Another Lower Unit Option?

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T
I buy the same shafts from Hyperformance as anyone can buy, "K&B" size 45 flexshafts. The ones I send with the drive are the same ones I sell as replacements. They should be 100% compatible. Ditto for the OS, K&B-20 and Thunder Tiger sizes that I sell. I tried, and had a very bad experience with, Chinese-made flexshafts, so I'm 100% domestic sourced.
Thnx for information
 
If you put this drive on a G 30 just remember the hinge pin bracket is not offset. The mounting bracket ends up too high on the transit
Any idea how much it needs to be offset? I've got a TFL that I was planning on putting on a G30. Should I plan to find another outboard lower end or is there hope?
 
I run the TFL V2 outboard leg behind my 33" FE tunnel. The design is different from the V1 shown in this topic, see below:

20210206_091528.jpg

20210206_092350.jpg
20210206_092802.jpg

The adapter plate on top is intended for 36 to 40 size electric motors. I run a 3674 1650kV on 6S.

I only ran it 5 times so far, so I cannot say anything about durability. I did change the hinge pin, because the original had too much tolerance.

I'm happy with the quality so far. I don't race my boats, just run them for fun.
 
I run the TFL V2 outboard leg behind my 33" FE tunnel. The design is different from the V1 shown in this topic, see below:

View attachment 300466

View attachment 300468
View attachment 300469

The adapter plate on top is intended for 36 to 40 size electric motors. I run a 3674 1650kV on 6S.

I only ran it 5 times so far, so I cannot say anything about durability. I did change the hinge pin, because the original had too much tolerance.

I'm happy with the quality so far. I don't race my boats, just run them for fun.
Any update on this V2 lower? I’m thinking about getting one. It looks like a nice slimline version of an OS.
 
Any update on this V2 lower? I’m thinking about getting one. It looks like a nice slimline version of an OS.
I got 16 lipo runs through the leg now. The 15th run, the teflon tube around the flex shaft split. I replaced it and now it's running fine again.
I broke 1 flex shaft, after the teflon tube split. It might be related.
20220514_191748.jpg

The brass bearing holding the prop shaft has minimal play after 16 runs.

I did change the original flex shaft and motor coupler, directly after the first run. The original flex shaft is very stiff. I replaced it with a more flexible one, combined with a clamping coupler:
20211019_194037.jpg
I also filed the front of the leg tapered, instead of rounded, for reducing the water resistance.
20220522_173919.jpg
I run aggressive props: 44mm 1.4 pitch 3 blade, 44mm 1.6 pitch 2 blade and more.
If you have any questions, let me know.
 
I for the LIFE of me have no understanding why MFGs keep making the motor mount as a simple hinge plate.. OS has set the standard and others NEED TO FOLLOW or... get there cavitation plates blown off come race day!!!!
 
I couldn't catch the design flaw. Could you please explain a little more? Is it the motor mount, the cavitation plate, or both?
 
The fundamental difference is in how the drive swings with the two styles of hinge. With K&B and any other hinge like it, including my Lawless Drive, the hinge pin changes its vertical aspect as the angle of the drive is changed. The more the drive angle is adjusted, the more the back end of the drive dips (or rises) going through the swing arc, with the lowest or highest point being when the drive is straight. With the OS Style, the angle of the drive can be changed without altering the angle of the hinge pin, so regardless of the angle setting, the drive swings flat through the full arc of motion. Purists will argue that the rise/fall of the standard hinge style has a major effect on the performance of the boat. I will grant that with a standard hinge and a negative angle, the prop is lower in the water at dead center than at full swing. But I would mention that there are numerous other issues that come into play besides a, perhaps, 1/8" difference in how much prop is in the water. On a dead calm pond, one boat, going around a course with an OS style hinge, might (and I stress might) perform better compared to running a K&B style hinge. But when you have less than smooth water, multiple boats causing ripples and wakes, it just doesn't seem to me that there would be much of a noticeable difference. Just my opinion.
 
Thank you for your explanation! The theory makes sense.
I'm just running my boats for fun, so for me it does not matter much. I do like to learn about the engineering behind (I'm an engineer), so it is nice to read the theories.
 
After 30 years of outboard racing and all of those with B class outboards.. yes.. its a HUGE advantage. pin inclination is just as important as stub angle.

IN ALL WATER conditions.

Removing or in this case.. NOT HAVING.. the chance to change pin inclination FROM stub shaft is odd to me. Can they work. sure, ........work well... well not as well as with..... but with all KNOWN.. why would one NOT allow pin adjustment sperate when designing a NEW lower unit?

Then...I really liked my Lawless when I was running one.. good product with GREAT SUPPORT Fred. I really like the product!.. the reason I changed however we solely due to pin adjustment. Please take no offence!.. this post was not about your lower.. we know it has a great reputation and has been on the market for a number of years successfully.. this is about that Chinese lower in the heading of this topic. Just seems SO STRANGE to me that if one is to come out with a new lower that they would not include this.. (chances are they just don't know the advantage)

Choose your weapon and TEST TEST TEST!

Grim
 

Attachments

  • 20220121_164558.jpg
    20220121_164558.jpg
    919.9 KB · Views: 1
Who use to make the VISION outboard hull? He told me what mount to use. It was the best advice ever.
 
Back
Top