Buid a custom metal Gas tank

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it's where the hopper is just solder to the outlet tube only and the outlet tube is only solder to the front of the tank it looks like the hopper is just floating in the air
 
John.. what have you determined is a good size (Volume) for a hopper tank (lets say 67 boat). I did some testing years ago and was able to conclude but not sure what the current thoughts are.

Grim
 
I have a standard for a 20 size motor 1 oz 

40 motor 1 oz

67 / 80  1.2  oz. 

90  1.5 oz 

it all depends on the shape of the tank on how big you can make the hopper in the way I make my hopper tanks really you could almost run all the motors off the 67 / 80 hopper you would understand more about the way my hopper works if you could see it I will post some pictures when I get home tonight  thanks
 
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Nice video  but that is not even close to how I build a tank all my tanks have only 3 pieces 2 sides and the center section here are some pictures of how I do my hopper this was a crazy shape tank with the lines coming out the side of the tank you can see how the hopper is just floating in the air one thing about the way I do this is the fuel is right there at the outlet it don't have to travel very far to exit the hopper I think this is the way to do it but I know there are people out there will have something to say about it but I believe it works flawless I will guarantee you one thing that it will such every drop of fuel out of your Tank

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The tanks I built were not a contest or.. a better way.. or a he said he said.. they were just reliable and got the job done for 34 dollars.

Mike, hope in all this you find a system that works for you and your tank build. Its fun to do and please keep us posted on your build. Any questions please ask. Lots of help here. (Hard to believe that video is just about 9 years old)

Thanks Doug for allowing to share the video.. (Thanks Topfuel)

Grim
 
You guys all do a very nice job on these tanks ! Thanks for sharing . The ones I made work good but don't look anything like Walts , Johns or Mikes , or Steve Ball's tanks ! Good informative stuff !
 
The tanks I built were not a contest or.. a better way.. or a he said he said.. they were just reliable and got the job done for 34 dollars.

Mike, hope in all this you find a system that works for you and your tank build. Its fun to do and please keep us posted on your build. Any questions please ask. Lots of help here. (Hard to believe that video is just about 9 years old)

Thanks Doug for allowing to share the video.. (Thanks Topfuel)

Grim
For sure! I had several of those $34 tanks that never let me down. You'd be shocked at what the cost of some tanks are now a days. 
 
Well the cost of fuel tanks these day are because we are using the best stuff you can buy high grade stainless custom cut to a standard size 200 ft at a time I use medical grade stainless Tubing  because i will never put brass tubing in any tank thats why i give a life time warranty with all my tanks  it's not like the old days when people built tanks out of tin and brass tubing that the tanks didn't last that long do to fatigue and vibration these days you want top quality stuff you got to pay for it I am not knocking anybody else but that's how it is these days  you gonna play fast you need fast stuff   

And just let some of you know I have given away a lot of fuel tanks for free to raffles and Christmas give aways and ask for nothing in return 

That's all I have to say about that  
 
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The way I view it.. and this is the way we approached it when I had Power Surge Racing Products.

My competition was two fold.

Plastic tanks at 6 bucks each

or 

Currently on the market metal tanks for 50 bucks each

we offered a 34 dollar tank that had a "what ever the customer deems practical grantee"

In all the years of making and using the tanks I have built.. I have NEVER had a brass line break or spider crack AS long as I used the brass as we spoke of above. (some are now 10 years old).. still running the darn things.

We used K&S tin that I bought by the 250' roll..LOL.. I still have about 1/4 roll.. (I have found all kinds of uses for that old roll of tin!)

To this day.. I have NEVER had a customer complainant that I was not able to remedy. Each tank was cleaned and pressure tested BUT.. stuff still got out.. Sometimes the rosin I used would be hard to get out of the tank.. or.. a seam might have a pin hole.. (we always covered it)

They did not need to be the best tanks one could buy.. they needed to be the BEST for the money!

At one point.. I had a ME buddy of mine come in a build tanks once a week. he would build on Thursdays an I would clean and package on Thursday nights.. we would ship Fridays. Then I would get to spend the weekend building more!..LOL

Then one last thing.. THANK YOU to all the customers that purchased our tanks..

John... Walt.. you have the market and I wish you all the best. (good products...please support them)

Grim
 
I'd just like to thank everyone that's posted on the thread providing information on making tanks.  I've purchased a few custom tanks and am glad for those of you that make them.  All things considered for having a custom tank built to my specs, the materials, labor and craftsmanship I consider them reasonably priced.
 
The way I view it.. and this is the way we approached it when I had Power Surge Racing Products.

My competition was two fold.

Plastic tanks at 6 bucks each

or 

Currently on the market metal tanks for 50 bucks each

we offered a 34 dollar tank that had a "what ever the customer deems practical grantee"

In all the years of making and using the tanks I have built.. I have NEVER had a brass line break or spider crack AS long as I used the brass as we spoke of above. (some are now 10 years old).. still running the darn things.

We used K&S tin that I bought by the 250' roll..LOL.. I still have about 1/4 roll.. (I have found all kinds of uses for that old roll of tin!)

To this day.. I have NEVER had a customer complainant that I was not able to remedy. Each tank was cleaned and pressure tested BUT.. stuff still got out.. Sometimes the rosin I used would be hard to get out of the tank.. or.. a seam might have a pin hole.. (we always covered it)

They did not need to be the best tanks one could buy.. they needed to be the BEST for the money!

At one point.. I had a ME buddy of mine come in a build tanks once a week. he would build on Thursdays an I would clean and package on Thursday nights.. we would ship Fridays. Then I would get to spend the weekend building more!..LOL

Then one last thing.. THANK YOU to all the customers that purchased our tanks..

John... Walt.. you have the market and I wish you all the best. (good products...please support them)

Grim
Mike,

  You are correct about the tank making market, there is only so much to go around and John and I do our best to build and test our tanks, The last several years my tanks have changed, on the inside, by testing in my boats and sending free tanks out for other to test, I do not make a lot of money making tanks but it is something I enjoy doing. I also give tanks away at boat races and will keep doing this as a lot of young boaters  don't have the money to invest in a good fuel tank.

I know the cost is going up just like everything else, The postage is going up the 1st of the year even the stamps will go up to .50 per oz..

thanks

Walt Barney

Tanks 2 U

Walt's Hobbies
 
I use .010 304 stainless steel 

Tubing is high grade medical grade stainless Tubing they make needles out of

I put it together with stay Brite silver solider and acid flux 

If you are going to try and build you a tank I recommend you do not use brass tubing in any tank

Especially if you are going to mount the hopper to the floor of the tank the brass tubing eventually crack and split

Then your tank is no good  I recommend a floating hopper you will never have any problems  

That is just my recommendation you build it how ever you want 

Thanks john 
I like your stainless tubing methodology, John...even though I've never cracked any brass tubing (knock on wood!)
 

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