Pipe Hardness? Hard Anodize? Or Powder Coat?

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shoboat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2002
Messages
7,407
Boaters,

I know we talked about this topic awhile back, but I could not find it.

Anyone else play with hard anodizing their pipes for better performance?

We used to black powder coat them a few years ago. Anybody in this business?

Anyone Care To Share Your Knowledge With Us?

Mark Sholund
 
They do on 1/8th scale buggy pipes for abrasion resistance. It doesn't increase the performance any over a pipe that isn't hard anodized. If you don't run your boats into the bank, abrasion shouldn't be an issue.
 
Mark,

I have had pipes black powdercoated with good results. Hold heat better and adds a bit to wall thickness. I just went to a local powdercoater in FT Myers and his minimum was $100 to do a pipe or a batch. Got 8 pipes done in a batch and a few more wouldn't affect the price much. So gather a few friends pipes and I am sure there are more powdercoaters up your way than at the end of the trail down here. I have wondered about anodizing especially on the inside of the pipe for reflection and then powdercoating the outside for heat. If you did 10 at a time your cost per pipe gets low. Can't see any reason anodizing would hurt performance?

Mic
 
For what its worth.... the late Ron Paris used to put a hard coating on the car pipes he sold. Said to increase "ring" of the pipe. Richard D
 
Fellas,

I have had quite a few of my pipes: aprox.(50)treated

in quite a few different ways, so I guess I better get

to the lake and get busy testing for Hobart. I know the

hard anodizing on an A/B parabolic worked real well on

the 45 hydro @ 8.5" in length.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund
 
Fellas,

I have had quite a few of my pipes: aprox.(50)treated

in quite a few different ways, so I guess I better get

to the lake and get busy testing for Hobart. I know the

hard anodizing on an A/B parabolic worked real well on

the 45 hydro @ 8.5" in length.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

There is a spray on ceramic coating for car pistons. It is used to keep the heat off the piston crown on NO2 and turbo eng. Have some on hand. You spray it on and bake in the oven.

Tech Line Coatings http://www.techlinec...ance/index.html

Thy have lots of different coating for ex systems. All you can do at home.

David
 
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mark,,, if you look on the net,,,harbor frieght and some other places...you can now buy powder coating guns and powders extremely cheap....if all your doing is small parts you could use one of them counter ovens...or better yet...they have small rotisery counter ovens... black powder is cheap...and the gun kit is for sure cheap,,,but it works quite well..my buddy bought a setup and stuck an old kitchen oven in his garage.the issue is the cleaning part...the part must be prepped properly for good adhesion,,sand blasting the part usually nets the best results

..just a thought.....

Alden
 
Hey Mark,

Your post reminded me of a early post (like maybe 03,04) at JRCBD:

Andy Brown had three identical pipes, all good but one really lit the motor up.

And he was trying to figure out why, All the guru's of the time were posting,

Norm Doerr, Jim Irwin, Seems like Frank O. and maybe Marty too.

They did check them for hardness and if memory serves me it turned out,

The softer of the three pipes was the hot dog.

Might be worth a Email to Andy, See if he recalls any more info,

Gene
 
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There are two areas the pipe material could make some difference with, heat and pipe shape. The surface emissivity limits the amount of heat transfer due to radiational cooling. With 1.0 being perfect (black body) emissivity anodized aluminum is 0.85 and unfinished is 0.05, and as color of the anodized finish makes little impact on emissivity since most radiational heat loss occurs at wavelengths higher than visible light. So the anodized pipe may transfer more heat out, and this is not the best thing for our application. Keeping the heat inside the pipe works best, or so some of the experts have told us.

Most of this information is based on heatsinks, and our pipe is not really there for this reason. To sum it up (heatsink builders) "As a thumb rule, if anodize is not required for aesthetic or corrosion protection, we suggest it only for small, open finned heat sinks in natural convection."

I guess the anodizing would harden the pipe so it may hold its shape a bit better, but at the same time the pipe length change would be the same over a non-anodizied pipe. The pipe would be "tuffer" to hold up to the abuse of handling the boats, crashes, and even the starter hitting the pipe.

Paul
 
I remember back in the days when John Ackerman would stuff his 80 boat he said the pipe would get better every time.Maybe Marty can chine in her on this one.

I heat my pipes in the oven at 450 deg for 8 hours and have a ice cold bucket there and when I would remove the pipe form the oven I would put in the ice cold water.This changes the ring on the pipe.

Dave Roach
 
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Ring it on your radar gun.. the pipe that rings the most MPH is the fastest pipe.

Grim
 
Hey Norm,

If ya see this, chime in here...... ;)

He might have more of tha details on the subject,

Gene
 
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