Krylon rattle can primer??

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

K F Wheeler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Messages
406
I know I want to use Krylon paint on my fiberglass boat. But thinking I want to do a thin primer just to seal up. And find any imperfections. I know the less paint the less weight. Any suggestions as to what primmer? Just use their white and skip a separate primer? More concerned with the bottom after all the sanding I've done and STILL have to do. Will do white when I'm satisfied. Final color for the bottom. And as a base coat on top side before other colors. Any comments ideas/thoughts are welcome. Thanks. Ken Wheeler
 
The rustoleum and Krylon dont like to mix...i would recommend staying with one brand if doing rattle cans....as far as the bottom...if its a white gel coat....just leave it white...
the top of the boat is where the eye candy is..the only time I actually paint the bottom of my boats is if its a wood boat....but a primer on the top side is a good idea...krylon makes a sandable filler primer that sounds like somthing that fits your needs...
 
It's all fiberglass and two part epoxy. Along with micro balloons... Ken
Then you may want to primer the bottom also....then block sand....are you familiar with a guide coat ?....its a very light dusting of a darker color only as a contrast while block sanding to locate any low spots...with rattle cans...its all about the drying time...being a primer that will be mostly removed from sanding the drying is not a major issue...but also I would not use a filling primer as my final substrate before painting....there is a non sanding primer that is used to even out the overall color tones to make a uniform surface to apply your color coat...remember....if your top colors are to be light...use a white primer...if the colors are dark...use a gray primer...for very dark heavy colors there is also a real dark primer....almost black but not totally...
 
I'd forgotten the guide coat trick! Got a few places that will benefit with that trick! I always paint the bottom of my boats white. Makes it easier for the other drivers to see the boat if it ends wrong side up. Going to stick with a Krylon primer. Less chance of a bad reaction between paints.
Planning on a paint scheme similar to the Miss Renault. Yellow and white with black pin stripe. Just started looking for pin stripe tape. My two previous sources no longer carry it! Only local auto paint supply shop up and closed without my permission!
I thank you guys for your thoughts and comments. I may be old and stubborn... But that doesn't mean I can't learn! Ken
 
Ken...learning is something I really enjoy doing...and trust me I say " I really messed a lot of stuff up" I mean it....rattle can painting has changed a lot over the years...
the pin striping...yes you can clear over vinyl...
and I also cut my own pinstripes from rolls of vinyl in the color of my choice...maybe not the smartest thing....but I'm kinda cheap in some areas...anyway enjoy your project remember with rattle cans....less is better...and alway give the paint plenty of time to dry....i do mean plenty of time....keep us updated with some project pics....👍
 
I have the Zipp tunnel and have painted the cowl with epoxy. Cowl was sanded any clean with lacquer thinner and base colour was applied. Taped off for trim and when trim tape was pulled the base came with it. I see a lot of people are using Krylon is this the best to use on the cowl? The rest of the boat came out fine. I did run into a problem with 2K urethan clear fast dry that was applied to the tub first, it didn't dry. It was not fun scraping it off!! Ground the can open and found the canister didn't puncture. This has not been a good painting experience but I will not use the urethan again!!

Brad
 
Good, reason I asked is I've had trouble with primers causing paint lifting problems before.

I've gotten away from using them at all on boats... they cause more problems than they solve..
Sounds like your finish may have been too slick and paint didn't grip.... how long did you let it dry before taping it ?
 
That is what I was thinking it stuck to the underside of the cowl nose OK and it was finished with #180 but looking at most of the posts people are using Kryion so I will pick some up and try it. The paint sat 3 days in an 80 degree shop. What do you think of the motor Frank?

Brad
 
Hey guys.
Still working on filling divots and seams. Filled a lot. Going to have a LOT of sanding to do!! Hope I only have one or two to rework. As much as I want this done!!! I may let it sit a few days just to let the epoxy dry out more. Even though I usually let epoxy dry a couple days before sanding. I will tell you now, if the paint job doesn't come out half way decent... With all the work I've done so far... I don't expect show car finish. Just something I'm not ashamed of!!!!
My other Sport 40's I painted in the past were tolerable AT BEST!!
 
Doing wood boats often...I like to prime after sealing and use rust-olleum 2x ultra cover. It fills and doesn't fail with other rattle can paints. I like to use giggly can lacquer then clear with auto clear.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top