My 1st Build (SLR Missile Thunderboat ZippKit)

[Chuck Mason]

With My introduction from the other Thread I believe it is time to start.

After reading through them a few Hundred times and a few coins the pieces come together.

Looks like I have my work CUT out for me. I will post more once I set up a hard surface to place the Jig. It is suggested to use 3/4 to 7/8 MDF
as a Strong FLAT base. I went down to my local Lumber store here in my lil town as I want to support Them rather than the Giant X X X X X places.
Besides the 45 min I spent hanging out and sharing the project with the owner adds to the Build IMHO.
C

 

[RobertDoak]

Chuck...this boat is a snap to build...the biggest concern is the top sponson sheeting...it requires a compound bend...other than that...a joy to build...

 

[user 21992]

Note first pic: 1" reinforcement inside bottom of hull center seam == 1/8 x 3/4" reinforcement around front of nose == also, I like to use a lot of foam for buoyancy.

 

[user 21992]

Sorry, here's a better pic of the bottom hull planking at the front nose.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Don F called it the Frankenstein method for the sponson tops. Worked for me.

 

[brad nichols]

Looks good!

Brad

 

[Rich Jones]

With My introduction from the other Thread I believe it is time to start.
View attachment 298799
After reading through them a few Hundred times and a few coins the pieces come together.
View attachment 298800View attachment 298801View attachment 298802
Looks like I have my work CUT out for me. I will post more once I set up a hard surface to place the Jig. It is suggested to use 3/4 to 7/8 MDF
as a Strong FLAT base. I went down to my local Lumber store here in my lil town as I want to support Them rather than the Giant X X X X X places.
Besides the 45 min I spent hanging out and sharing the project with the owner adds to the Build IMHO.
C

Sweet! Good Luck and Enjoy the Build!

 

[Rich Jones]

Don F called it the Frankenstein method for the sponson tops. Worked for me.

That’s brilliant!

 

[Chuck Mason]

John B Thank you
What a great idea to solve the nose issue
So far So good, I did myself some more home werk about the nose and sponson decking as well, Seems there was a chance of separation unless reinforcement is done. (Good to Know)
I was able to get my Jig set up and started pre-fitting all the Bulkheads so I can see the way it fits together.. I still have a list of things to get before I open the Epoxy but that list is getting shorter.


I am a long way from setting up for the Deck work but it is great to know you all are out there with experience to share. Thank you ALL. Than You Ray S. that looks like a great plan.
Has anyone ever mounted the 260 Zen on the hull bottom with a reinforced area rather than across the two engine stringers sides?
Yep I was watching the YouT. Videos of Scott's? (M5 Performance) who talks about it on newer style Hydro. I am just asking?
Would the lower Center of Gravity be helpful

 

[osracer]

John B Thank you
What a great idea to solve the nose issue
So far So good, I did myself some more home werk about the nose and sponson decking as well, Seems there was a chance of separation unless reinforcement is done. (Good to Know)
I was able to get my Jig set up and started pre-fitting all the Bulkheads so I can see the way it fits together.. I still have a list of things to get before I open the Epoxy but that list is getting shorter.

View attachment 299152View attachment 299153
I am a long way from setting up for the Deck work but it is great to know you all are out there with experience to share. Thank you ALL. Than You Ray S. that looks like a great plan.
Has anyone ever mounted the 260 Zen on the hull bottom with a reinforced area rather than across the two engine stringers sides?
Yep I was watching the YouT. Videos of Scott's? (M5 Performance) who talks about it on newer style Hydro. I am just asking?
Would the lower Center of Gravity be helpful

The only way you can get the engine much lower than using the stock Zipp mounts is to do a belly pan. The boat is a great boat when built to the plans. It is fast and stable. Unless you are a very serious racer just build it according to the plans and you will be very happy with it.

 

[Rich Jones]

The only way you can get the engine much lower than using the stock Zipp mounts is to do a belly pan. The boat is a great boat when built to the plans. It is fast and stable. Unless you are a very serious racer just build it according to the plans and you will be very happy with it.

Yeah learn from this boat, I agree! The Zipp Thunderboat kits are not super expensive so if you want to do another down the road and play with engine placement, the mod you discuss wouldn’t be THAT hard to do. I actually did it on an 1/8 scale and put the mounts on the engine well sides still but used drop down mount rails.

 

[Chuck Mason]

So here I am so far,
I have made sure to pre-fit, check, align and recheck the bulkheads. They are perpendicular (90) to the JIG, and square to the Stringers. I dont think there is an isosceles left to right but if there was I would have checked that. One thing is for sure the learning curve is in full tilt epoxy.
NOTE to self, mix only what you need.
Here are a few pics
1st the Bulkheads

The right tool and my go-to so far is this degree finder and the square.
Once the bulkheads were rechecked and dry I fitted the stringers.
NOTE: too much epoxy equals sanding..... A LOT....

It is the Inner chines and the outer chines that had me a bit vexed until I reread the instructions that clearly show the sanding and beveled edge of the Chines, spray rails and forward non trips.

I have noticed the Nose angle starts to rise at the #3 bulkhead and I was interested on what you all expected this to be?
you think they are the same at the stringers left to right as well as the laminated engine rails? (After cleaning up epoxied joints and a ton of sanding)
Before the bottom is permanently placed I could use some advice. Well the mailman is knocking and he has more goodies for the build. Thank you all, Your help is greatly appreciated. C

 

[Chuck Mason]

Thank You Post Man !
https://scale-3d.com/productsThe Engine and driver kits are of very nice quality and I even received 3 different wheels and the seat-back.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

You say you need advice, what are your questions?

 

[Rich Jones]

First of all, you are right about the epoxy, you don’t want too much at this point. Enough to glue the joints and wipe away the excess before it cures. I like to tack up with some thick CA and accelerator. Squeeze some in the joint. Let it run in for a sec and then wipe. Then spray it and it hardens. The strength comes later when you go over all the seams and joints with epoxy before the decks go on. Then you seal the rest of the wood with thinned epoxy ( I use denatured alcohol) by brushing on like polyurethane, letting sit for 10 min or so and then wiping off the excess with paper towels. On your angle question, I’m not sure. What I will say is that your kit is LASER cut, uses location tabs, etc… and if you follow the instructions it would be hard to build it anything but correct and square. Lay the bottom on there. It should meet up with each bulkhead without too much coaxing. Make sure to use a block sander to true up your surface front to back and side to side. I use an aluminum bar that I use for leveling guitar frets and I stick on 80 grit with spray adhesive.

 

[Rich Jones]

Thank You Post Man !
https://scale-3d.com/productsThe Engine and driver kits are of very nice quality and I even received 3 different wheels and the seat-back.
View attachment 299419

I assembled and painted one of his Allison kits over the summer. Use thick CA, have a razor knife on hand for scraping seams, and get some of that wallboard filler that’s pink and turns white when dry. He recommends wallboard filler to fill in the print lines. I used Rustoleum 2x primer and paint.

 

[Chuck Mason]

SO things were going great on my build and then I got to to the Chines and Spray rails
I set up both sides at the same time and everything fit so I mixed my epoxy and assembled
both sides somehow the position shifted WAY off... Grrrrr I should have used more CLAMPS
Now both the Non-Trips and the Sponson Ride pads will not be accurate. I did sand one side to see if I could get close BUT the degree of ANGLE is not right.

The boat is in the jig, on MDF that is 100% at Zero Degrees the bulkheads and bottom are accurate at 90 to the JIG.
If I can get the Degree of angle port to starboard and forward to aft I should be able to get the Ride-Pads right
I know the Crew at Zipp are amazing at helping out and I may end up cutting the pieces off and either making my own or getting a few pieces from them.
What angles would you use, or what would YOU do to Correct this Here is the area of My NEwBe Mistake.

As always all constructive suggestions are Appreciated.

 

[Rich Jones]

Don’t cut it apart just yet. See if you can take a heat gun ( the one I use was like 10.00 at Harbor Freight) and heat up all those joints and use clamps to try to massage that piece into place. Like on the back part that’s sticking up 1/4 in. Get a clamp on there and get some moderate pressure on it then hit it with the heat gun for a bit. As you’re doing that, increase the force on the clamp more as you go. Try the same with the other joints. Heat it all up evenly to soften the epoxy around the whole part.

 

[Chuck Mason]

Don’t cut it apart just yet. See if you can take a heat gun ( the one I use was like 10.00 at Harbor Freight) and heat up all those joints and use clamps to try to massage that piece into place. Like on the back part that’s sticking up 1/4 in. Get a clamp on there and get some moderate pressure on it then hit it with the heat gun for a bit. As you’re doing that, increase the force on the clamp more as you go. Try the same with the other joints. Heat it all up evenly to soften the epoxy around the whole part.

Thats a smart Play, I can try that tonight,
Thank you

 

[Chuck Mason]

FYI:
I let Zipp know my planz, and even with fix-in what I did they still said this. . . .

Zippkits Support
Tue 1/11/2022 2:20 PM

I will ship you the parts. Just have to fire up this poor lonely laser...
Thank You,
Joe Petro
New Product Development
JMP Hobby Group
Now that is what I call Customer Care ! Outstanding Group over there in Florida.
A great place to get my stuff.