner one made a tapered stand off for a pipe mount.
Let er rip!!!!
 
Got it rigged radio tested all that’s left is floatation in cowl sharpen prop grease shaft.Need to make a stand.I have to get motor running self mod 26.
 

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