What are you using your Novarossi to clean it out

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Here you go. I buy it on amazon unless I can find it cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...s=corrosion+x&qid=1554471176&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...s=corrosion+x&qid=1554471256&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The stuff in the spray can comes out foamy and thinner. I believe its because of the propellant that's in the can but it seems to penetrate a little better because of that also. The stuff in the squirt bottle is straight corrosion x oil, I like to leave a heavy dose of that in the crank case after washing the nitro out of the motor with the stuff in the can.

Brian
 
Here you go. I buy it on amazon unless I can find it cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...s=corrosion+x&qid=1554471176&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...s=corrosion+x&qid=1554471256&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The stuff in the spray can comes out foamy and thinner. I believe its because of the propellant that's in the can but it seems to penetrate a little better because of that also. The stuff in the squirt bottle is straight corrosion x oil, I like to leave a heavy dose of that in the crank case after washing the nitro out of the motor with the stuff in the can.

Brian
Thks you Mark
 
I just use vaseline oil after cleaning with acetone, it does not attack the red silicone in the crankshaft
 
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Tim what are the combustion residuals from methanol and a synthetic oil like Klotz? Gary Pruesse always used that as an after run and never got had any bearing issues as far as I know. I mixed some methanol with 20% Klotz full synthetic, I can get it to fire and run in my 46 & 91 but it won’t light in the 21. Same as Mike’s experience
Thanks John

Hmmm, would seem not as drastic as nitric acid vapor... that's weird about being finicky in a 21 motor.
Back in the day, we just flushed with WD-40 and Marvel and fogged with OMC fogging oil. I guess I've
never noticed any corrosion within the bearings at disassembly, under mild magnification... however,
on the other hand, we've always had a propensity for over thinking stuff, anyway. What got me concerned
when we came back to the hobby was the silicone ramps in my NR motors. Seemed Mike B. and a couple
of other guys mentioned them coming out, and NR themselves made mention of not subjecting the ramps
to petroleum distillates.
As far as residuals from Klotz Techniplate and methanol, I don't think there's anything detrimental left
behind. Methanol might leave a handful of hydrocarbons, and the Klotz probably some non detrimental
polyalphaolefin (PAO) or polyalkylene glycol (PAG) esters behind- and residual esters would be a good thing.
 
are there different types/formulations of CorrosionX? a while back at the test pond Brian Neumann had a can of it for his A hydro, and I remember the stuff being pretty thick.
 
My god,,, are we really trying to make rocket science out of flushing a Nova Rossi engine????
This is what has been used and has been KNOWN to not attack the silicone ramps in the crank shafts for YEARS.
Someone asked what to flush there Nova Rossi out with, the info was passed on and 31 posts later we're still discussing it???
https://www.technologyhobbiesinc.com/product-p/corrosionx.htm
 
Try this if you can get it..Drag racers use it and it is Silicon friendly.
 

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David, do you have a better picture or name/website. It's to small to read properly and I don't know the stuff. Can't find the bottle on the internet when I search for Fuel Flush.
 
Alky Race Products

Proudly Australian made.
You may not be able to purchase but Google them and check there vids.

They Explain that ATF or similar oils just cannot help with preventing corrosion..
Alky products will do the job.
 

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Incomplete methanol combustion leaves behind formic acid and formaldehyde.

Hi Jim-

Formic acid, more accurately methanoic acid, is a simple carboxylic acid. It is most corrosive to

skin tissue and doesn't harm the metallic components in our engines. Aqueous formaldehyde is

corrosive only to carbon steel, but not in the vapor phase. Formaldehyde and formic acid will

oxidize with excessive oxidants to carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide.

The bottom line is that these two constituents are of such mild corrosiveness that they present

no harm to our engines.

tw
 
Alky Race Products

Proudly Australian made.
You may not be able to purchase but Google them and check there vids.

They Explain that ATF or similar oils just cannot help with preventing corrosion..
Alky products will do the job.

Good stuff, but I think it's integrated into the fuel package. That bottle is $25 and

we're sure the freight to the States is probably high.

Here's a link to their Fuel Flush Q&A page-

https://www.alkyraceproducts.com.au/questions

tw
 
I have both versions of the standard formula corrosion x. The aerosol version is much thinner and does well at spraying/flushing out the initial fuel/water. Than I use the non aerosol version in a squirt bottle and drip it down the carb and glow plug hole, spin the engine over and repeat until I feel the engine is flushed. The non aerosol version is similar in viscosity to any other after run oil everyone is familiar with. So far for 3 seasons in all 3 of my Nova .12 engines with silicone cranks, I have not had any swelling/damage to the silicone ramp. Also no rust or corrosion either.
Brian
 

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