Epoxy clear over rattle can finish?

[BobBonahoom]

I posted this on the other thread about "spray can epoxy" Please be careful with these 2K products.

One other thing to remember is that even though this thread is titled "spray can epoxy" this 2K Clear Glamour and similar products are not epoxy. They are catalyzed urethanes which, unlike epoxy, are extremely toxic. Although you can get away with a simple respirator with epoxy, these 2K paints contain a catalyst hardener with is an isocyanate. This chemical is very dangerous. Most people who paint with this class of paint use a supplied air system with very good ventilation. All your exposed skin should be covered with long sleeves, gloves and a complete air hood over your head. You don't want this stuff to be absorbed through your skin. Some may remember what happened at the union carbide plant in Bhopal India in 1984. They accidently released methyl isocyanate into the air and 15,000 people died.

 

[Kez]

I posted this on the other thread about "spray can epoxy" Please be careful with these 2K products.

Thanks. I totally agreed. Our health come first

 

[MikeStewart]

i just cleared my Backlash with 2k clear. top, bottom and cowling took 2 cans. the first coat should be very light.
Let it setup before spraying heavier final coat. This will insure that the clear has no adverse reactions with the base spray paint. Also, do not spray the paint until it is smooth and glossy, it will run. You want it to go on with slight orange peel look. It will flow out to smooth within a minute and won't run. Most important is light first coat with any paint.

 

[Wesleys Custom Graphics]

I spent $240. The other day for a gallon of clear and catalist. Spent another $95. For a qt. of base coat white and catalist. This 2k stuff sounds pretty dam good to me if it is fuel proof.

 

[MikeStewart]

It is fuel proof. It is legitimate catalyzed automotive clear. Push button on bottom of can to release catalyst, shake and spray. You have 24 hours to use it or it will harden in the can.

 

[Chris Haley]

Have 2 cans on hand for my next project. Im sure that only 1 can would easily do at least 2 boats. Proper protection is #1

 

[Chris Haley]

Sorry,
Make sure that your color coat is cured, dried or hardened. The urethane will pretty much cover any type of rattle can paint that is cured.

 

[Chris Haley]

I spent $240. The other day for a gallon of clear and catalist. Spent another $95. For a qt. of base coat white and catalist. This 2k stuff sounds pretty dam good to me if it is fuel proof.

The advantage to what you have done is you can mix only what you need. A gallon of clear and activator is a LOT cheaper than a 2K product clear. You can clear coat at least 2 full size cars with the clear you purchased. It will take a lot of 2k to do the same and cost more. What you paid for the gallon sounds a little steep.

 

[Kez]

I just came across this video.



I have never tried wet scuffing the primer after only 20 min. I would think there is still thinner in the primer and it is still soft. The primer probably does not sand very well.

Also, I am surprised the 2K clear did not react with the rattle can without letting it dry completely.

k

 

[BobBonahoom]

I sprayed a cowl with cheap Rustoleum paint. Waited 30 minutes and clear coated with the 2K. Came out absolutely perfect. I actually called Rustoleum's tech line before I did it and they told me that if you wait too long (like over an hour) before you clear coat, you should then wait at least 24 hours before you clear coat. They also said that it is important to scuff it (after 24 hours) before the clear coat, but don't scuff if it has been less than 1 hour.

 

[Lay26]

2k is a great clear...its good to have a few parts ready cause it can be used for up to 48 hrs

 

[Chris Haley]

2k is a great clear...its good to have a few parts ready cause it can be used for up to 48 hrs

Also store in a cool environment. Heat does speed the catalyst process.

 

[Chris Haley]

I sprayed a cowl with cheap Rustoleum paint. Waited 30 minutes and clear coated with the 2K. Came out absolutely perfect. I actually called Rustoleum's tech line before I did it and they told me that if you wait too long (like over an hour) before you clear coat, you should then wait at least 24 hours before you clear coat. They also said that it is important to scuff it (after 24 hours) before the clear coat, but don't scuff if it has been less than 1 hour.

If you are using a metallic color and feel you will need to scuff it before the 2K, I would apply a coat of the same clear over the color. This will prevent the possibility of cutting through a layer and the metallic appearing as though you cut through a coat. Interesting on the timeline from Rustoleum, Was your color solid or metallic? That is great your paint came out great.

 

[BobBonahoom]

If you are using a metallic color and feel you will need to scuff it before the 2K, I would apply a coat of the same clear over the color. This will prevent the possibility of cutting through a layer and the metallic appearing as though you cut through a coat. Interesting on the timeline from Rustoleum, Was your color solid or metallic? That is great your paint came out great.

It was just a simple red color. Not metallic.

 

[Chris Haley]

Again Bob, I"m glad it came out great.

 

[bob miller]

if you use rust oleum /plaid lable/ mixing a little valspar enamel hardener will speed up drying and hardening ang give a better shine.....you can brush on with a soft brush.