3D printing a strut

Discussion in 'General RC Boating Forum' started by the german, Feb 6, 2020.

intlwaters.com

Help Support intlwaters.com:

  1. Feb 6, 2020 #1

    the german

    the german

    the german

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Stevenson Ranch,CA
    Hi guy's
    What are your thoughts about 3D printing a strut out of Nylon X (nylon carbon composite)?
    Did anyone already tried ?

    Thanks you for input

    Alex 3D Strut.JPG
     
  2. Feb 6, 2020 #2

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2007
    Messages:
    2,329
    Location:
    Asheville, North Carolina
    I have printed some parts from Carbon Nylon with good results. Pretty amazing material when you get the settings right.
     
  3. Feb 6, 2020 #3

    Nigtmare

    Nigtmare

    Nigtmare

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Messages:
    1,432
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    post some pictures when you finish
     
  4. Feb 6, 2020 #4

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2003
    Messages:
    1,195
    Location:
    Clawson, MI
    I have been playing around with "functional" Fused Filament Fabrication (AKA 3D printing) for awhile now. I have stuck with components, that what I perceive to be, minimally loaded (high stress). With that being said, I haven't graduated to Nylon impregnated materials yet. Although, that is my goal. I have only implemented components in my FE boats and nothing for Nitro. That eliminates my need for raw fuel and exhaust degrading the materials.

    About your strut; I am really curious to see how it performs. Even down the straights of a race course the strut is going to see vibrations. I suspect you will have some (generally speaking) vertical loading also, which will be supported by the height of the strut. Again, making assumptions, I would guess that your going to see additional side loading with minimal support while making turns. Good Luck and keep us posted!

    By the way, What printer are you using? Do you need an enclosure for printing nylon?

    Thanks
    Mike
     
  5. Feb 6, 2020 #5

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2007
    Messages:
    2,329
    Location:
    Asheville, North Carolina
    Mike, an enclosure is recommend not for the fumes, but to keep the part temperature high for better fusing. I think I am running around 220DegC nozzle temps for the nylon.
    I had to 3D print a new cowl for the Q-hydro(you know so I can reclaim my record) and at only 1mm thick it's strong and after sealing with some epoxy it's nice and water tight.
     
  6. Feb 6, 2020 #6

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    396
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    I've been using Taulman 910 to print structural parts. Fillers mostly increase stiffness, not strength. Plastics can be as strong as "pot metals" but aren't as stiff. I think outboard lower units are a good possibility for 3D printing.

    Lohring Miller
     
  7. Feb 6, 2020 #7

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2003
    Messages:
    1,195
    Location:
    Clawson, MI
    Agreed on the enclosure. That is one reason, I haven't gone down that direction yet. I have the materials to build a dedicated enclosure; I just haven't devoted the time. I have also read that upgrading the nozzle from brass to hardened steel is recommended due to the abrasive nature of the "exotic" materials. Tyler are you printing at home or is this "government work" in the office? I recently purchased a new printer (Prusa MK3s). Very nice unit and is doing a good job out of the box. However, I haven't done much experimenting other than PLA

    Lohring, thanks for the suggestion for Taulman 910. I will take a look. Looks like you need an enclosure for this stuff too. How about a hardened nozzle?

    Thanks
    Mike
     
  8. Feb 6, 2020 #8

    the german

    the german

    the german

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Stevenson Ranch,CA


    Mike
    I talked to the Prusa guy's lately and they recommend a harden nozzle and an enclosure when you print Nylon X etc.
    I agree with Tyler .......it's the best way to keep the part temp. high for better fusing.Right now I'm printing my stuff on a Lulzbot but I'm going to buy a Prusa MK3s for sure.

    Alex
     
  9. Feb 6, 2020 #9

    Brad Christy

    Brad Christy

    Brad Christy

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2002
    Messages:
    1,055
    Alex,

    I know somebody on here made a strut out of Delrin a while back and it didn't end well. If I recall, it was the heat at start-up. There's more friction there than we think. Everything's all fine and dandy once it's in the water, but we don't start our boats in the water. Just something to think about.

    Thanks. Brad.
    Titan Racing Components
    BlackJack Hydros
    Model Machine and Precision LLC
     
    Tom Foley likes this.
  10. Feb 7, 2020 #10

    Mike Hughes

    Mike Hughes

    Mike Hughes

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2003
    Messages:
    2,842
    Location:
    Federal Way WA
    I have made a carbon strut with compression molds. Eric Bourlet was running it in his sport40. We did not have a heat issue as a brass liner was set in the mold for the shaft. The problem we had was it did not want to stay in place. Was always moving. It was too slippery. We gave up on it and went back to aluminum. I still have the one I made for me somewhere.
    Mike
     
  11. Feb 7, 2020 #11

    the german

    the german

    the german

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Stevenson Ranch,CA
    I was just thinking to make cheaper rc boat parts with the help of the new technology.
    I already made some air scoops to test ..... we'll see what the future brings !

    Thank you all for your inputs !

    Alex

    IMG_2298.JPG IMG_2299.JPG IMG_2300.JPG
     
  12. Feb 7, 2020 #12

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    longballlumber

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2003
    Messages:
    1,195
    Location:
    Clawson, MI
    Alex, that intake scoop is awesome! Hopefully you see some performance increases!
     
  13. Feb 8, 2020 #13

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    396
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    If you make the strut beefy enough, it should work. Remember, plastic is not as stiff as aluminum. In my outboard mount I just made things thicker. In my sponsons I used 4 outer perimeters and 10% gyroid infill. The outer layer is what gives stiffness. Webs are an alternative. I have been considering running the shaft directly in nylon. However, a brass bushing will probably wear better. Below is one version of the outboard lower unit. The fin is too thin to work in plastic.

    Lohring Miller
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Feb 8, 2020 #14

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    LohringMiller

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    396
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    Another thought. Print the strut on end. That way the layer lines will be vertical, giving longitudinal strength and making the shaft hole more accurately round. It will still need sized, though.

    Lohring Miller
     
  15. Feb 10, 2020 #15

    Tom Foley

    Tom Foley

    Tom Foley

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2005
    Messages:
    5,972
    Location:
    Hudson , Fl .
    If you have ever had a strut break you know the carnage it causes , especially on a Twin . A few hundred bucks worth .
    The best struts in my opinion are the stainless Octura strut followed by the Insane and Rum Racing as the end mill sharpening is done with the end mill parallel to the shaft bore producing a radius top and bottom unlike some that are milled in such a way to leave a stress rising 90 corner where it meets the strut in the front .
     
    Norm Doerr likes this.
  16. Feb 13, 2020 #16

    the german

    the german

    the german

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Stevenson Ranch,CA
    Tom
    I machine my struts normally out of T7075 aluminum ...... never had any issue with breaking or deforming but with the new technology of 3D printing ...... i just had a thought.
     
    Tom Foley likes this.
  17. Feb 13, 2020 #17

    Tom Foley

    Tom Foley

    Tom Foley

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2005
    Messages:
    5,972
    Location:
    Hudson , Fl .
    Any pics of your 7075 struts , might be interested . Thanks .
     

Share This Page

Group Builder
arrow_white