Cmb Gold head 45

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Davidkrienke

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
405
I Picked up this engine and wanted to know if it was comparable to the newer cmb engines in power and if anyone had a header and quiet pipe that works well with it.
 

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Good engines if modded correctly. Amd if modded will run with the newer engines.
the current headers should work on it. Amd various newer pipes too
 
Good engines if modded correctly. Amd if modded will run with the newer engines.
the current headers should work on it. Amd various newer pipes too
Thats good to hear. Hopefully someone will chime in with some timing numbers and what to do to port it and make it the best it can be. I will degree wheel it when it gets here and see where its at. If anyone knows how to make the best of this engine please chime in.
 
I was wanting to see if anyone would know what these two pipes were on the left there they both measure about 16 inches total length . I think one will work and I found a header in this lot I picked up that might work. It was a oring header and used a oring from a/c unsure if it can handle the temps. its a green oring. Also I wanted to take this engine apart but the end plate with the flywheel i loosened it but I didn't see it move I used a little heat from solder station but didnt go crazy until I know whats up with it. . Also I need to get the carb off and dont see how to do it I am new to cmb engines. . I would like to take it apart and clean it since its new and also I would like to get some ideas on what to do to port it to make the best of it. I am fluent with porting and degree wheel so any help would be appreciated.
 

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carb and backplate is one piece. one of the key things with this motor is rotor clearance. more than likely the rear face of the case will have to be machined down. you will want .002 to .003 total clearance.you may have as much as .020 out of the box. also make sure the od of the rotor is not rubbing on the id of the case. litely use a needle file to deburr the drive slot hole so the rotor will drop on and off the crank when dry,it needs to float. set rotor closing to about 65 degrees after tdc. square up the inlet hole in the case, for more flow.if it has a double plug head, lose it. remove the carb extension. set exhaust to 187 to max 190,transfers to 127 to 130, shoot for 30 blowdown, head clearance about .012. if you can find someone with a wire edm have them oblong the carb bore wider with a small corner radius,don't go taller,or carb won't shut off. HAND LAP THE WRIST PIN BORE,with the wrist pin and some wd-40,till it works in and out,and rotates smooth, or it can sieze in the rod. tap water holes to lower chamber in case and plug with 4-40 set screws. these mods will make this a bullet proof motor for a long time, and will run,or out run current engines
 
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