Radio box fire

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mark Bullard

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
1,777
I was at the race outside of Cincinnati last weekend. After the second round I needed to reset my course needle on my mixture control. So in doing that I forgot and left the radio on in the boat. Setting there for about an hour I notice a smell that I often smell of electrical burning. Thought I saw a little puff of smoke from the boat also. Felt the radio box lid and it had a warm feeling. In stripping the tape off a little smoke left the box. Pulled the battery out fast and disconnected it. Oh well I would just fix it the next morning before I ran the third round, but with the rain and lighting the third round never came so I loaded it up and brought it home. Yesterday I got into it. Switch, receiver, and a servo. One of my small servos had got hot enought to short the wires where they come in across the board inside the servo. This in turn went to the receiver then the switch and battery. We have had this happen one time before with the same kind of results.
Digital servos are great for power and position. But they do draw about as much current setting idle as the do moving. Therefore this is why the heat built up over time cause the wires to short. The old analog servos when the position is found the current drop to almost nothing unless something trys to move it out of its position. These servos are very small and do not have much room inside. So it is each to have this kind of problem maybe one out of a hunfred on these small servos.
I removed all servos and cleanup the inside of the box. Check all of the servos. found the rudder servo was ok the plug was melt a little but ok. The mixture servo was ok but the plug was melted so badly that I had to cut the wires a little from the receiver. The receive was good but the case was toast and the antenna was melted off at the case. So just going to replace the switch, both small servos, receiver, and of course the battery.
Being in the electric motor repair bussiness we always say when we open a burn up motor "It smells like money". So in opening up the radio box on that boat, that statemant stands true.
 

Attachments

  • ATT00001.jpg
    ATT00001.jpg
    893.2 KB · Views: 4
  • KIMG2060.JPG
    KIMG2060.JPG
    895.9 KB · Views: 2
  • KIMG2061.JPG
    KIMG2061.JPG
    899.8 KB · Views: 2
Just curious if you use any of the failsafes on the boat ? on the throttle that burnt up ?

If you leave a boat on and don't have the transmitter on to then the throttle failsafe may/could be pulling hard on linkage and smoking the servo. Always want to make sure the braking is turned down so not pulling hard when your braking and/or when setting the failsafe position be sure it is not in a hard pull of any type. It can fry a servo while flipped upside down in the water and failsafe is triggered.

If you have a system where all boats bind to transmitter the same so if you leave boat on and then switch to a new model it will smoke what's in the boat you left on because the new model has put servo's in boat you left on going places they may not be able to go. The throttle is likely pulling or pushing on the carb with another models settings.
 
Last edited:
I have had this happen in a run when a brushless high torque servo went south, I had a actual fire in my box, servo went to full right rudder, it was a Savox servo, will never run one again, I know guys love them, but only Futaba, Hitech, or Spectrum for me, I had it destroy switch, receiver and full meltdown of case on steering servo, I have thought about inline fuses we use them in the real world to protect us, im thinking 4-5amp should be plenty, also had it fry battery in the radio box in a backlash gas boat, could have burnt whole boat down.
 
Just curious if you use any of the failsafes on the boat ? on the throttle that burnt up ?

If you leave a boat on and don't have the transmitter on to then the throttle failsafe may/could be pulling hard on linkage and smoking the servo. Always want to make sure the braking is turned down so not pulling hard when your braking and/or when setting the failsafe position be sure it is not in a hard pull of any type. It can fry a servo while flipped upside down in the water and failsafe is triggered.

If you have a system where all boats bind to transmitter the same so if you leave boat on and then switch to a new model it will smoke what's in the boat you left on because the new model has put servo's in boat you left on going places they may not be able to go. The throttle is likely pulling or pushing on the carb with another models settings.
Your very right on the failsafes. I am sort of old school on radio install. My linkage is right within the endpoints most of the time. And subtrim at 0. But after installing the new servos after the clean up. I notice that my endpoints were at 100% after I link the new receiver. I am guessing that the transmitter defaulted back on the endpoints when I linked the receiver. But hook up a ohm meter to the system so that I could read the amps and saw some things. With the radio setting idle the system ran about 150 ma, not bad. When I work a function it would pop up to about 400 ma for less than a second. There again not bad. I had to reset the failsafe also. So I had to set the carb closing side endpoint down a bit because I did not need the barrel going around that much. Wide open was at 100% endpoint. This is the way I set them up. So I set the endpoint to where the barrel was just closed. I turned the transmitter off to test and wow. The current wen to about 1.75 amps. On looking at what was going on, when the barrel closed the rod connection on the arm of the servo was binding on the case of the servo. This is what was pushing the current up. So I back off the endpoint a little more and the current dropped back down to the the normal 150 ma.
So I am guessing that when I set the failsafe I did now look at the servo to see what it was doing. And without have a meter connected to the system you would never catch it. I would say on setting up a new boat that you should check the current of the radio to make sure you don't have that kind of thing going. It is very easy to do. The best way is to take a servo ext cable and pull the wires apart in the middle so that you can cut the power wire in the middle. The power is always the middle wire most the time it is red. Any go ohm meter will read up 10 amps DC. You plug in the test leads to the right position on the meter for reading amps, set the meter to amps. Now connect the red lead to the red cut wire from the battery side, then connect the black lead to the other red cut wire going to the receiver. This will allow you to check your setup.

Here are some pictures after the cleanup with the install complete. I must say the it cleanup pretty good.
 

Attachments

  • KIMG2064.JPG
    KIMG2064.JPG
    878 KB · Views: 1
  • KIMG2065.JPG
    KIMG2065.JPG
    880.6 KB · Views: 0
  • KIMG2066.JPG
    KIMG2066.JPG
    869.4 KB · Views: 2
I had bad experience with BlackBird 21 Same me in happen before so looked bad burn switch harness from LiFe cause servo faults
 
Last edited:
In the end.. I have VERY HIGHLY doubt that "digital" was responsible for this.. it does however seem, and I would bet.. you have a servo quality issue!

Grim
 
That cleaned up pretty good Mark, looks like it could have gotten out of hand quickly..

Stories like this still convince me that all of the new radio technology is not so great...
I've never heard of fires in radio boxes with the old FM analog stuff...but time marches on I guess...
 
I have.. I have nuked a radio box some 30 years ago! Cost me a full redo in the box. A wire failed and shorted out in on the battery. I have no idea how. This was in the old JR days..

The real lesson is it can and does happen in all eras or RC.

Grim
 
In the end.. I have VERY HIGHLY doubt that "digital" was responsible for this.. it does however seem, and I would bet.. you have a servo quality issue!

Grim
Well it not that digital had anything to do with this. Because the analog servo and the digital would do the same thing. Now the digital would be a little highter current than the analog but I am sure the end results would br the same. It was not servo quality, any servo would do this.
In setting up the failsafe I just did not look at the servo itself to make sure that there was not a problem. I was only looking at the barrel of the carb. But when the radio went to failsafe and the barrel rotated to closed I had it going to far so that the screw that held the rod ball link to the servo arm was jamming the servo case. With the servo trying to push to the position it was ask for and could not make it. This is where the current of 1.75 amp was coming from. I change the endpoint 5 numbers and the current dropped to 150 ma. So I went another 5 numbers to be on the safe side.
 
Very informative post. Grim since you have been involved in the RC business has there been any talk of devices that would turn of all the power in the system with no inputs in say 5 minutes? For me adjusting the end points has been a priority since most setups will need it for sure. As I have gotten older and my hearing has gotten worse people have heard my radio, Hitec, beeping and reminded me to turn it off. My Hitec TX beeps if no input is made within a few minutes.
 
Timothy,

For the TX yes.. for the RX not that I know of.

The transmitters now days Have total travel volume and EPA.. they are not necessarily the same thing. I would have to go back and look at this closer because I might be crossing up my air systems with my ground systems.. (old age)

Grim
 
Very informative post. Grim since you have been involved in the RC business has there been any talk of devices that would turn of all the power in the system with no inputs in say 5 minutes? For me adjusting the end points has been a priority since most setups will need it for sure. As I have gotten older and my hearing has gotten worse people have heard my radio, Hitec, beeping and reminded me to turn it off. My Hitec TX beeps if no input is made within a few minutes.

You would not want any device capable of cutting power in the transmitter or the receiver. That is asking for a problem if when that device would fails.

Like putting a fuse in your receiver switch assembly. Could prevent a total meltdown but if it blew for any other reason than a dead short(that would crash you anyhow)then you crash.

You are adding another element of total failure to the assemblies.

Futaba has low voltage cutoff in their LiFe transmitter batteries. You couldn't pay me to use one. Bad idea. Who cares if your battery is ruined from your stupid mistake. Better than crashing the whole boat if battery suddenly dipped into cutoff zone. You want nothing between your pack and your transmitter or receiver capable of chopping the power from the pack,
 
Just be be clear.. Futaba LiFe Transmitter battery's have an "Over Current" protection system that WILL shut down the battery if they determine a short has occurred..

Grim
 
Just be be clear.. Futaba LiFe Transmitter battery's have an "Over Current" protection system that WILL shut down the battery if they determine a short has occurred..

Grim
Yes yes. I forgot but knew it was something you didn't want in your radio box. Fuse in transmitter makes no difference. If it blows it was for a reason that would have also have taken out the system if the fuse wasn't there. Fire prevention. Lol.
 
Your very right on the failsafes. I am sort of old school on radio install. My linkage is right within the endpoints most of the time. And subtrim at 0. But after installing the new servos after the clean up. I notice that my endpoints were at 100% after I link the new receiver. I am guessing that the transmitter defaulted back on the endpoints when I linked the receiver. But hook up a ohm meter to the system so that I could read the amps and saw some things. With the radio setting idle the system ran about 150 ma, not bad. When I work a function it would pop up to about 400 ma for less than a second. There again not bad. I had to reset the failsafe also. So I had to set the carb closing side endpoint down a bit because I did not need the barrel going around that much. Wide open was at 100% endpoint. This is the way I set them up. So I set the endpoint to where the barrel was just closed. I turned the transmitter off to test and wow. The current wen to about 1.75 amps. On looking at what was going on, when the barrel closed the rod connection on the arm of the servo was binding on the case of the servo. This is what was pushing the current up. So I back off the endpoint a little more and the current dropped back down to the the normal 150 ma.
So I am guessing that when I set the failsafe I did now look at the servo to see what it was doing. And without have a meter connected to the system you would never catch it. I would say on setting up a new boat that you should check the current of the radio to make sure you don't have that kind of thing going. It is very easy to do. The best way is to take a servo ext cable and pull the wires apart in the middle so that you can cut the power wire in the middle. The power is always the middle wire most the time it is red. Any go ohm meter will read up 10 amps DC. You plug in the test leads to the right position on the meter for reading amps, set the meter to amps. Now connect the red lead to the red cut wire from the battery side, then connect the black lead to the other red cut wire going to the receiver. This will allow you to check your setup.

Here are some pictures after the cleanup with the install complete. I must say the it cleanup pretty good.
Wire resting on the driveline (heat) has given me trouble. I see you have one like that. Just my 2 cents.
 
yes.. TRANSMITTER ONLY PACKS!.. not sure its a fuse per say.. but acts similar.

Grim
 

Latest posts

Back
Top