Rotating fuel barb

Haven't done this in awhile a NY tricks to rotating th e plastic nipple?

I put an Allen wrench in the hole while I squeeze the base with plyers while I try to re-clock it. This works sometimes but you have be smooth. If it breaks the plastic loose and the brass tube doesn't budge, I pull it out and install a new one. Have a new one ready just in case.

Brian

Sometime they will relocate.
Most times it won’t and the air leak will cause it issues. You can use a vacuum or air pump to test for leakage. And you can install a 10-32 banjo fitting.

Just dont mess with it. New ones are $2. Buy a handfull and replace as needed.
Mike

It will almost never turn the brass insert but rather strip out a fit between the plastic elbox and the brass nipple. Sometimes you succeed and sometimes you have a leak.

Much better to yank it out and smack a new one clocked where you want it.

- or-

drill/tap for 10/32 or 5mm and thread a straight brass nipple in them. Best to clean good and epoxy the threads for positive leakproof seal.

The hole is close already but I alway drill it with #19 bit first and the tap starts easier and makes a better starting thread.

i have rotated the nipple with a pair of pliers, never broke one and have been doing this way for years, lucky or im due?

john v said:

i have rotated the nipple with a pair of pliers, never broke one and have been doing this way for years, lucky or im due?

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BOTH !!!

If you turned them you did break them, kinda.

They may not leak but you almost certainly stripped the plastic on the brass nipple splines.

It has splines you hear clicking when it rotates as it strips out the plastic. That fit is not supposed to ever be rotated.

The splines do not have any thing to do with sealing they are just to keep it indexed. If not for the splines they would be able to be rotated easily.

The brass insert is pressed the carb with a fairly tight fit so 99 out of 100 times it is not going to turn the brass in carb where you want it to but rather strip out the brass in the plastic.

The newer the plastic is the better chance you have before age and the fuel makes the plastic get brittle and it cracks when twisted and leaks.

Usually though if you test them and it doesn't leak after you do it they will not ever develope a leak.

i will have to check those fittings a little closer, thank you daniel

John, if you want to rotate them, there are better tools available, like a Hose Clamp Plier. See link below:
https://www.irwin.com/tools/pliers-adjustable-wrenches/hose-clamp-pliers
Or use a cheap wrench and put the dremel on it to make you own:


That having said, like Daniel and other saying, it will not always work.

@Daniel, i have a carb with a broken off nipple, but having a hard time getting it out. What would be the method to get it out?


Tnx.

nice, thank you paul

Clamp the brass with a small pair of vise grips @ the nose of the jaws and rotate back and forth while pulling the the fitting comes right out

B&B specialities LLC has all metal fittings for walbro carbs, simply pull the plastic brass fittings out and tap the b&b fitting home in any orientation you want it, I use a little brass hammer, first thing I do to all my carbs.

You cam also order a all metal one from Parts Wearhouse part # 128-152-1 but I think they are out right now.

XtremeRcBoats said:

That having said, like Daniel and other saying, it will not always work.

@Daniel, i have a carb with a broken off nipple, but having a hard time getting it out. What would be the method to get it out?
Tnx.

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Small ez out twists them right out everytime easily. No risk of marking the carb all up working the outside of nipple.

Thanks Daniel. I presume with a ez out you mean a screw extractor?
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Indust...=sr_1_3?keywords=Ez+Out&qid=1682788952&sr=8-3
What size did you use for the nipple?

That small one in that irwin set will work great. Tap it in the fitting first rather than just letting it thread in.

Tap it in pretty good then go over and put end of ez out in the vise. Twist and pull on carb and it will pull it right out easily.

I have a little one with fine spiral tapered threads that goes all the way to a point made in Germany that I use but any small easy out of the tapered type that will fit in should work.

Pretty small hole in the nipples so it will usually be the smallest size of any given brand of ez out.

Ordered a screw extractor set (not the one from the link) and tried it today. Got it out very easily. Thanks for the tip Daniel.

Small pair of vise grips does the same thing. Been using this method for years - no special tools needed.

Wally Duarte said:

Small pair of vise grips does the same thing. Been using this method for years - no special tools needed.

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Don't you think that is the first tool most grab up and try with first. Hence why you see so many of these posts asking for a better way to get them out. If you get it out with vise grips that is awesome but often they don't get the job done.

I used to grab them with vise grips and twist them out too but about half the time grabbing the outside of the brass would slip off a few times and then maybe even crumble the end to pieces and break off when you squeezed it tight enough to get it out and it still didn't get it out especially when it is a really tight one. Occasioally they come out pretty easy but some forget it you are not even going to get it out that way at all ever.

Knew there had to be a better way. One day after breaking off everything there was to grab I tapped a ez out in it and came out so easy instantly. Kept using that method straight from get go and have never had a single one take more than a few seconds to get out since.

Easy out works every time instantly and nothing breaking up so I can't get it out anymore.

Bet I could get 10 of them out with ez out faster than most can get 1 or 2 out with vise grips. Then if one breaks up you won't get it out at all.

If you have to use the vise grip method it is maybe good to put something in the fitting that is a tight fit if you can find it as you don't really know how tight the one your working on is going to be. Some twist out easier than others for sure. Helps to keep it from crushing and cracking off.

I get your point Dan / I was sharing my experience as I’ve removed many fittings with this method and do this with every single carb I have and currently have in service - I set/up everything I own with a water nipple to eliminate the chance of a leak. Over the years this was a problem whenever I tried to rotate a nipple sometimes it leaked and sometimes it didn’t. So everything gets a water fitting and I’ve never had a problem since. As like anything there’s always more than one way to skin a cat , and fortunately this works for me and hope it works for others in a pinch.