1:12 Miss Elam

[Scott Lambert]

Hi there I have a 1:12 Elam running basically standard set up.

I have put new lipo batteries in it, reprogramed to suit & put a brass 40mm prop on but now I'm after a little more speed.

It's doing about 35-40mph at a guess

I dont know if changing the esc is the way to go or doing a motor & esc?

 

[hugh hargett]

What kind of motor comes stock in that boat? Do you know the kv of your motor? How many cells are you running?

 

[Scott Lambert]

Its a A3630-1500 Water-cooled brushless, it seems okay & it's running 2 x6 cell 7.2 volt batteries.

this is the link to the Horrizon Hobby place http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/miss-elam-1-12-brushless-hydro-PRB3550#t2

It's a bit different to the nitro version I have & i'm trying to get this one going as hard

 

[hugh hargett]

A good upgrade would be a ul-1 motor

 

[Scott Lambert]

Would that bolt straight in? I was looking on the proboat website and found a 2900kv brushless motor & was thinking of a eaking 120amp or swordfish 120 Esc?

Just ordered a grim 40x57 3 Blade for something different

 

[hugh hargett]

Would that bolt straight in? I was looking on the proboat website and found a 2900kv brushless motor & was thinking of a eaking 120amp or swordfish 120 Esc?

Just ordered a grim 40x57 3 Blade for something different

I dont know anything about grim props but 2900 kv seems a little hot for 14.4 volts 41.7k unloaded. whats the diameter of your prop? Seaking or swordfish? id choose the one with the best cooling and features usb capability etc. Remember with a Hot set up you will likely need a smaller diameter or worked prop to keep your continuous amperage around

84 amps for the esc and maybe even less for your motor. Id go with a motorcan of at least 3660 dimensions.At 14.4 volts 1900-2200 kv should put you in a good place. Not burning up you equipment gives you the option to sell later and upgrade. Dont go slap a big prop on your motor esp at a high rpm unless you know the motor can turn it without burning up.

Would love to see the setup. If your current motor is not getting too hot you can step up the prop size with the same pitch a mm or two in diameter and test it. When the motor comes in too hot to hold a hand too for 20 seconds after a lap or two youve gone too far.

 

[Scott Lambert]

Its run a y535 no worries, the I put on a 40mm x 1.4 pitch prop & all good nothing to hot after about 5 so laps of full throttle...

proboat also has a 1800 or 1900kv motor for sale if i remember correctly.

What about the esc? does that need to be changed and which one would you recommend?

 

[hugh hargett]

1900 kv sounds good but id step up to a x442 on the stock motor and see if you like that.

 

[Scott Lambert]

Alright will do, what about the esc?

which one is the best one to buy? didn't know you could get them with usb in it... I have seen them with program cards but thats it

 

[hugh hargett]

No what most of them have is a usb dongle that attaches the same way your program card does. Im almost sure the swordfish has that capability. I cant say which one is best I have never had the chance too look at a swordfish but its heifei product; they may both be just different marketing strategies. I dont like to reccomend brands unless something stands out as special. I dont recieve any sponsorship from any brands so I have no particular favorite. I think all them will do pretty much what you want as long as you supply the amperage needed from the batteries,dont get it wet and aim for rms power instead of peak. Meaning if its a 120 amp speedo to safely run it Id like to be no more thans say 85 amps continuous even at that it will easily peak above or around 120amps which most esc's can handle overpeaks for small periods of time. The most valuable thing in an esc now a day is the ability to datalog and change firmware. In the right hands with a hex editor you can do alot of things with firmware.most never will but at least you have that capability. If you plan to race the boat in p -spec which it sounds like id make sure the sanctioning body in your area will accept your esc. Namba doesnt care but IMPBA has certain brand and model it has to be for pspec limited racing! If you dont care about that and you just wanted one thing to make the choice get the one with the lowest on resistance.

Oh if you get a ul-1 motor I think the fellas are saying 65 amps is all it likes to see be mindful with your props take small steps not big leaps. If you get the UL-1 motor you wont believe the amount of info you can get on setup. They are addicted to p-spec limited boats here so you will be at home.

 

[hugh hargett]

Any progress? How long is that boat?

 

[Darin Jordan]

Using the stock motor in this boat... on 4S lipo... you will notice a nice bump in speed using an ABC or Grim 42x55. I race mine using a 45x55 or X645. It's been Eagle-tree'd at 54mph... during the heat race...

Another good prop is an ABC 1616, but you'll need to work it over a bit...

 

[Christopher Moore]

Agreed with above go LIPO and a ABC 1616 worked the best on ours. LIPO is where you are going to want to go anyway. You will notice just going LIPO about a 7-10 mph bump in speed.

 

[Scott Lambert]

Sorry for a late reply Just started to pull the boat down for a little change.

The motor is out, the hull is being repaired after hitting a few rocks & leaving two small holes

going to take the rear wing off and reshape the engine cowling to look like an australian gp hydro

should take about 2 weeks to do Im hoping.

Going to cut up the cowl tomorrow night. Got new Wild Scopion 6000mAh 7.4 45c batteries to try

Also have purchase 2 x442 2 blade props with 1.4 pitch, an n442 as well as an aquacraft grimprop 40x57x3 for something different.

Ill keep you posted on how it goes

If you log onto http://www.gphydro.com/gp5%20Wasp.html

this is the boat I'm going to model it on

 

[hugh hargett]

The wasp? u know i need video :huh: lol

 

[hugh hargett]

I have a 642 and a 637 if youd like to try those.

Hugh

 

[Scott Lambert]

Okay have just cut up te cowl tonight & looked into re-shaping it..

Still a few more stress cracks in the hull to fix up on top but all going good

The hull has the rear wing removed and uprights have been taken off... It's weight has changed in a better way, weight is down by over 130 grams in just the removing the uprights!

I'll keep looking around for the motor upgrades a little later but for a video i can list a few of the real GP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpEs-QjhhHk&feature=related from about 2minutes 50 seconds is the wasp

 

[Scott Lambert]

I can update you with some pictures of how its going tonight

before we start

New battery

the holes being fixed

rear wings cut off & being filled

rear primed, ready to be sanded

now I'm going to start on the cowl reshaping that, it should look more like this

 

[Scott Lambert]

Time for an update

 

[hugh hargett]

Ok I see your vision now. Yeah after some tlc with some sandpaper you might just have something there.