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dr gary turner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
2,742
17EEB8F3-FDB2-4088-904D-764A83ECFA18.jpeg I had a lot of trouble with one of my motors in my 101 twin with an erratic needle.

Finally had time to check things. The filters were BRAND NEW

But this is what was found in the problem motor NEW FILTER

So from now on Even IF NEW it will GT checked.
 
Had that happen also Doc!
I've also had a small machining chip lodged in the water pick up of a new rudder blade before and ended up hurting a motor. Check Check and triple check!
 
I use my Boris flow meter to help check for clogs.

Ron, I thought the same thing but mine would flow fine but when fuel went through it would pack the clogged item and go lean. In my case it was chunks of o-ring from an inflight needle, I found using canned air or something with more psi works better. On Stu’s recommendation I change out all o-rings once a year and purge the fuel system as well as cleaning the tanks.
Thanks John
 
Ron, I thought the same thing but mine would flow fine but when fuel went through it would pack the clogged item and go lean. In my case it was chunks of o-ring from an inflight needle, I found using canned air or something with more psi works better. On Stu’s recommendation I change out all o-rings once a year and purge the fuel system as well as cleaning the tanks.
Thanks John
how do you clean your tanks ? thanks
 
Had the same issue. At the time trials I just could catch the gremlin. Blew out the needle and filter several times. All seemed fine. Finally Jerry open the filter up and you could see cotton like fibers in it. I guess what happened is it would effect the needle differently each run. Depending on how it bunched up. lesson learned was to visually inspect the filter.
but I also changed to these filters and they are the largest filtering capability I’ve seen. And you can take em apart by hand.
https://www.novarossi.us/collections/fuel-accessories/products/fuel-filter
 
The "Cotton" fibers are "BEAN" fibers from the castor in the fuel.. that is just ONE of the reasons we went away from castor based fuel in the Grimracer line.

Man am I going to miss that stuff..

When using fuel with Castor in it.. CHECK YOUR FILTERS OFTEN!

Grim
 
Yes. But I would have put bean fibers people would have been like....what? Lol
Yes that’s what it was.
 
how do you clean your tanks ? thanks

Bob, I use a process shared by Greg David last January at the Nitro Championships. Napa sells “Aluminum Brightener” #1478. Greg used a flush and fill pump system with a shaker pad. Lots black combustion residue came out. I don’t have all that equipment so I put about a half a tank of cleaner and shake by hand and let it set for a while and shake again. Then empty the tank onto a coffee filter or something white. After the cleaning I rinse the tank with acetone and then with methanol/20% Klotz full synthetic. I’ve also changed to running a filter in my exhaust pressure line like I do on my helis.
 
I started using these filters
 

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When putting fuel in my metal gallon can from the plastic jug I pour it thru 3-4 extra fine paint fitters and never had a problem with castor balls from the castor.

Dave Roach
 
problem is that the boris meter is measuring pressure and not flow capacity. so for it to register it needs to be a decent blockage...been there and tried that :)
 
The simple hydrodynamic definition of pressure is resistance to flow. All a Boris meter does is give you a back pressure reading based on the restriction of the needle. The more you close the needle the higher the number goes. So if you have a blocked fuel filter it will record a leaner (higher) number because it won't flow as much. You are correct that my newer twin pump Boris meter shows this more clearly than my old single pump one did because it has a higher flow rate thus a proportionately higher number on the gauge. On an average race day I blow everything out every other heat anyway, especially when the ambient temperature is high.

An example would be a garden hose. With no spray nozzle the water will shoot out a large stream of water maybe 3'-4'. Add a nozzle (ie., fuel filter blockage)and that restricts the opening and the water builds pressure and shoots a lesser volume of water further due to back pressure.

That is why pumps are rated in gallons per minute, cubic feet per minute or inches of vacuum (in the US) instead of increments of pressure. An air compressor builds pressure as the air builds in the tank as the air already pumped in resists the air coming in and when you release the air, pressure drops. Before I was educated as a marine engineer I always thought that pumps were rated by pressure to. On shipboard fire fighting pumps the standard procedure is to fully open the suction, overboard and discharge lines and squeeze down on the overboard globe valve until the discharge pressure is raised to 100 psi. Some pumps do provide more back pressure before stalling (or breaking) such as positive displacement pumps (piston type) or non-positive displacement multistage centrifugal pumps. I worked on ships that had boiler feed pumps that had to overcome 1,600 psi to get water into the water/steam drum. It's all the same theory as why hydraulic accumulators work, pump and build a pressure head and release the pressure to actuate and do work. This is what a steam head on an accumulator on a aircraft carrier catapult does to shoot the shuttle down the deck.
 
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From post one to the above.. LORD!

LOL.. the true definition of a derailment! LOL whereeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.. ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR screeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeechhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh boob, bam, thump.............thump.....thump..thump thumnmp...

Its all good... and then... truth is I did not get one thing out of qualifying the definition of pressure for fuel filters... just me...LOL

Grim
 
Had the same issue. At the time trials I just could catch the gremlin. Blew out the needle and filter several times. All seemed fine. Finally Jerry open the filter up and you could see cotton like fibers in it. I guess what happened is it would effect the needle differently each run. Depending on how it bunched up. lesson learned was to visually inspect the filter.
but I also changed to these filters and they are the largest filtering capability I’ve seen. And you can take em apart by hand.
https://www.novarossi.us/collections/fuel-accessories/products/fuel-filter

Have to check those NR pieces out, Danny... like a the low micron filtration, too.

Thanks!
 
From post one to the above.. LORD!

LOL.. the true definition of a derailment! LOL whereeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.. ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR screeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeechhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh boob, bam, thump.............thump.....thump..thump thumnmp...

Its all good... and then... truth is I did not get one thing out of qualifying the definition of pressure for fuel filters... just me...LOL

Grim
And this helps how? Granted Mike's post went a bit deep after the first paragraph but are you like bored or something??
 
Maybe filter the fuel with multiple filters when pumping the fuel into the boat tank and just run a filter between the pipe and tanks and NOT BETWEEN TANK AND NEEDLE??
 
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