1 way to build a Rx switch

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So you cut the red wire and solder, the other are not cut?

Fons
Yes sir. Snip only the red. Black and white pass through. Only the black is actually being used. The white is just along for the ride and helps add strength to the assembly so we just leave it.
 
I use a Dubro pushrod boot over the toggle switch with a dab of shoe goo to seal the pushrod hole. Some people push the toggle into the boot, but I don’t like the way it bunches up the rubber boot and puts pressure on the switch.. mine totally encapsulates the toggle switch lever.

Never had one get bumped off.
Make my switches up just like buckshot does..
never had a switch failure or wire break off.. 😁👍
 
The switch comes with two nuts and a washer. A little dab of silicon on the washer face prior to install is all I use. The boot on the out side seals the rest of the switch.
I only allow enough thread to protrude the get a full nut plus and 1 extra thread. Don’t let to much thread into the boot or it could/will tear.
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Here’s one installed on a lid:
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Nice...

If I was building I would want to use a DPDT and at a minimum use both poles.. A typical APEM SPDT switch is 5A. With a DPDT there would be some redundancy.

Locking switches are not for me either.. I have seen one get broken when the chase boat person was confused. LOL

just one of many ways.

Grim
 
Don’t use the cheap chingchong switches off of Amazon either, they are not designed very well… I used a couple in my truck for switching light loads to small relays and I had two actually fall apart internally, no way I’d ever use them in a boat..
 
Good point.. we had purchased a number of them for turnout control at the local model RR Club.. EPIC FAIL. VERY solder sensitive and just a mear hint of flux and they would fail.. (very odd)
 

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I have really been liking this switch. Specs are good and it has been working GREAT in my boat projects.

THE ISSUE.. if there is one is YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG IT at the end of the day as it has a slight parasitic draw and in time will kill your battery. Not such a big deal to me as I always unplug my battery each day anyway. (never the less it is a concern).

 
Interesting, but seems complex for something as simple as a switch… not saying it’s bad, just reinventing the wheel per say… 😁👍
It has a bigger contact area allowing higher current than the toggle switches plus nothing sticking outside hull or deck no chance of leaking. It can also be fitted without the epoxy case I make. I only make them in a case when I sell them. In my own boats I just drill a hole in hull for bolt head and epoxy over the whole thing sealing it inside.
 
I have really been liking this switch. Specs are good and it has been working GREAT in my boat projects.

THE ISSUE.. if there is one is YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG IT at the end of the day as it has a slight parasitic draw and in time will kill your battery. Not such a big deal to me as I always unplug my battery each day anyway. (never the less it is a concern).


Nice but last thing I want to do at the end of a dawn till dusk race day is pull pipes and untape 6 boats !!! 😁😁 Buckshot has a nice setup there .
 
Nice but last thing I want to do at the end of a dawn till dusk race day is pull pipes and untape 6 boats !!! 😁😁 Buckshot has a nice setup there .
I really dig the new mag type switches. But like Tom, I usually have a lot of boats (4-5) in tow when I go to a race. And I usually charge, assemble and tape them up the weekend prior to leaving and then they usually stay in the trailer for a few days when I get home before I feel like fully disassembling and cleaning them. Any draw on the battery when not in use is a "no go" for me.
Ian's switches are cool too, very robust.
One thing that makes me stay away from either is having to make sure I have an additional tool (magnet or hex key) in my pocket before and after a heat, just something else for me to lose or forget.
It's a switch.
 
Here are the ones we use. They are IP67 dust Tight, Waterproof, Knock on wood they have never let us down.
 

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