Engineering's been busy!

Discussion in 'General RC Boating Forum' started by Terry Keeley, Oct 24, 2013.

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  1. Oct 24, 2013 #1

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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  2. Oct 24, 2013 #2

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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  3. Oct 24, 2013 #3

    eekern

    eekern

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    So...my guess is you can take the stock blades and re-attach them to a new center-bore at whatever pitch you want?????? Or am I completely missing something
     
  4. Oct 24, 2013 #4

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    Yup, more to come! :)
     
  5. Oct 24, 2013 #5

    eekern

    eekern

    eekern

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    Sometimes I wish I had been a machinist. :D
     
  6. Oct 24, 2013 #6

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    Me too!
     
  7. Oct 24, 2013 #7

    moparbarn

    moparbarn

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    terry made a dail-a-prop. VERY kool!!
     
  8. Oct 24, 2013 #8

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

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    Very slick Terry! So are you going to make a 22xx, a 23XX, a 24XX or 25XX version of a 2170?
     
  9. Oct 24, 2013 #9

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    All those and more! :)
     
  10. Oct 24, 2013 #10

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    Actually got one from Dee, very good to talk to him and Ed again. Used some of the concepts for my unit. :)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2013
  11. Oct 24, 2013 #11
    That solution was responsible for the sudden increase in the G1 SAW speeds. The engines are rpm limited so more pitch is the only answer. You don't need to get quite that fancy if you have a prop duplicator of the stock or cupped prop. Cut most of the blade from the leading edge, and bend each blade up the same amount from the mold. Then carefully rebraze the blade to the hub. Heat treating the prop afterward is a good idea as well.

    Lohring Miller
     
  12. Oct 24, 2013 #12

    El Zorro

    El Zorro

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    I can appreciate the thought, effort and engineering that you put into this project. Great job with this ( nice pictures, too! ). There are many of your fellow boaters who know just how serious you are about your hobby and many more that will benefit from your willingness to share your ideas and efforts to make us better and more successful when we go to the lake. Thanks for what you do to make this hobby better!

    Dick Tyndall
     
  13. Oct 24, 2013 #13

    Don Ferrette

    Don Ferrette

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    WOW!! Terry that is some seriously impressive work! SUPER job my friend. :)
     
  14. Oct 24, 2013 #14

    Tom Foley

    Tom Foley

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    Unreal , using the man cave the way it's supposed to be used !
     
  15. Oct 24, 2013 #15

    ALLAN YUEN

    ALLAN YUEN

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    Wow how to welding or solder on shaft together ?
     
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  16. Oct 24, 2013 #16

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    Thanks guys, took a fair bit of cipherin' to come up with that.

    If you think about it a sec. the prop has to be located properly in all 3 axis', then rotated only about the horizontal, otherwise it'll be "off".

    Going to silver braze the blades back on, apparently BeCu brazes very well.

    Anxious to give some more LE pitch a try... :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 25, 2013
  17. Oct 24, 2013 #17

    John Beardslee

    John Beardslee

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    Hi Terry,

    Nice setup. Have you used aircraft counter bores? They have a removerable/interchangeable pilot. When used in your application the pilot helps track the cutter and might help take some of the cutting pressure off your fixture. I finally got around to reading your tech briefs on BeCu really good up to date information! Yes, BeCu brazes really well.

    John
     
  18. Oct 24, 2013 #18

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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    Thought about using/making a counterbore/holesaw type of tool to remove the original hub but thinking about it you have to leave some of the original material to match the new pitch angle.

    Ain't as easy as it looks... :lol:
     
  19. Oct 25, 2013 #19

    Terry Keeley

    Terry Keeley

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  20. Oct 25, 2013 #20

    John Beardslee

    John Beardslee

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    Hi Terry,

    I hear you, very difficult to hold props to work them. Now you take the hub and bore away and it doesn't leave you much to hold tight and control. Your set is about as good as I've seen. I used to regrind the O.D. on the counterbores to get the size I needed. When I did the 4 bladed props I used two 2 bladed props, I cut the hub halfway down from the top on one prop and halfway up from the drive dog side of the other and silver brazed them together. I had overbored the I.D. and made a sleeve to keep them centered and a fixture to make sure they were indexed 90 degress apart. Neat Stuff!!

    Thanks, John
     

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