JAE FE 33 Setup

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Bill,
120a and 33v are not really reflective of the motor with a prop load. A 4082 L is about a minimum 2500 watt which is the important info. (2500 is a conservative rating as my TP4082 pulls 3000-3500 watts on a data logger) On 4S -14.8v you have a potential to pull 168 amps. W=Volts X Amps, or Amps = Watts + Volts. Going to 6S, 2500 divided by 22.2v = 112 amps. This all varies with prop load. Bottom line a 4082 on 4S can pull 200 amps. To be safe I would want 220 to 250 amp capability in an ESC. I have a pile of burnt ESC's on the healing shelf that are not going to work again and learned the hard way, buy more capacity.
These figures are also assuming the motor KV's are making equal rpms. 14.8v with 2200 kv makes 32560 no load rpm. 22.2v with a 1600kv motor =35520 rpm. Boat would run relatively same speed with the same prop. Using a 2200kv motor on 6s would pull 48840 no load rpm and need a much smaller prop. Not a good idea as shaft speed and resistance would also increase exponentially. Hope this clarifies a little.
Mic
 
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I have a 33 FE with 4082 and runs great. However if I turn right too sharp and let off the throttle a little it will roll over on its back. Is this normal or something wrong with the set up? Or just need to make wider turns and stay up on the throttle?
Thanks, Bret
I did not see if anyone had answered. What is happening is the turn fin is slipping out or loosing it grip. A little more curl in the bottom of the fin and it will not do this.
 
Awesome looking boat.
Did you raise the read cover so you can fit 6 s batteries ?
I have the same boat but just tape the hatchs down.
Can you add a picture of two of the hatch additions additions
They are a must do for me!
Thanks
 
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I bought some 1/8" x 3/8" hardwood and glued them on the outside top. I got some 1/8" ply and cut a cover. I don't like fooling with tape so I added some cross pieces and use thumb screws (bolts) with 3/16" x 3/8" insulation foam tape like from the hardware store. The top was too flexible for the screw down so I reinforced it with 1/4" x 1/4" carbon fiber hollow square tube. Yes, the ply top, thumb screws and carbon fiber add an ounce or more but works well for me. I also stiffened the front cover on the bottom with carbon fiber and screwed it down. On normal runs it doesn't leak. If I flip it and it sits for a while up side down maybe a tea spoon or so comes in (somewhere?)
 

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I recently changed to 4s so I could run a limited class. I have found no mater the cells or speed I have moved the battery all the way back. It is faster and handles better with some weight on the ski and lighten up the sponsons.
 
Here's a tidbit why CG is important. Not an exact analogy but explains why too much weight on the back is not good. Steering will become really reactive. prone to hooking



 
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