jae 12g paint help

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chris armstrong

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2010
Messages
52
Hi all

After being out of boats for about 5 yrs now as i had gon over to the dark side and got into planes.

so, 5 yrs on i had the need for speed and purchased a jae 12g kit.

The thing went together real well and i am excited i will have a quickish boat in a small package.

I need some help on painting the thing.. Pref done at as little cost possible.

i will be blending 3 colours.

How can i do it?

I was thinking about primeing the hull and then painting

Realistically, i would love a way to be able to spray it myself out of spray cans.

Can you boys please share a couple of secrets and help me finish it off.. i will supply pics too.

An idea i had was to prime the boat, then spray with cheap spray cans and then use finish cure over the lot.. the only concern i have is what sort of finish will i get? im not after the shiny'st boat on the water, but i do want a nice finish.

i need to know what i can prime it with?? the instructions say prime it and then wet sand.. i dont want to use wrong primer and it is not waterproof when i sand it. what primer should i use (in a can pref).. another question is if i do as described in the above and paint after prim with cheap cans, how do i eliminate the finish cure from running.. i guess the question is how can i evenly apply finish cure?

ur help is much appreciated

i have built gelcoat/glass boats straight out of the mould but this is my first ply boat and first rigger...
 
Hi all

After being out of boats for about 5 yrs now as i had gon over to the dark side and got into planes.

so, 5 yrs on i had the need for speed and purchased a jae 12g kit.

The thing went together real well and i am excited i will have a quickish boat in a small package.

I need some help on painting the thing.. Pref done at as little cost possible.

i will be blending 3 colours.

How can i do it?

I was thinking about primeing the hull and then painting

Realistically, i would love a way to be able to spray it myself out of spray cans.

Can you boys please share a couple of secrets and help me finish it off.. i will supply pics too.

An idea i had was to prime the boat, then spray with cheap spray cans and then use finish cure over the lot.. the only concern i have is what sort of finish will i get? im not after the shiny'st boat on the water, but i do want a nice finish.

i need to know what i can prime it with?? the instructions say prime it and then wet sand.. i dont want to use wrong primer and it is not waterproof when i sand it. what primer should i use (in a can pref).. another question is if i do as described in the above and paint after prim with cheap cans, how do i eliminate the finish cure from running.. i guess the question is how can i evenly apply finish cure?

ur help is much appreciated

i have built gelcoat/glass boats straight out of the mould but this is my first ply boat and first rigger...
Hello Chris, 1st thing to do before you prime and paint your boat is to seal the wood. For the tank and engine bay, i use a good quality slow cure epoxy. West Systems or MAS are two that i have used. I like to do two coats, sanding between coats. You can use the same method for the exterior of your boat. Klass Kote makes a two part epoxy clear that can be brushed or sprayed on to do the exterior sealing. www.klasskote.com Do not prime and paint before you seal the wood 1st. Keep all your running surface edges sharp as you can. Sanding blocks work well for this. Klasskote primer and paint can be used after you seal your boat. Klasskote is fuel proof. Hope this helps. Richard D
 
I would second the KK as well.I have had good success with it.I find the colors a little limited but you should be able to find what you need.It is easy to mix and i sprayed it as a first timer and it was pretty easy.
 
I like auto primer and touch up colours from the spray cans, tons of colours to choose from, Then I spray 2 part Dupont Nason automotive clear coat over everything, completely fuel proof and almost as tough as epoxy.

I seal the inside of the hull with slow cure epoxy, do the same on the outside but thin the epoxy with alcohol so it really penetrates, 2 coats on the outside before priming.

Used to use K&B epoxy paint back in the day, hated that stuff!
 
Chris, I'm in the process of painting my son's JAE .12. Started last night. I'm using luster Kote, started out by using resin on the hull to seal it. All of the above advice is good. Remember a couple of things: #1 After resining hull and after you sand it smooth - use 600 wet sand in under water, this aides in cleaning out the pores of the resin(and gets it even smoother), then take a mild detergent in the water and wash the piece(i.e. Sponson), then rinse & let air-dry. This will remove finger oils & removes the static electricity build-up during the sanding process. #2 When using Any spray-can paints - Don't mix & match!! Follow thru with the same brand all-the-way-through. (i.e. don't use Rustoleum primer with Luster Kote paint, or Luster Kote paint with Rustoleum Clear). You'll have problems if you do. #3. When using any kind of cheaper paint, they all like to run, Use Gravity to your advantage.. Example: I'm painting my son's sponsons right now, and what I've done is put the boom-tubes in the sponsons and paint the top sides only, using a very light coat, rotating the booms to the opposite side. Do this after the first coat tacks-up. No runs!!. Remember, if you sand with 600 between coats, remember to use the detergent afterwards and let air dry. :)
 
Chris, do all you can to keep the weight down. The .12 boats are affected by extra weight much more than bigger boats.

Glenn
These boats are very weight sentive. Dont prime it!! That adds more weight.. Here what I was told to do.. Put one coat of epoxy on the out side then razor blade it and hit it with 500 grit paper and red scotch bright pad.. then paint it.. my new light weight.12 will be airbrushed painted to save on paint weight... My new light weight .12 is alittle over 1/2 pound lighter then my zippkit .12 JAE.. If your doing base coat clear coat. Just put on two coats of clear. I've used automotive paints on my boats.. My jae was rattle can with dupi-color and toped off with urethane clear. the pic is my first jae..
 
a system i'm trying this year to save weight is as follows: seal only the areas that will not be painted & see fuel with epoxy as has been explained. the rest of the hull & radio box i'm using sanding sealer (deft brand from lowes). it is a clear lacquer based primer sealer. soaks in well, sands like primer. then paint & clear with 2 part automotive clear, or clear only, depending on what you want. will save weight & time & effort, not having to deal with epoxy. i have tested it on scrap wood by itself, water does not soak through it. fills the grain well, allowing less paint & clear needed for a smooth finish. also, if you want to stain your hull instead of painting, it will seal the stain, allowing clear to bond well. worked very well on a dumas hot shot i built for my wife. she wanted a stain, instead of paint. couldn't get anything fuel proof to bond to the stain, epoxy & clears fish eyed, peeled or just wouldn't even set up. used sanding sealer, issue solved! will not work over oil based stain, you will need to use latex (water based) stain.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
wow, so many replies

Thanks Guys!!

Ok so i went to a paint shop today and told the guy what i was doing.

He said that 2 coats of finish cote on the inside should be fine (im not painting the inside

On the outside, he said to give it a good coat of finish cure.

Once that goes off, block sand it and then use acrylic primer.

Blocksand once primer is flat

prime and block again if desired finish is not achieved

Paint boat using any style of spraypaint (im sticking to the same brands)

once this is dry and to the desired effect, clear coat with acrylic. This should keep it fuelproof and fairly waterproof.

What do you guy's think?

I know that KlassKote is the best however by the time i buy 3 or 4 colours, it will start to get expensive.

I have a lot of bsi Finish cure... This should keep the tub n sponsons waterproof?

Should i do 2 cotes of finishcure on the outside before painting?

Im not after the fastest boat on the water but i do want to try and keep the weight down.

If their is any chance that 1 coat of finish wont seal the boat properly, i will use 2. The last thing i want is water getting into the ply, even if it meens a little weight penalty.

I scene the razorblade thing here on another forum.. Am i correct in saying "scrape the blade at 90 degrees to the finish"?

Boys, want to thank everyone for their input.. it is much appreciated.

I have built a few 45 tunnels, and even pulled a few gas boats from the mould.. but these were all gell/ fubreglass.

I have no idea about ply so really appreciate your trouble.

Will get some pics tonight and post (if i can work out how to do it)
 
yes, scrape with a razor blade at 90* to the hull. when you apply the finish cure, allow it to soak in for 10 - 15 minutes, take a credit card or similar & scrape off as much as possible. let that cure, then razor blade it. this will keep weight down, help lessen sanding needed & keep the edges sharp B) .
 
Chris, I'm very worried about this quote of yours: "Paint boat using any style of spraypaint (im sticking to the same brands)

once this is dry and to the desired effect, clear coat with acrylic. This should keep it fuelproof and fairly waterproof.

Make sure that your clear cote is compatible!!! Test it!! or buy the same brand as all your other paints.. I know you said that - but I'd hate to see you go through all that work - only to have the Clear cote start lifting the nice paint job you just did... It has happened to me. :huh:
 
Thanks for the warning Ted. Im a little worried too, so i will do a test today and see how it goes.

It says on the can that the acrylic clear can be used for enamel and acrylic.. Talking to a spray painter friend he said it should be fine but i should test it..

ill post some pics a lil later

"yes, scrape with a razor blade at 90* to the hull. when you apply the finish cure, allow it to soak in for 10 - 15 minutes, take a credit card or similar & scrape off as much as possible. let that cure, then razor blade it. this will keep weight down, help lessen sanding needed & keep the edges sharp . ".

Thats a great tip.. i was worried about keeping the edges sharp...THANKS!
 
one more tip on sharp edges - use a LONG sanding block. it will help you to stay flat & square to the hull. the harder it is the better, softer sanding blocks will allow the sandpaper to "wrap" aroung the edges, dulling them. long & hard is always better ;) :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :lol: .
 
I've been using Lustre-Kote for years. If you're in the snowbelt and the boat won't see water for a few months, now is the time to slap on the paint as the longer that it cures, the more fuel-proof that it becomes. Top Flite rates it as being fuel-proof up to a low percentage of nitro but it will take more. I've got an old flight box painted with it and it has taken 60% nitro in stride.

What I don't like though is their primer. It doesn't cover that well and is a bear to sand. Their regular white paint does a much better job. You're not going to get a mile-deep shine from it but the clear gloss does help a lot.
 
I've been using Lustre-Kote for years. If you're in the snowbelt and the boat won't see water for a few months, now is the time to slap on the paint as the longer that it cures, the more fuel-proof that it becomes. Top Flite rates it as being fuel-proof up to a low percentage of nitro but it will take more. I've got an old flight box painted with it and it has taken 60% nitro in stride.

What I don't like though is their primer. It doesn't cover that well and is a bear to sand. Their regular white paint does a much better job. You're not going to get a mile-deep shine from it but the clear gloss does help a lot.
I hear ya Ron.. That's why I just finished up painting mine & my Son's boats yesterday.

Now they can sit for the rest of the Winter, and get hard - like turtle shell's :D As far as the colors I don't like very much - with Lustre-Kote, is the Yellow's. They don't cover worth a darn. :rolleyes:
 
i've been using tamiya lacquer based spray bombs under lustre coat clear for a few years. stands up to 65% well with a long cure time. tamiya has a great color selection.
 
Yup, I tried the Tamiya paints as they do have a great selection of colors but like you said, it needs to be clear-coated. I found that out the hard way. I was stupid enough to listen to the clowns at the LHS who said that it was fuel-proof.
 
lacquer, fuel proof :blink: :huh: ?? ron, you're acting older than i am, if you bought into that bs :lol: :lol: ...
 
Back
Top