PETG in 3D Printing

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Firstly.. I am absolutely not a resin guy.. I have them here at work and they are the LAST machines I reach for.. (they STINK!)..LOL

Then.. back to the PETG -AND- Cura.. I and thinking we have nobody else here having optimized it. (And.. then.. I have a Creality CR10-V3)

The prints I have are NOT BAD.. but not quite as nice as PLA.. (I have PLA TUNNED!) but.. would like to do the same with PETG.. and I am just trying to get a convo around that setup.

Thanks for those that added.

Grim
 
I have a goal of getting to Nylon. Although, it does seem like a nightmare to get set-up and keep running. I am not sure I print enough stuff to warrant the headaches.

I have read good feedback on the Prusament PC Carbon Blend. That might be my next step.
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-carbon-fiber-black-800g-2/
Whats nice about nylon is its super strong and tough, and you can dye it to whatever color you want.. whats bad about it is its a nightmare. if your going to attempt it, you MUST have an enclosure around your printer.
 
Firstly.. I am absolutely not a resin guy.. I have them here at work and they are the LAST machines I reach for.. (they STINK!)..LOL

Then.. back to the PETG -AND- Cura.. I and thinking we have nobody else here having optimized it. (And.. then.. I have a Creality CR10-V3)

The prints I have are NOT BAD.. but not quite as nice as PLA.. (I have PLA TUNNED!) but.. would like to do the same with PETG.. and I am just trying to get a convo around that setup.

Thanks for those that added.

Grim
I use petg for everything demanding strenght , so mostly smaller parts , i habe am ender 3 set up for petg , there are some options , you can use original hot end but then tou ned to upgrade to capricorn feeder tube , and i got better results before i upgradet to direct drive by using heatbreak with capricorn tube indside it installed from factory , nomatter if you use direct drive or stock setup you ned to increase retract to avoid stringing , not so easy as pla just to burn away , heat is depending on the brand you use , i just bought a lot on the hobbyking sale i run 245/70 on it with good results , but in inclosure , another must have , my printer is inside the house but im from denmark so cold drafts and like that is unwanted , anothe thing is speed , forums will give you lot of different answers depending on upgrades and setup , some will say go as slow as 30ms , i normally run 50ms , with that speed i can still make usuable gears and other mechanical pieces that fits and functions .
Im running a microswiss direct drive now and i have to say it makes better prints , more stable , less clogging , and i didnt even upgradet to dual z drive even with the addet weight , but it will be done at some point , made my cr10s pro more precise , but i use a prima creator steel flex bed , make every petg print stick like crazy.
Im no magician when it comes to printing , but just ask if you have question and i will reply if i can , maybe you can help me also , have only been printing for about 6 7 years now.
 
i only print petg at this point, i use prusament PETG and print on a prusa mini, i just run the profiles in prusa slicer and it just works, if possible dowlaod prusa slicer and use it and profiles for the CR10.
like Raydee says dry it or keep it in a dry box and you should have little to no problems
 

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