Pros and Cons

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Richard Hartley

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Oct 15, 2012
Messages
564
Please let me know what you think with regards to radio switch in lid or out the side of the tub.
Talking Dubro style switch.
Richard
 

Mark Anderson

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Joined
Nov 22, 2002
Messages
626
I wouldn't go through the side of the tub. Either through the lid or through a bulkhead usually into the bait box. I have seen a 90 hydro hop hard enough to turn the switch off that was through the lid on a Dubro mount. These days I prefer latching toggle switches.
 

dr gary turner

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Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
2,370
Richard, I have done it both ways
If on the lid, I bend the Dubro pull push shaft just enough to make a little difficult to pull it out.
PUSHED IN IS THE ON POSITION

Mounting on the side, it is easy to bump the switch when traveling against something or bump it on carrying the boat and the switch is left on and run a battery down

If the switch is mounted above the rear sponson it affords some protection from bumping the switch on

BTW ANOTHER SWITCH ISSUE:
The Dubro switch, the square box that goes over the switch knob, will hang up on the mounting screws and does not go FULLY ON.

I file small notched in the square piece so the it definitely clears the mounting screws.
 

Ray Sametz

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Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2003
Messages
6,980
Richard, I have done it both ways
If on the lid, I bend the Dubro pull push shaft just enough to make a little difficult to pull it out.
PUSHED IN IS THE ON POSITION

Mounting on the side, it is easy to bump the switch when traveling against something or bump it on carrying the boat and the switch is left on and run a battery down

If the switch is mounted above the rear sponson it affords some protection from bumping the switch on

BTW ANOTHER SWITCH ISSUE:
The Dubro switch, the square box that goes over the switch knob, will hang up on the mounting screws and does not go FULLY ON.

I file small notched in the square piece so the it definitely clears the mounting screws.
I also open the switch and fill with dielectric grease to stop corrosion. Lexan lid radio boxes can sometimes attract moisture under lid. Best to keep covered and out of the sun before your heat.
 

Walt Barney

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Joined
Dec 3, 2003
Messages
2,876
I have just completed a new boat and I took the switch and put it in the radio box lid with the 2 screws, but cut off the black switch lever to be even with the lid, it fits over the rudder servo, I will turn it on and off with just my finger nail and cover it it with a piece of tape. I also take the switch apart and put Corr-x in it.
Walt Barney
 

Mike Cathey

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Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
1,072
Since you cannot visually inspect the inner workings of the switch for corrosion I replace them all annually after dosing the new switches with Corrosion X. No switch, no failsafe. $6-7 bucks is worth the peace of mind.
 

Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,261
Richard,

Six words.....

Buss bar. Buss bar. Buss bar.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 

Grimracer

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Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Messages
8,302
Brad.. I have seen them fail too.. In The wire attachment and install methods vary. The act of sliding the bar in place is the easy part.. the rest.. lends itself to many possible issues.

Grim
 

Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,261
Mike,

What is there to fail that isn't present with other MFR'd switches?

I had a couple of solder joints let go where the wire was soldered to the screw, but, once I resolved what caused this, there's literally nothing that can fail without outside impetus.

The buss bar switch I have been installing in my boats are 100% failproof. Yes..... 100%. Zero reservation.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 

Grimracer

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Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Messages
8,302
Outside impetus, Improper use, multi part installation.. and Wire failure... you nailed them all.. and yep.. now I have herd of two failing.

At the end of the day.. I like them too.. BUT.. just to many "Things to go wrong" for such a "Simple" device!

Grim
 

Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,261
Mike,

You just named a handful of issues that are NOT "switch failure". Meaning, these issues are present in literally ANY installation. If not properly addressed, they will bite you in the arse regardless. Obviously, installing a buss bar switch will not prevent a wire leading to the switch from breaking or a connector from dislodging.

The buss bar installation eliminates ALL issues related to the switch itself, which is exactly 100% of all "switch failure" causes. Exactly 100% of boxes of sticks that have come back to the shore, where a faulty switch was found to be the cause, would have been prevented with a buss bar switch install.

And, by "outside impetus", I am referring to things like getting T-boned and having the buss bar forcibly removed from the boat. Something I've never actually seen, but can imagine would render the switch pretty much useless anyway.

I'll try and get some pics of my set-up when I get home.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 

Grimracer

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Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Messages
8,302
I did not say they were.. My point is.. there are a hand full of "things" that can be introduced into this idea that are NOT present in a OEM switch.

Thats all..

Grim
 

Brad Christy

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Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,261
Mike,

Such as....? Be specific. Provide details.

I'm not just trying to be argumentative. I'm curious what failures you've seen with a well built buss bar switch that are not inherently present with an OEM switch. Others may find your observations helpful in working out the kinks in what I've determined to be a bulletproof concept.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 

Grimracer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Messages
8,302
I have an opinion based on now to switches failing.. Heck... others might like your switch, I dont care... so to me.. home run as long as you are playing boats.

My opinion is just that.. no more..no less racers.. choose what you want!

Grim
 

Wasted wages

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,062
This is what I have done for years with no failures ever.

I use the little blue single pole toggle switch from radio shack or electronics stores.

Solder and heat shrink the two wires onto the switch.

Over the body of the switch I heat shrink a large piece of tube about 1" long. Shrink it down over the wires to about 1/2 of it's original diameter. let cool.

Once cool, I fill the open end of the heat shrink with "Shoe Goo" ( NOT silicone ) this encapsulates the wires to prevent vibration from breaking the wires at the solder joint.

Install switch as any other switch. once installed, I use a dubro pushrod seal over the entire toggle and seal the tip with a dab of shoe goo. I do not put the toggle thru the pushrod hole. but either way works...

Never had one fail !!
 

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