Gas/ oil mix advice

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Matt Davis

Matt Davis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
38
I'm currently waiting for my Bonzi Fountain 64 with a fully built 30cc billet engine to.be built and I've asked them some questions over the phone and they said 5-6 Oz per gallon of Amsoil saber pro synthetic was perfect for their products. I bought a case of it in anticipation because it was on sale , but everywhere I've read on the forum guys are running 8-10 Oz per gallon. Should I listen to the engine builders? Or do they just want another 800+$ when the newbie explodes it lol. I've also read alot of av fuel and camp fuel mixtures , but that kinda scares me being a novice but you all have been doing this for quite a while and I'd rather per safe than sorry😊 I apologize in advance if I'm opening a wormhole for controversy lol and guidance is very much so appreciated!
 
Eight to 10 oz per gallon will result in an increase in power and better big end life. The 8 ounce value was accidentally discovered when Mike Hoffmeister and Mathew Waldron mixed oil into their gasoline twice. More oil gives a better seal. The power increase has been measured on dynos. Increasing over 8 oz has been advocated as engine rpm increased and big end bearings started to fail. It's a stop gap measure but doesn't reduce power. We've tested up to 13 oz per gallon without a measurable change in power.

Lohring Miller
 
LohringMiller said:
Eight to 10 oz per gallon will result in an increase in power and better big end life. The 8 ounce value was accidentally discovered when Mike Hoffmeister and Mathew Waldron mixed oil into their gasoline twice. More oil gives a better seal. The power increase has been measured on dynos. Increasing over 8 oz has been advocated as engine rpm increased and big end bearings started to fail. It's a stop gap measure but doesn't reduce power. We've tested up to 13 oz per gallon without a measurable change in power.

Lohring Miller
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There isn't a risk of running too rich with said mixtures? And does it perform as well at lower rpms to avoid stalling ? Sorry if it's silly questions I'd rather be safe than sorry
 
also something to think about, some say to use non synthetic oil to break in there motors then switch to synthetic . i have heard different versions that the full syn oil doesnt allow the motor to fully break in? lots of posts about this one. in all dont be afraid to ask questions , this is what we are here for. some good advice, if there is a local club running races in your area its worth a trip to go and introduce yourself, seeing how things are done verses reading is a big advantage. good luck with your build
 
john v said:
also something to think about, some say to use non synthetic oil to break in there motors then switch to synthetic . i have heard different versions that the full syn oil doesnt allow the motor to fully break in? lots of posts about this one. in all dont be afraid to ask questions , this is what we are here for. some good advice, if there is a local club running races in your area its worth a trip to go and introduce yourself, seeing how things are done verses reading is a big advantage. good luck with your build
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Thank you ! Sadly there isn't a near club but I'm going to travel to the motor city club, I have nonsynthetic purpose made break in oil for the first gallon or two before switching over
 
Matt Davis said:
Thank you ! Sadly there isn't a near club but I'm going to travel to the motor city club, I have nonsynthetic purpose made break in oil for the first gallon or two before switching over
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my local club is 2 hrs away, dist race this weekend, 5hrs away. defitnitly nothing close but worth the trip in gaining knolledge. all my gas boats i have been using maxima castor929 for close to 20 years and no oil related failures at 8oz to a gal. ask 50 racers and you will get 50 different answers. always here to help, dont be afraid to ask questions, we dont charge much for answers
 
john v said:
my local club is 2 hrs away, dist race this weekend, 5hrs away. defitnitly nothing close but worth the trip in gaining knolledge. all my gas boats i have been using maxima castor929 for close to 20 years and no oil related failures at 8oz to a gal. ask 50 racers and you will get 50 different answers. always here to help, dont be afraid to ask questions, we dont charge much for answers
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I'm sure what anyone could charge is less than another fully built billet engine 😬🤣 I'm not so much interested in racing more so a good group of people ripping about fun running
 
the german said:
Like Grim said ........ 1 gallon of Coleman or Crown camp light fluid mixed with 10 ounce of Redline 2 stroke oil and you are good to go. No eating up the diaphragm seal like pump gas.
Just my opinion.

Alex
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Even rec-90 ethonal free eats them? I thought the ethonal was the part that messes ot up not gas in general?
 
Matt Davis said:
Even rec-90 ethonal free eats them? I thought the ethonal was the part that messes ot up not gas in general?
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LOWER OCTAIN!.. you really dont want 90 in the boat.

.. give it a go and see how the boat tunes.. if you dont like it go to 90!
 
Hmmm, Zenoah has a product line to protect and have their own recommendations. 😁

Complete disregard for the recommendations.

Well I don't believe what I am reading. It says higher than 90 but you say 50 something.

Oh only Futaba products need to follow the recommendations.

Joking but you know what I am saying.

SeUWxJ5.jpg
 
Just a little side note……. Breaking in procedure by Henry Velasco …….. Start the brand new gas motor …….launch the boat ……. Half throttle to turn 1 …… exit turn 1 full throttle and drive the boat like you stole it till the tank is empty !!!!!
I witnessed his break in procedure several times and I think he knows “ motors” 😂😂😂

Alex
 
Once again we tested a lot of fuels and oils on our dyno. The bottom line is that on a low compression, fixed ignition and pipe the only thing you can change is the mixture. Because of that the type of oil and most fuels won't make a power difference. None of the cheater fuels helped either.

Lohring Miller
 

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TIme to listen to Lohring and just move on. The graphs are all the same basically. No difference. I run 10 oz with white gas (coleman or what ever brand Walmart is selling now). I cant stand the smell of regular gas so it suit me fine.
Mike
 
There is nothing that needs breaking in but the ring. The engine is all ball and needle bearing so nothing to break in there.

The ring transverses the ports better at speed but it needs a good load on it to seat in best.

Never let a new engine idle. Get it in the water and working.
 
Daniel's Racing said:
There is nothing that needs breaking in but the ring. The engine is all ball and needle bearing so nothing to break in there.

The ring transverses the ports better at speed but it needs a good load on it to seat in best.

Never let a new engine idle. Get it in the water and working.
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Would it be acceptable to do about half throttle in my pool while holding it to make sure the carb is halfway decently tuned to avoid a stall on the maiden run? That would be load on the engine and the water pump should keep it a decent temp with the 2 in 2 out head? Or just head to the lake and get my floaties out just in case? Lol
 
if you tell us what carb you have there is a good chance we can tell you what needle setings to start with. stamped on the side of the carb should be a number, 257, 929, 1048, something like this
 

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