Green Dragon U40

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Myron Jackson

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
5
Scratch built Sport Hydro. Framed with 1/16 ply. Decked with 1/32. Cockpit made forming foam, coating with epoxy then removing the foam. No radio box. Electronics treated with Conformal and Corrosion X. Square to square drive. Gizmo GZR5. 27cc motor. Strut brackets custom including Dragon tail launch handle. Custom exhaust extension that exits through the rear deck. Fun build.IMG_1941.JPGIMG_2075.JPGIMG_2142 .jpgIMG_1937.JPGIMG_1750.JPGIMG_1607.JPGIMG_1595.JPGIMG_1596.JPGIMG_1669.JPG
 
What a nice built boat. I bet it runs great. I love the looks and like Michael said the exhaust is way cool.
 
Thanks Dave and Mario. I didn't have this photo. Hopefully in 2022 I will get the setup right and can race competitively.
 
I keep looking for a group or a club in North Georgia, so I too can get involved, sportingly.
I truly doubt I will be competitive. I just want to be part of keeping the Scale Hydro's running.
Great Looking Lady Mr. J
 
88 miles north of Atlanta Near the town of Ellijay in Gilmer County, Georgia We have some great lil Lakes and ponds but for now its just about making contacts and talking with like minded people.
Privately; I have access to a large pond (2-3 football fields wide by 4-5 Long est..) some friends own where I can run it all I want.
 
Very nicely built.
Questions: How many layers of cloth did you use for the cowl? And how did you remove the foam? I have never tried removing the foam with solvent and am wondering if the foam would turn into a goo

Thanks,
k
 
Kez,
Thank you. I used two layers of cloth on the outside and some additional small pieces of glass in the cockpit proper as it was the weak area. I then dug the foam out with pointed and sharp tools (many different tools). I left foam in the forward area and on the transom for flotation. I have used acetone before. It melts the foam into a gooey liquid. My engine well is 8" wide so four pieces of 2' foam filled the space. It also created a center line for shaping the cowl. After removing the foam I reinforced from the inside. I once again had to add extra in the cockpit area and the nose. Some pics of the build attached. 1726 shows the flotation left in the front. 1728 shows where I reinforced with CF.
Regards, Myron
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1626.JPG
    IMG_1626.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1646.JPG
    IMG_1646.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 24
  • IMG_1669.JPG
    IMG_1669.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 25
  • IMG_1726.JPG
    IMG_1726.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 29
  • IMG_1728.JPG
    IMG_1728.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 30
  • IMG_1880.JPG
    IMG_1880.JPG
    2.5 MB · Views: 27
  • IMG_1943.JPG
    IMG_1943.JPG
    2.4 MB · Views: 26
  • U40  Pin.jpg
    U40 Pin.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 28
I made a pattern of the curvature of the cowling from construction paper. I cut the tail to this pattern and left two tabs below the curve line. These two tabs fit into slots cut into the cowling. Matching the tail to the curve was a matter of final sanding/fitting. The tabs allowed me to reinforce the tail from inside the cowling. I used G-Flex for this installation. I sealed the tail with West System cut with 90% alcohol before I epoxied it into the cowling. I have attached a pic of a tail installation that shows all this a little better. You can see the front tab well, the rear is harder to see.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2503.JPG
    IMG_2503.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 21
Back
Top