Vintage NORCO EAGLET...

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Hi Rey,

This was an Eaglet. Bob had built it, but it just wasn’t competitive at that point. From what I remember the Prather and Scheoff (not sure on spelling) boats were the ones to beat in that area in district 9. I had good success with my Scheoff boat. I actually still have a very nice Monokai that I bought off EBay a few years back.

Any idea what happened to Art?

Please say hi and give my best to Chelsea for me.

Best regards,

Will
Digging an old thread up... @Will Gallagher , do you still happen to have your monokai? I used to have one with a slightly modded Veco .19 when I worked for Charlie Pottle at Marine specialties in Saratoga, CA back in 1976. I'd love to find another or at least build one up. Originally bought it new from Gary Johnson and ran it at at the perf ponds near Los Gatos.

Cheers, Thompson
 
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These original delta-style mono hulls- like the Norco Eaglet, Fisher Northwind- were very cool. Would be intriguing to see how one would compete with today's mono's (using the latest engines, hardware, etc.,...)?
 
@David Bryant - That's a great idea, totally agree. All I can remember of my monokai was how smooth it was. Possibly from my lack of knowledge (as a kid) on not knowing how to dial it in and with an old technology, lower rpm Veco .19. Limited to mostly my budget. Sure would like to revisit this hull now!

I've been searching up a JPMBA style delta boat and they are FAST with a proper new style .21 engine.
 
@David Bryant - That's a great idea, totally agree. All I can remember of my monokai was how smooth it was. Possibly from my lack of knowledge (as a kid) on not knowing how to dial it in and with an old technology, lower rpm Veco .19. Limited to mostly my budget. Sure would like to revisit this hull now!

I've been searching up a JPMBA style delta boat and they are FAST with a proper new style .21 engine.
wow, that boat is fast! Only a 3.5cc. I believe those are FSRV class mono hulls? I noticed the prop/drive is far forward than typical (underneath the hull).

Seems Deep Vee style hulls started taking over mono class in late 1970's/early 1980's (with their ability to handle rough water conditions), and have become even much more refined in design today (ie. surface drive, etc.,...). I can remember (maybe 1974) watching a race in San Diego, an original wood Dumas Deep Vee (driven by Cathy Galbraithe I believe) racing against a Norco Eaglet. The Eaglet would "sling-shot" down the straight's, slow-up and creep through the turns. While the Deep Vee would cut through the turns and catch-up with the Eaglet.

I grew-up with the Veco .19 engine too, it was a staple. My first [real] R/C boat, a Dumas SK Daddle 20, was powered by a Veco .19 with Octura Kool Klamp. A Kraft 2-channel "brick" radio.

I recently (maybe a year ago) came across a brand-new Kyosho "Transonic 400" kit, another delta style mono design. I bought it off eBay. It's pretty cool.Kyosho_Transonic400_Oct2016_06.jpg Kyosho_Transonic400_Oct2016_03.jpg
 
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I just picked up a norco eaglet. I didnt know what it was. orange paint wasnt fuel proof . stripped it for new paint. will be neat to see how it runs. Wonder if this motor will be too much for it. came with a pipe made from a butane can i had never seen anything like it before . it has a baffle in it seems like it would be quiet.
 

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I just picked up a norco eaglet. I didnt know what it was. orange paint wasnt fuel proof . stripped it for new paint. will be neat to see how it runs. Wonder if this motor will be too much for it. came with a pipe made from a butane can i had never seen anything like it before . it has a baffle in it seems like it would be quiet.
pretty cool. Looks to be a .21 size hull. Is that a O.S. .21 marine? I would use a new tuned pipe (ie. NovaRossi, CMB, OPS, etc.,...Although I guess a new .21 car pipe would work?). Can't tell, did you re-paint orange?
 
pretty cool. Looks to be a .21 size hull. Is that a O.S. .21 marine? I would use a new tuned pipe (ie. NovaRossi, CMB, OPS, etc.,...Although I guess a new .21 car pipe would work?). Can't tell, did you re-paint orange?
I had to strip his orange to get it back to a base to paint it. the paint was something not fuel proof and someone messed finish up trying to sand the black stripes off. so as much as I hated to had to strip and repaint it. I put a 3/16 flex shaft in it too since it had a small one and wouldn't handle that os 21 I don't think. I'm going to try to use primer with hardener hopefully it will cover the raw wood so I can get paint on it. was a mess to strip.
 
I have The eaglet going. I am still breaking the engine in but I am wondering what prop will work subsurface and let the xz21 still get the rpm it needs..Pics show a rz but swapped for xz now. I have tried a x438 barr cut , detounged in this video here but It doesn't have much lift the x637 stock lifts more so it doesn't bounce as much. Its also spinning out a lot like in video. any help would be appreciated on prop and strut height angle to stop it spinning. I have went real high trying to get rpm but made it spin worse .Next I will go real deep and try again this Sunday. If there is a chance anyone knows of the plans for this boat I would really like to look at them and see if I am missing anything important.
 

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I would raise the strut up as much as possible, even bending the stuffing tube so it touches the keel, and set the shaft angle parallel to the keel. Then try an x437/3.

Make sure the bottom is flat in the last 1/2 of the hull, if there's a very small concave that's OK but if it rocks up at the transom it'll porpoise.

Run the tabs level with the bottom to start and if it still porpoises start dialing them down.

You should only need about 1/8" - 3/16" throw on the rudder to make a nice turn.
 
I would raise the strut up as much as possible, even bending the stuffing tube so it touches the keel, and set the shaft angle parallel to the keel. Then try an x437/3.

Make sure the bottom is flat in the last 1/2 of the hull, if there's a very small concave that's OK but if it rocks up at the transom it'll porpoise.

Run the tabs level with the bottom to start and if it still porpoises start dialing them down.

You should only need about 1/8" - 3/16" throw on the rudder to make a nice turn.
This is as high as I can get I will try this and see how she goes.I checked the bottom and the last 10 inches of the pad are flat but there is a concave in the shaft area where it goes into the hull maybe 1/16 of inch concave. Edit to last post ... My son and I were noticing the rudder servo would move 50 degrees or so then pause and then move fast on to next position and once replaced it was smooth. It could have been the jerky servo causing some of the spin out problems as well. I put exponential in the steering to try to make it smoother when I noticed this problem. cheap china servos.....
 

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David, that angle entering the strut is going to tear up cables quickly. You may need to completely re-do your stuffing tube to get that entry angle better.
I just put this tube in there and painted it .. darn.... I am unsure what to do I would have to change the engine mount angle and all to change the tube angle now.
 
Would there be a prop I could modify and make it work subsurface still and not have to have the strut up so high ?
 
Can you bend it more where it exits the hull and have it run straight a bit before it enters the strut?

Also, it that center skeg removable? It might turn a lot smoother with one on the RHS of the transom.
 
Can you bend it more where it exits the hull and have it run straight a bit before it enters the strut?

Also, it that center skeg removable? It might turn a lot smoother with one on the RHS of the transom.
I can try flattening the tube some more before it enters the strut. It has a turn fin on the right side now as well as the center fin under the boat if that is what you meant .
 
Some info on these Delta hulls- The first delta hull here (I think?) was the Transonic wood kit from Japan-
Boater Bruce Kaiser bought three kits / built them & set / held Saw records in three classes with those boats - B, C, X -
Good smart boater that worked hard on his boat programs- got results with LOTS of pitch & LOTS of nitro...
Great calm water boats ( as set up for SAW running), ANY chop & they would act up-
This in 1970 (?) , the year I started making rods for the motors- (Veco 19, OPS 3.5, OPS 40 , KB 40 ) & specials-
I had a Transonic A class hull that wasn't very good- (way to small)
My first boat was a B Hydro Hustler (ST X40) - (bought it from Rudy Thomas) ... good boat -
Lots of learning with those boats...
Old days - fun times-
Thanks John Ackerman & Marty Davis (& many more) for help building the hobby ...
My three cents worth-
Dave Richardson
RPM INC. (retired)
 
Some info on these Delta hulls- The first delta hull here (I think?) was the Transonic wood kit from Japan-
Boater Bruce Kaiser bought three kits / built them & set / held Saw records in three classes with those boats - B, C, X -
Good smart boater that worked hard on his boat programs- got results with LOTS of pitch & LOTS of nitro...
Great calm water boats ( as set up for SAW running), ANY chop & they would act up-
This in 1970 (?) , the year I started making rods for the motors- (Veco 19, OPS 3.5, OPS 40 , KB 40 ) & specials-
I had a Transonic A class hull that wasn't very good- (way to small)
My first boat was a B Hydro Hustler (ST X40) - (bought it from Rudy Thomas) ... good boat -
Lots of learning with those boats...
Old days - fun times-
Thanks John Ackerman & Marty Davis (& many more) for help building the hobby ...
My three cents worth-
Dave Richardson
RPM INC. (retired)
I think it is a boat made around 1975 or so unsure if the norco or the northwind was made first, I do want to give it the ole college try and see what I can do with it. I love these old boats, I will have to try to pitch up a small prop and try it.
 
I believe the Eaglet was the first popular delta hull (early/mid 1970's ?) The Transonic was produced in Japan by Kyosho (a very well known Japanese RC boater), came out late 1970's/early 1980's.
 
I just put this tube in there and painted it .. darn.... I am unsure what to do I would have to change the engine mount angle and all to change the tube angle now.
definitely need to re-do brass stuffing tube, should be nice & straight entering the strut. Start out with strut as parallel as possible.

Also, I believe these hulls require a center (keel) turn fin? Both, the Northwind 20 & Transonic, have center (keel) turn fins. Northwind 20 turn fin is positioned with front edge approx 8.5" forward of transom. I believe, without, you will experience spin-out's.
 
definitely need to re-do brass stuffing tube, should be nice & straight entering the strut. Start out with strut as parallel as possible.

Also, I believe these hulls require a center (keel) turn fin? Both, the Northwind 20 & Transonic, have center (keel) turn fins. Northwind 20 turn fin is positioned with front edge approx 8.5" forward of transom. I believe, without, you will experience spin-out's.
I went and ran it again Sunday and it worked best with the strut low and a x637 prop. I just don't think this boat likes the high strut.
 
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