Wire drive

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I have tested a self made 3mm wire drive on a SAW FE motor that had about 15hp run through it with no issues. The weak points are the coupler and the stub shaft bond. Brent's setup is nicer than my homemade one so I would not have any serious concerns. You can always add a 1/8" ID shaft saver collar on the motor end for a little extra insurance.
 
I have been running the wire drives from Brent for many years now and have not had one fail yet. This is on .80, .91, 1.01, 26cc, 30.5cc in hydros, outriggers and monos without failure. Others have had the same success, it is a proven system if installed correctly. Most do not install correctly and then blame the product.
 
Buckshot said:
I have been running the wire drives from Brent for many years now and have not had one fail yet. This is on .80, .91, 1.01, 26cc, 30.5cc in hydros, outriggers and monos without failure. Others have had the same success, it is a proven system if installed correctly. Most do not install correctly and then blame the product.
Click to expand...
I wonder that do need oiler onto the stuffed tube ? Or put lube grease on wire drive ? What kind of grease? Let me know thanks
 
RaceMechaniX said:
I have tested a self made 3mm wire drive on a SAW FE motor that had about 15hp run through it with no issues. The weak points are the coupler and the stub shaft bond. Brent's setup is nicer than my homemade one so I would not have any serious concerns. You can always add a 1/8" ID shaft saver collar on the motor end for a little extra insurance.
Click to expand...
What kind of metal for wire drive ? Easy get rust ? Let me know thanks
 
The strut bearing set up on any of my boats that are running wire drives (all of them are) is I use four ball bearing, two on each end of the strut, with a ring about 1/8 inch long made of brass tubing soldered to the stub shaft just in front of the forward set of bearings. This prevents the stub shaft from sliding out of the strut bearings. Just behind the forward set of strut bearings, I install a small screw threaded through one side of the strut that protrudes only about one thread inside the strut. This prevents the forward set of bearings from sliding out of the strut.

It does not make any difference what kind of drive line failure that you have, broken cable, broken wire drive, ect, the combination of the brass ring on the stub shaft and the screw in the side of the strut will prevent the stub shaft from coming out of the strut.

This has been a "Bullet Proof" setup for me. I have not lost a single stub shaft or prop since I began using this system.

Charles
 
Buckshot said:
I pump a little castor oil in the stuffing tube before each day then lube the strut every two-three runs. Brent's wires will corrode quickly if the wire is left in the stuffing tube at the end of the day.
Click to expand...
Good thanks for info
 
I make my own wire drives. The latest is in my 1/10TH scale winston. i use a normal brass bushing at the strut. I have 2 bearing that support the shaft until it get to coupler. These are attach to the wire equally spaced. I just use some CA blobs either side of the bearing to keep it in place. There is a gap to the blobs. So the bearing can float. As I am putting the drive into the stuffing tube, I load it with oil. It is a nice barrier to the water side. At the end of the day I pull it out and wipe it down. I am just using standard .078 piano wire.
 
Any other options other than Brent?
I have emailed him 5 times and cannot seem to get much of a response from him other than he will call me, but never does.

Shame it sounds like the ideal product. I may have to invent the wheel myself...
 
ALLAN YUEN said:
I wonder that do need oiler onto the stuffed tube ? Or put lube grease on wire drive ? What kind of grease? Let me know thanks
Click to expand...
The aluminum tube has 2 delrin bushing inside so the wire isn't flopping around he recommend to just cover the wire with oil no grease and that's it mine works great a bit of a rpm bump from a flex shaft definitely worth it
 
Danny King said:
If the alignment is right. They are plenty strong enough.
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Danny King said:
The wire is the way forward. As long as it’s a nearly straight shaft. Most riggers are fine. Many monos won’t work good and a gas cat would be really hard.
it is rather amazing the chemical bond works but it does
Click to expand...
I figured the wire shaft would need to be nearly straight. And locktite is actually used to bond the wire to the stub-shaft? I figure the stub-shaft must have a very tight bore for the wire I.D. ?
 
The drive bend in many modern riggers is fine for a wire drive.
Some guys are using loctite to attach the stub to the wire. And the clearance is close and important and will vary depending who you ask. And is held close by those doing it. After all they did have to figure it out.
 

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