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Jon Mathison

New Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2021
Messages
2
Hello from Tokyo, Japan. I wanted to take a moment and introduce myself and say thank you for allowing me the opportunity to join your forum.



I’m an American living and working in Tokyo for the last 16 years, it’s wonderful, safe an amazing country to live in btw.



I mostly run and race 1/10 scale on road cars and buggy here in Japan, I also enjoy flying RC warbirds when not racing on road cars. I’m totally a newbie when it’s comes to the RC boats scene but became really interested in the sport after attending a event down in Nagoya



I purchased a new O.S. Max 21XM Ver. 2 (air cooled )off Yahoo auction about 8 months ago for 20,000¥ ( about 200$ ) then started looking for a tunnel hull for the engine. It took a few months to find one I thought would be a good fit for the O.S. Engine.



I picked up a used AquqCraft Top Speed 3 from a guy in Kyoto who ran it some heat events, the overall condition of the boat is excellent. The previous owner ran it with the same O.S. engine but the water cooled version. The radio system was include with tunnel hull, it’s a Futaba 3PM-2.4G MX Fasst system. The boat has been heavenly modified from the original kit. Tunnel cowling is custom made, custom made radio box, 3 channel setup with remote needle flow adjustments while running. Unique doubled fuel tank setup for the remote needle adjustments. Remote no-off for the radio receiver. Very happy with the overall build quality and craftsmanship 😍.



Now I just need to learn how to run it 😎. Any advice on breaking in the engine, prop size recommendations for break in and running. Has anyone ever used this remote needle in-line adjustable setup before ? Would like some suggestions on how to fine tune it.






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John,

Great looking boat! To break that motor in use an OS #8 plug.. and the fuel you plan on running it with. Make a number of runs with a rich setting (I run about 6) and then start to lean.. after the first good tune on the motor change the plug to a new one and save the break in plug for burning out the oil between outings.

MORE IMPOTRANT than that however is MAKE SURE to FULLY pickle the motor after your running session. A few "Drops" down the carb are NOT going to cut it.. FULLY oil the motor (use Corrosion X if you can get that.. if not.. air tool oil would be........OK.........

ENJOY

Grimracer
 
Hi Jon
Good info from the Grimracer,Drown the engine in lube after running, ,I just use auto trans fluid after flushing out with methyl spirits,,,even dewatering spray lube at a pinch,,,I assume you have the mixture valve working/adjustable and know which side is rich to lean,,best to always start on the rich side and gradually lean it out,,avoid leaning out too much or you will burn glowplugs/engine wear,,hopefully the mixture valve is set in range to get the right mix,,Is there a fuel pressure line from the engine exhaust to tank ?,,I'd start off with 30% nitro fuel with the standard head button and around 0.25 - 0.3mm piston to head clearance,,probably best to check it anyway,too much promotes detonation and not enough ,piston hits the head,,most of us use water cooled heads but I can see it will get plenty of air just check the temp,,When/if you want to use 60% nitro,you have to measure the head bowl volume to make sure the compression is not too high,keeping the head clearance the same,,,,I usually prime my fuel line for a quick start,,As for props,I'm guesstimating as I'm not an outboard guy,,maybe Prather 215,,octura x438-x440 ,1440-1442 and a range of ABC props around 40-42mm dia depending on nitro %,,Hopefully the outboard guys can better advise with prop selection, and other things,Welcome to the mad scientific world of model boating lol
 
Thank you both for your suggestions and recommendation I really appreciate you sharing the wisdom, knowledge and experience.

Hopefully if the rain stops by the weekend I might have an opportunity to get a few tanks into the break-in, trim, balancing process, tuning and a whole lot of fun 😍
 
Looks good with the Vision cowl!

Just pull the head shim out from under the head when you are ready...take your time before leaning too hard and they only get better the more fuel you get through them!

edit: Spelling error
 
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Thank you both for your suggestions and recommendation I really appreciate you sharing the wisdom, knowledge and experience.

Hopefully if the rain stops by the weekend I might have an opportunity to get a few tanks into the break-in, trim, balancing process, tuning and a whole lot of fun 😍
Cheers Jon,,another thing is, you'l need to sharpen the prop's leading edge just on the back side and balance it,,best to do it outside and wear a good quality dust mask and gloves as the berylium copper doesn;t agree with us humans,,or you can buy props ready sharpened/balanced from Mark Sholand on this site
 
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