t bar location?

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wingnut

wingnut

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
282
Is there a kinda rule of thumb about how far the t-bar is from the collet? and also i have 5/15 brass for the stuffing tube but the next size up fits in the t-bar, am I supposed to solder a little piece of the larger to the reg size stuffing tube? plz forgive my ignorance as this is the first gasser I've built. Thanks in advance for the help
 
I take it you are running 1/4" cable? Some use a teflon liner but I use just the 5/16' brass tube so I would just solder a short piece of next size tube over it.

Brad
 
1/4" cable with no teflon liner. thanks for the advice Brad. Any idea on distance from collet to bar?
 
Carl
Here is a picture of Ron Bucks Mono for reference.
I would say about 20mm ( 3/4")

AlexIMG_0676.JPG
 
that will give you some room for a cable saver if you use one, dont rely on the tbar holding the tube in place, use some fiberglass and resin to secure the tube to the bottom of the hull, if the tbar loosens up the tube will turn and snap the cable. i am living proof it can happen
 
wingnut said:
Is there a kinda rule of thumb about how far the t-bar is from the collet? and also i have 5/15 brass for the stuffing tube but the next size up fits in the t-bar, am I supposed to solder a little piece of the larger to the reg size stuffing tube? plz forgive my ignorance as this is the first gasser I've built. Thanks in advance for the help
Click to expand...
If you can...Get the "No Bar" system By Brent Beyers it is KISS..!!
 
ya we looked at those and they are really sweet ,but we already had one on hand. def the next build tho
 
Typically, I run a separate piece of larger tubing glassed into the bottom of the hull that the cable tube slips thru...
That way if you need to maintain or replace a damaged drive tube at a race between rounds, you can drop the strut, give it a twist and the whole driveline slips out without disturbing the shaft log glassed to the hull..

just my .02.
 
Wasted wages said:
Typically, I run a separate piece of larger tubing glassed into the bottom of the hull that the cable tube slips thru...
That way if you need to maintain or replace a damaged drive tube at a race between rounds, you can drop the strut, give it a twist and the whole driveline slips out without disturbing the shaft log glassed to the hull..

just my .02.
Click to expand...

Got a picture? This idea attracts…
 
Wasted wages said:
Typically, I run a separate piece of larger tubing glassed into the bottom of the hull that the cable tube slips thru...
That way if you need to maintain or replace a damaged drive tube at a race between rounds, you can drop the strut, give it a twist and the whole driveline slips out without disturbing the shaft log glassed to the hull..

just my .02.
Click to expand...
Most likely it is a mono. The stuffing tube wouldn't be run through the bottom most likely.

T bars are a Mono thing although people will put them in anything I guess. If your going through the bottom you don't need a T bar. Most everything besides monos goes through the bottom though.

>>

The distance from collet to T bar can vary especially because you run the stuffing tube through it a ways usually. About 1/2" from collet to the end of the stuffing tube.
 
Depends on if you are running surface or sub surface drive... I have run both ways.
And with subsurface mono's I glass in a thru hull log... and then slip the drive tube thru that.

I don't run T-bars in my nitro boats, but gas motors move around quite a bit more than a nitro motor does. So some form of alignment control is needed.

I have one gas mono (surface driven) that was pre-built and it came with a Tbar.. if I were to put together a gas mono today I probably would use the
No bar system as mentioned above..
 
Wasted wages said:
Depends on if you are running surface or sub surface drive... I have run both ways.
And with subsurface mono's I glass in a thru hull log... and then slip the drive tube thru that.

I don't run T-bars in my nitro boats, but gas motors move around quite a bit more than a nitro motor does. So some form of alignment control is needed.

I have one gas mono (surface driven) that was pre-built and it came with a Tbar.. if I were to put together a gas mono today I probably would use the
No bar system as mentioned above..
Click to expand...
When was the last time you saw a mono at a heat race run sub surface drive racing competitively ? Completely different style racing with sub surface drive.

You still wouldn't go through the bottom and then use a T bar too. At least I hope. I have seen some hack builds where people have put T bars in cat's and hydro's. OMG !!! Horrible builds. Not how any of this works. Lol.

Asinine as hell when anyone builds a boat with stuffing tube sleeved through the bottom and then put a T bar on it too.
You just supported it glassing it through the bottom why would you add a T bar too. Jerry rig is what that creates. The two mounting points are fighting each other.

T bar doesn't align anything anymore than glassing in a sleeve that is aligned to crankshaft centerline.

Same with no bar setup. Fine in a mono but it was made for solid drives in boat with stuffing tube going through the bottom. How you going to expect something to work if it is going through the bottom then attaching to a mount that is on the engine. Well now you have a short piece of the stuffing tube from the bottom to the no bar fighting each other. You going to somehow leave the stuffing tube loose in the bottom where it goes through so it can move. One fix just brings up new problems. Already getting very familiar with these no bar mounts and they are great in a mono but no way you would get me to install one where the stuffing tube is going through the bottom which is every boat eligible for a solid driveline. Now your going to tweak the entire stuffing tube and the solid shaft at once when you have a good wipeout beside the two fighting eachother. I am for sure not running through the bottom with a oversized hole so it can move around like it would have to in order to work properly. You going to really jerry rig it and seal with something flexible. Sounds like a abortion to me.
 
Last edited:
Daniel's Racing said:
When was the last time you saw a mono at a heat race run sub surface drive racing competitively ? Completely different style racing with sub surface drive.

You still wouldn't go through the bottom and then use a T bar too. At least I hope. I have seen some hack builds where people have put T bars in cat's and hydro's. OMG !!! Horrible builds. Not how any of this works. Lol.

Asinine as hell when anyone builds a boat with stuffing tube sleeved through the bottom and then put a T bar on it too.
You just supported it glassing it through the bottom why would you add a T bar too. Jerry rig is what that creates. The two mounting points are fighting each other.

T bar doesn't align anything anymore than glassing in a sleeve that is aligned to crankshaft centerline.

Same with no bar setup. Fine in a mono but it was made for solid drives in boat with stuffing tube going through the bottom. How you going to expect something to work if it is going through the bottom then attaching to a mount that is on the engine. Well now you have a short piece of the stuffing tube from the bottom to the no bar fighting each other. You going to somehow leave the stuffing tube loose in the bottom where it goes through so it can move. One fix just brings up new problems. Already getting very familiar with these no bar mounts and they are great in a mono but no way you would get me to install one where the stuffing tube is going through the bottom which is every boat eligible for a solid driveline. Now your going to tweak the entire stuffing tube and the solid shaft at once when you have a good wipeout beside the two fighting eachother. I am for sure not running through the bottom with a oversized hole so it can move around like it would have to in order to work properly. You going to really jerry rig it and seal with something flexible. Sounds like a abortion to me.
Click to expand...
Ok....got it all out of your system??
I don't do Jerry rigging.

First off, I have very competitively raced with sub service drive mono's.... All Husselcraft mono's originally ran sub surface... Leroy Huss designed and set them up that way.. He watched hundreds of youngbloods, oval masters, many other boats spin out flip, go backwards down the course all sorts of crazy stunts with surface driven boats.
Leroy was determined to make his hulls work...and they did. I wish he was still building hulls today...

I was one of the first in the club to break tradition and setup a 90 Husselcraft with surface drive.. I won District 7 F mono high points with it...I still have it and will put up against anything in heat racing F mono class.
I still have several Husselcraft mono's....all different sizes, all are set up with subsurface drive except my 90 mono.

Second,, I NEVER RECOMMENDED OR REMOTELY SUGESSESTED that anyone use a thru hull shaft setup with a T-bar.
Only that my subsurface drive tube is sleeved for ease of repair if damaged...

My gas mono's,,, yes they are surface drive and have T-bars...I followed the setup that my first gas boat came with... the entire boat was built by Chris Herzog of Hurricane monos as a RTR boat..and I'm **** sure Chris knows how to build a boat..
 
Easy there man.

Must have seemed strange that you never having said any of those things because I was not referring to you much past the first sentence about a subsurface drive.

I was just discussing drivelines in general with no particular build in mind and certainly not yours.

I have no idea what you do or how you build. I will tell you though I have seen LOTS of professionally built boats that were nothing short of abortions that were just horrible that people had paid top dollar to have done.
 
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