Drop in Gas to FE Conversion

[Martin Law]

Hi All,

Just moved to FL to a home on the most perfect RC boat pond right out my back door. Come to find out nothing gas powered is allowed on this pond, not even an RC gas boat. I have 2 Gas Riggers and 2 Gas Sport boats. I was thinking maybe I could convert one to FE to run on this pond.

Anyone out there know of a direct drop in electric motor conversion that would replace the Zen with a Gizmo engine mount I have in there now? I did some searching on the forum and couldn't really find anything. Don't have any experience with FE but could use some guidance to see if it's even feasible.

Thanks,

Marty

 

[RaceMechaniX]

No there is not really at drop in motor combo with a mount that will go directly to the Zenoah mounts. Years ago I designed a mount for the Castle 2028 motor to drop in, but never produced any.

A good recommendation would be a Castle 2028 or TP 5670 motor with a Castle XLX2 Hydra ESC on 8S2P. That will get you gas like power and enough run time for 8-10 laps.

 

[Martin Law]

No there is not really at drop in motor combo with a mount that will go directly to the Zenoah mounts. Years ago I designed a mount for the Castle 2028 motor to drop in, but never produced any.

A good recommendation would be a Castle 2028 or TP 5670 motor with a Castle XLX2 Hydra ESC on 8S2P. That will get you gas like power and enough run time for 8-10 laps.

Thanks for the reply Tyler...

Seems like maybe an untapped market? IMHO it would be a great alternative to building a strictly FE boat which is gaining in popularity and give some flexibility if it could be converted back and forth as desired. How did it perform in your prototype and any particular reason you didn't pursue it further?

Thanks,

Marty

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Marty,

The conversion was easy however it's not something you can easily go back and forth on unless you are running all of your electric components exposed. That was not something I was willing to do.

If time allows I will try to come up with a universal FE motor mount for the common large format FE motors like the TP 56xx and Castle 2028.

 

[Martin Law]

Marty,

The conversion was easy however it's not something you can easily go back and forth on unless you are running all of your electric components exposed. That was not something I was willing to do.

If time allows I will try to come up with a universal FE motor mount for the common large format FE motors like the TP 56xx and Castle 2028.

Thanks Tyler!
Looking forward to what you come up with and suggestions on the configuration of the other components. Previously I could have come up with something on my own but due to non existent work space in the new house I sold off all of my fabrication equipment which was extremely painful. Plus, I definitely need to get up to speed on the latest FE technology.
I'm sure there are others that will be interested in this too...

Marty

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Better to save the gas for where you can run or sell them and start afresh.

Electric boats are different boats from the ground up. There has to be room for the batteries where the CG is correct. The hulls themselves are designed to be sealed to the canopies. Batteries, ESC and motor all need to stay dry.

 

[LohringMiller]

Actually, these days the ESC, battery, and motor can all run underwater. Only the receiver needs to be protected.

Lohring Miller

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Lohring, that's pretty bad advice especially from the Safety Director. Lipos should be kept dry as moisture will cause galvanic corrosion in the tabs. I know a lot of tunnel guys are running exposed ESC's and batteries, however I don't often hear of them keeping batteries for more than a year.

Keep your electronics dry.

 

[LohringMiller]

If you read one of my last safety articles, I advised keeping everything enclosed in a dry space. However, with modern equipment, everything but receivers will run underwater. Corrosion becomes the issue with motor bearings and battery tabs. I still run servos in radio boxes, waterproof or not.

The RC sub guy, who's boat is pictured, builds his watertight cylinders to enclose everything still. He did a series of short term tests on batteries and servos under water. Silicon over battery terminals helped with corrosion there. He found at least one "waterproof" servo that didn't work after immersion for a couple days.

My radio boxes always seem to leak a little if the boat sits upside down for a while. The new waterproof components are an improvement. Electric motors for one work a lot better in water than IC engines.

Lohring Miller

 

[Daniel's Racing]

If you read one of my last safety articles, I advised keeping everything enclosed in a dry space.

However, with modern equipment, everything but receivers will run underwater.

Lohring Miller

Unless you water proof them. Submerged for days and working 100%. Left it until battery went dead. Plugged in new battery 4 days later and still working.

 

[LohringMiller]

That's a really good idea. How do you do it so you can still plug in servos?

Lohring Miller

 

[RaceMechaniX]

I spent an hour mocking up a sheet metal motor mount that works with all the large format FE motors like TP 56mm, Castle 2028, Neu 22 series and Lehner 30 series which will drop into the standard gas rubber isolator spacing in a gas boat. I will see what they will cost to produce.
Here is the Castle 2028.


Here is the Lehner 3080.

Here is a Neu 2230.

 

[Dirk Jan Cozy]

Nice job Basically it is a sandwich construction, consisting out of 2 plates that are fastened together with the motor fasteners, right?

What kind of metal are you considering, aluminum?

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Yes Dirk, the idea is to hold the front and back half together with the motor screws and optionally a pair just to keep the plates together. Lots of material options from aluminum to stainless in different thicknesses. These plates can be laser cut and bent for fairly cheap. I did not include a rear mount as all the motors are a different diameter making it tricky to come up with a universal design.

 

[Martin Law]

Yes Dirk, the idea is to hold the front and back half together with the motor screws and optionally a pair just to keep the plates together. Lots of material options from aluminum to stainless in different thicknesses. These plates can be laser cut and bent for fairly cheap. I did not include a rear mount as all the motors are a different diameter making it tricky to come up with a universal design.

Looks awesome Tyler!
Now just have to figure out a clever electronics configuration for an existing gas hull. I think you are on to something great here...Can't wait to try this!

Marty

 

[Grimracer]

SEXEY.. if it was me.. pondering.. I would change the aft slot set to vertical.

I have no interest in FE but but GREAT design.. Hubba hubba!

Grim

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Thanks Mike for catching that. I will convert to a vertical slot for the rear.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Added some pockets to lighten the rear frame.

 

[Grimracer]

BAM!.. and just like that.. Tyler has solved an issue in RC boating.. I LOVE TO SOLVE! TITE WORK TYLER!

Grim

 

[DrewNelson]

Looks Great! Finish it off with an incorporated ESC mount plate and you just knocked out two of the "swappable power plant" components. Only thing left would be the battery(s)/gas tank. Not bad for 4 screws!

I wonder how far off the prop would be going from a zenoah to one of these FE setups. I'm wondering if there is a KV/bat setup that would get close to the prop used on say a stock zenoah? Or would it be way off?