Is there an easy way to do this?

dr gary turner said:

The way to check a tank is to:
Fill it up completely and DONT PUMP IT DRY, BUT let it siphon into a jug and watch for bubbles and it should siphon almost dry if not you may have a crack in a brass tube or rubber leaks with plastic tanks.

Also look for water leaks. Use a large syringe and push water in the water line at the disconnected water line with finger over the final exit tube. Push under pressure.

Had a somewhat a similar problem at the Cincinnati race recently and it was a water leak.

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Hydro Junkie said:

Okay guys, I'll answer each of your questions separately:

• Sam, the plugs looked fine and , with one exception, lit right up when an igniter was applied
• Terry, it's never had one and never had an issue before though I do have one I will try this weekend
• Don, the engine has only got maybe 15-20 engine starts on it total, including this past weekend so they "should" be still good. I'll be using a different engine this weekend as the one I ran last weekend had the upper carb screw break on me. Ended up borrowing a front plate to keep running that I have to return so, if the engine does the same thing, I can assume it has to be a fuel issue.

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Wasted wages said:

But he did run at a lower elevation (1200ft )
the week before. With the change in elevation, the air is thinner...
less volume of air.

Taking out a thin shim may be all it takes to compensate for the change.
Or prop down a little bit..

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Wasted wages said:

But he did run at a lower elevation (1200ft )
the week before. With the change in elevation, the air is thinner...
less volume of air.

Taking out a thin shim may be all it takes to compensate for the change.
Or prop down a little bit..

Click to expand...

• Irene Rinehart Riverfront Park is at 1500ft, race was two weeks ago with a temperature of 85 degrees
• Gissberg Twin Lakes Park is at 113ft, race was last weekend and temperature was 75 degrees

dr gary turner said:

The way to check a tank is to:
Fill it up completely and DONT PUMP IT DRY, BUT let it siphon into a jug and watch for bubbles and it should siphon almost dry if not you may have a crack in a brass tube or rubber leaks with plastic tanks.

Also look for water leaks. Use a large syringe and push water in the water line at the disconnected water line with finger over the final exit tube. Push under pressure.

Had a somewhat a similar problem at the Cincinnati race recently and it was a water leak.

Click to expand...

Mike Hughes said:

50 is pretty fat for a 67. Like Doc said look for those bubbles. You can still pump them dry and still have a leak. When the run came back, was the second tank full. I have also had water lines that got a small piece of tubing blocking the line. The chunk of tubing got cut off while pressing it on to the hard water line.
Mike

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Hydro Junkie said:

Actually, you got it backwards

• Irene Rinehart Riverfront Park is at 1500ft, race was two weeks ago with a temperature of 85 degrees
• Gissberg Twin Lakes Park is at 113ft, race was last weekend and temperature was 75 degrees

I did that, believe it or not, by accident. When I was working on my engine, I had inadvertently left the fuel line in the bottom of the boat. When I went to reinstall the engine, I found the second 10 uunce tank was half empty and the forward part of the engine bay was filled with fuel. I'm assuming it was partially due to the fact the rear of the boat was propped up like in the picture above

Front tank never got below full, rear tank was always the one that showed a lower quantity. When the engine was disconnected from the fuel line, the rear tank was the one that showed a reduced quantity when fuel ran into the engine bay

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1. Pressure tap
2. Pressure line
3. Rear tank
4. Front tank
5. Fuel delivery line
6. Carb fuel inlet fitting

Hydro Junkie said:

Rick, the fuel set up is a pretty much straight forward series set up. From pressure tap on the pipe to the carb is as follows:

1. Pressure tap
2. Pressure line
3. Rear tank
4. Front tank
5. Fuel delivery line
6. Carb fuel inlet fitting

The tanks are mounted under the deck on the left side, side by side, with a large line connecting them. The tanks are both Sullivan slant 10 ounce so there's no hopper/sump tank. The forward tank performs that function as well with the tanks located beside the tuned pipe's forward end.
As for the accidental siphon test, it was the rear tank that was half empty so, as fuel ran into the engine bay, the rear tank was feeding the front tank. Can't answer the other question since I wasn't really looking to see if fuel was running out of the fuel line.

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Norm Doerr said:

All very good suggestions from some solid experienced racers/boaters. I would take all of that as part of the plan. Also suggest to run a tank of fuel from a fresh new jug.

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• pulling the back plate off the engine and replacing it with one off another one of my engines that has a bad head on it. Would have just replaced the head but the bearings feel rough and it is very noisy, even without a glow plug in it
• Flushing out the pipe and muffler with IPA and Brakleen

• some blue Locktite, out of stock at the supplier(found a big 1.2 ounce bottle of Permatex Blue Threadlocker for $30 at a NAPA a few miles away)
• some brass tubing to rework the fuel tanks, again, out of stock at the supplier so the tanks will have to wait. I do have some "multifuel" rebuild kits but the tubes are too short to work for the pick ups.

• yes, I've run the rear tank dry and was close to empty on the front(feed tank) several times over the years.
• yes, the pick ups are in the left rear corner when the tanks are in the boat