So this is going to be a tunnel build of a boat that turned into the Top speed tunnel The main reasion for the build tutorial is the lack of detailed info from other rc sources...and the most detailed WOF build I can find if of the ELIMINATOR tunnel... So please if someone has built this boat please comment..... I do have many questions already...so lets begin..... Plans...I got the plans from Mark Scott from here on this site..free thank you .. I printed out the plans and glued to a large piece of poster board and cut out the templates..I like repeatable results.. So get some wood and print out the plans and lets get building...
Off to the box store for foam...another source is construction sites...left over pieces 33" long will do...I like a little extra.. Next is a call to Dumas boats in Arizona...for the 7.5 cowl..
And dont forget the wood....I used BALSAWOODINC.COM...other sources are available...but there prices are very good...wood quality is superior... I purchaced 2 sheets of 1/32" 1 sheet 1/16" 1 sheet 1/8" All measurements are 12"x48"
Get some Gorilla glue, the original brown stuff. Where wood meets foam, thin layer on both sides. After about 3 hours, it should be cured enough to sand any excess off. Gorilla glue cures to a foam and not add that much weight, unlike epoxy. Before doing any gluing, figure out what the center section angle of attack will be. Zero should be ok for both stock and mod motors. Line up the center section pieces to the spoon inside pieces. Drill holes thru all. This is for lining up the spoons to the center section when those are gluing up. If the holes are perfect, the spoons will be perfectly matched when done. Some of the WOF designs have a concave bottom to the center section. Believe JD went flat with the second version of the 34" WOF.
So..one question that I have is on the building board...it shows the measurements for the length and stuff..there is a thin piece of wood that is the support for the front former but no measurements are given for the exact location... Second question..... Can the center section be cut from foam and sheeted...
JD might have to answer you question on that former. I actually never built a 30".. This is the one thing I love about building WOF's, you can adjust just what ever you want for everything. It's all up to you. How wide/narrow do you want the center section. Alter the center section rise/fall, where, etc. There's only a few pieces that have to be cut exact. Center section formers, spoon inside, spoon backside former and the transom former. There may be a few others that I've missed. All other pieces are oversized to allow overhang which will be sanded off to final shape. The center section side formers would have the foam in between them. Then foam would be also be placed in the middle center section to make the width of the center section. The transom brace would be glued in where it's needed. The middle front of the center section is opened to allow the radio box to be lowered in. This is one of my 29" WOF's built years ago. Transom was brought in 1" RX box in RX box out. The bottom has lips on both ends. Rear side will lock into a slot in the back, the front locks in with the angled piece. When I built the above 29", there were three others built at the same time. One boat was narrowed to, I think, 5 1/2 ". The buyer wanted to use the boat for SAW attempts.
Thanks very much Mark for the pics clearing up question one.... And J.D. ....the answer to question two explains a lot...thank you...so the tunnel bottom will have very slight elevation from transom to bow....thank you very much.. I will be away from this for two week... I will be on a Mission trip out of the U.S. So stay tuned for more when I return.. I will start the actual build at that time..
if it was not for Jerry an Mark i would have never tried to build tunnels Jerry for all the articals in rc boat modeler an the plans for WOF an Mark for the encouragement that i could do it THANK YOU 2 again one thing Gorilla glue takes a little practice to get right love it or hate it clamp it good an check IT often check out my gallery for some pics a friend posted for me
Thank you Marty, kind words to say the least. And I credit JD for the same, plus the fact that I spent most of my high school years in wood shop! Yea, Gorilla glue does take some getting used to. It does expand, so make sure it's taped well and/or clamped. Works best when both gluing surfaces have a thin layer to them both. Use a scrap piece of ply to spread it around. Wish I had the pics when I posted my build thread back then, what 10+ years ago.
Here's pics of my last WOF build and all the alterations I did instead of following the exact plan. The center / center section was lowered to allow the fuel cell to be placed where I wanted it. Notice the lip that is above the outer center sections. This is to help hold the cowl in place. The back side of the spoons were lined up with the center section curve. Kept it 1/8" above the center section. The rx box was again placed as low as possible. Hope these pics helps all with their builds.
Hello everyone.....I found a Wi-Fi spot and have a connection from Ukraine... Mark Scott....that tunnel is stunning... Or as the younger generation says...."its Sick dude"....
very nice Mark that is one nice thing about building from plans after the first one or four you start giving them your own personal tweeks marty
Thanks guys. Forgot to mention that the spoon decks were cut at 88 +/- degrees, not 90. After making a few, you'll get the idea on how it's done. Make changes to suit your taste. Run in rough water? Make the spoon bottom wider, center section wider, etc.. You never know, people will be asking you to make them a boat. (sorry, only building for PTI at this time...)
Mark Scott... Could you please for us less experienced...explain what deck spoons are...thank you very much...I'm guessing "spoon" is a short name for Sponson
