M
Michael Mooers
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The wheels are spinning already. Any idea how much Resbond it would take to make a .90 sized pipe?
Resin for carbon tuned pipe?
- Thread starter jaxracer
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I've used a ceramic adhesive for light bulbs made by tsogosei in Japan.
I use forward and aft aluminum mandrel and bond them together in the middle either with a sleeve both halves go into or one tube overlapping the other.
The Tsogosei material is a pain to work with, I'm going to try it with your material and see how it works.
I also use shrink tape but it is very slow for the water base to dry out. Then the shells get any machining done and post cured
I use forward and aft aluminum mandrel and bond them together in the middle either with a sleeve both halves go into or one tube overlapping the other.
The Tsogosei material is a pain to work with, I'm going to try it with your material and see how it works.
I also use shrink tape but it is very slow for the water base to dry out. Then the shells get any machining done and post cured
dwilfong
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Well here goes nothing.
It is like cake mix when you get it. There is a blob of solid and then liquids in the bottle. it is hard to mix up. You have to use a screw driver and break it apart. Then shake it up good.
I will try it with no thinner first.
It spreads out nice and gets in every where with some rubbing.
I lay down a small piece of CF tape on some wax paper to do the test run.
then put some weight on it to replicate the shrink tube .
I will let it sit for 24 Hr then in the oven as it states on the bottle.
2hr at 150 then 4 hr at 392
you can help it dry quicker with some heat also.
But will not do that as I am using the wax form.
So 24hr air dry it is then I will see how it hold its form.
I will wrap a candle next with some of the CF sock then try and melt it out and do the complete post cure.
Got my finger crossed ....................LOL
It is like cake mix when you get it. There is a blob of solid and then liquids in the bottle. it is hard to mix up. You have to use a screw driver and break it apart. Then shake it up good.
I will try it with no thinner first.
It spreads out nice and gets in every where with some rubbing.
I lay down a small piece of CF tape on some wax paper to do the test run.
then put some weight on it to replicate the shrink tube .
I will let it sit for 24 Hr then in the oven as it states on the bottle.
2hr at 150 then 4 hr at 392
you can help it dry quicker with some heat also.
But will not do that as I am using the wax form.
So 24hr air dry it is then I will see how it hold its form.
I will wrap a candle next with some of the CF sock then try and melt it out and do the complete post cure.
Got my finger crossed ....................LOL
dwilfong
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Ok so I hit it with the heat gun at 125 for a few minutes as it is stated in the instructions on the bottle.
It helped set it up real nice.
You can cut it with scissors clean as **** at this state.
Now let it sit till tomorrow and then time to stick it in the oven.
At this point it will hold its shape.
Will see how strong it is after the oven baking.
So far so good.
dwilfong
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Heat from the oven.
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Dave, have you checked how it bonds to aluminum? I always used an acid etch on the aluminum, it was in a powder form an easy to store, just add water. Etching made for a much better bond.
John
John
dwilfong
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I will test that also before I make the pipe.
dwilfong
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Well the first test cure is done.
It is very brittle to say the least.
I will do a test cure with the sock that I will use and make sure it is coated thicker.
You can not play with it after the first dying set up when it is soft. If you brake the bond it will not refuse.
It is ceramic that is for sure.
I will recoat the test piece and see if a second layer helps with the structure.
The test piece is as thin as a potato chip so it is not a good test of what the finished product will be.
Will take some pre testing of curing procedures before I do the pipe that is for sure.
Also used some thinner after this second coat to smooth it all out.
Will try it with thinner mixed in next test.
It is very brittle to say the least.
I will do a test cure with the sock that I will use and make sure it is coated thicker.
You can not play with it after the first dying set up when it is soft. If you brake the bond it will not refuse.
It is ceramic that is for sure.
I will recoat the test piece and see if a second layer helps with the structure.
The test piece is as thin as a potato chip so it is not a good test of what the finished product will be.
Will take some pre testing of curing procedures before I do the pipe that is for sure.
Also used some thinner after this second coat to smooth it all out.
Will try it with thinner mixed in next test.
Last edited:
dwilfong
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Well I recoated the test piece on one side and put it threw a 24hr dying cycle then 2hr at 200 and 4hr at 392.
WOW this stuff is hard as ceramic.......................It is ceramic.................
It is brittle and will crack if you try and bend it. This may be because I did not do a good cure on the first test with it.
But I think it is just the nature of the beast. It cracks but dose not come apart.
Time to explore the matrix build up procedure some more.
This will be the next addition to the matrix.
https://ssnano.com/inc/sdetail/sili...UI9Mgo8K-UaSMMfUUJsBOVqWCW3vFz-hoCgNEQAvD_BwEDid some reading up on different types of ceramic matrix build ups and this is what will give it more flex and resistance to breaking.
This is what is used to make ceramic balls in bearings and other forms for spray welding and tig welding cups.
It has to be a strong matrix as well as High temp.
So time to build and test me a custom matrix...................
WOW this stuff is hard as ceramic.......................It is ceramic.................
It is brittle and will crack if you try and bend it. This may be because I did not do a good cure on the first test with it.
But I think it is just the nature of the beast. It cracks but dose not come apart.
Time to explore the matrix build up procedure some more.
This will be the next addition to the matrix.
https://ssnano.com/inc/sdetail/sili...UI9Mgo8K-UaSMMfUUJsBOVqWCW3vFz-hoCgNEQAvD_BwEDid some reading up on different types of ceramic matrix build ups and this is what will give it more flex and resistance to breaking.
This is what is used to make ceramic balls in bearings and other forms for spray welding and tig welding cups.
It has to be a strong matrix as well as High temp.
So time to build and test me a custom matrix...................
dwilfong
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OMG what a freaking pain in the you know what this testing crap is.
So where do I start.
Well the SiC powder mixed in very nice. Gave a gray hue to the mix.
Did a test with the tape and it set up and cured good. Not much different than the mix with out on the thin tape.
So I got a candle and some of the thick sock I will use and did a lay up with the SiC in it.
Then said WTF lest try the heat shrink on this........
Well that was a mess to say the least.
The heat shrink will not go small enough for the stinger end and the wax started to melt trying to get all I could out of the shrink.
So threw that on the floor in disgust.
So the next day I said WTF lets just cut this shrink off and see what I got.
A mess is what I got........LOL
So I threw that in the oven to run a cure on it and when it came out it was as hard as a rock.
I could stand on it.............
So did a test run of the machinable wax to test the melting point. It was still solid at 200F
So the first cure at 200 should hold is shape good.
Note do not leave the wax in the oven at 292F to long it will smoke you out of the house.
The wife was at work to day..................LOL
Conclusion is will give it a try this week. It is strong very strong.
The only question is will the bond on the aluminum hold up with all the vibration.
Only testing will tell.
P.S.
I think this would work killer if it was made in 2 parts like what was posted earlier then bonded together.
But I am all in on this so wax it will be.
So where do I start.
Well the SiC powder mixed in very nice. Gave a gray hue to the mix.
Did a test with the tape and it set up and cured good. Not much different than the mix with out on the thin tape.
So I got a candle and some of the thick sock I will use and did a lay up with the SiC in it.
Then said WTF lest try the heat shrink on this........
Well that was a mess to say the least.
The heat shrink will not go small enough for the stinger end and the wax started to melt trying to get all I could out of the shrink.
So threw that on the floor in disgust.
So the next day I said WTF lets just cut this shrink off and see what I got.
A mess is what I got........LOL
So I threw that in the oven to run a cure on it and when it came out it was as hard as a rock.
I could stand on it.............
So did a test run of the machinable wax to test the melting point. It was still solid at 200F
So the first cure at 200 should hold is shape good.
Note do not leave the wax in the oven at 292F to long it will smoke you out of the house.
The wife was at work to day..................LOL
Conclusion is will give it a try this week. It is strong very strong.
The only question is will the bond on the aluminum hold up with all the vibration.
Only testing will tell.
P.S.
I think this would work killer if it was made in 2 parts like what was posted earlier then bonded together.
But I am all in on this so wax it will be.
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Rough up the aluminum good before hand with some 40 - 80 grit.... should help the bond...
dwilfong
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Well gave it the old college try I did.
What a Fing mess...............
The problem is the pipe has to much of a transition from the center to the stinger.
Not one piece of CF tube would do it.
It may work on smaller pipes with one piece for sure but on a two or 3 piece setup no way.
Also the inter face with the aluminum was way to hard to control.
I am out of time to take this any further right now.
Will get back to it later in life.
What a Fing mess...............
The problem is the pipe has to much of a transition from the center to the stinger.
Not one piece of CF tube would do it.
It may work on smaller pipes with one piece for sure but on a two or 3 piece setup no way.
Also the inter face with the aluminum was way to hard to control.
I am out of time to take this any further right now.
Will get back to it later in life.
