Hopper tanks

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We started putting hopper tanks in our tunnel boats back in the early 80's. There will always be some who won't run them but for me, all my boats are set up with hopper tanks.

If you set your needle by ear like we do (old school) then you are listening to your engine constantly and you hear every pop or ping it is making as it goes around the track. At our little test track it is not uncommon to have two or three boats ripping it up out there and someone shouts "mine just hit the hopper". What that guy is saying is that he is coming in and to watch for him to pull to the bank. When you are listening to your engine you can actually hear the primary tank dry up and when you do, you need to come in because you never want to completely dry up all your fuel and alow your engine to quit because every time you do that you shorten the life of your piston and sleeve fit. You may say Carl is completely nuts but you can actually hear this happen.

As your primary tank (bottom tank) goes dry, the last of the fuel from the lower tank is drawn up the pickup tube and as it does the vent line of the hopper becomes completely empty, then your engine is running completely off of the hopper tank and when that happens you can hear your engine go rich (if you are paying attention to it) When I hear my engine suddenly go rich I bring it around and bring it to the bank to shut it down. We all do this and it keeps your engines fit longer if you just pay attention to the sound of your engine. When you get to racing with your buddies it is easy to loose count of how many laps you have made and with one tank you will never get that little hint that  you are almost out of fuel.

That's just what we have always done. To each their own though.

-Carl 
 
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GrimRacer runs tunnel boats that his  main tank  sets up high and not down in the floor of the tunnel.The higher you can get the tank the better.On some boat you can't do that and if you what to run a hopper that;'s up to you.I am the suppler for the small triangular tanks.Right now I have about 200 left and when those are gone That's it will be no more made.
 
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Its funny John.. years ago I placed some fuel in a clear tank.. I plugged it and taped it to the top of the boat. Expecting to see the fuel "act up" ... this was going to be fun....

what happen.. NOTHING.. the fuel just hung around in the back of the tank.. slow down.. turn what ever.. LOL.. 

No question.. if your fuel is low.. and you have to make a LONG correction.. you will likely take in air.. unless you can keep fuel at the pick up.. (A hopper is not the only solution!)

Having this SUPER HIGH TECH test under my belt..LOL.. I am TOTALLY open to learning more about fuel in our boats. Ya never know...

Sounds like Carl as some knowledge in this area.

Number one for me is tank height. I will take a high CG over a low fuel draw ANY DAY.. 

Grim
Tank height [fuel level height] and proper fuel tank pickup placement is the answer to a good fuel system......

I have run outboard fuel tanks with and without hopper tanks.... Succeeded  with both.... I try to avoid the extra plumbing...that just introduces other problems....

Caution:Do not make the fuel level in the hopper tank higher than the needle valve/fuel inlet....

At full fuel levels it will siphon its little heart out just sitting on the stand..... been there , done that.....

If you are experiencing siphoning make your stand where your boat is sitting 1" to 2" lower than level in the front of the boat.....

That isn't the best fix but can be a quick fix especially if you don't remember to put forceps on the fuel lines when sitting on the stand.....
 
Lohring Miller came down from Oregon to one of Fremont Cal's spring races, he said he saw no need for a hopper tank on his tunnel. Later in the day while racing he came around the left hand corner and over turned and went into the infield part of the back straight, he had to correct by giving the boat some left. His boat died just before the first buoy of the left turn. I must say he taught me something that day.
 
Lohring Miller came down from Oregon to one of Fremont Cal's spring races, he said he saw no need for a hopper tank on his tunnel. Later in the day while racing he came around the left hand corner and over turned and went into the infield part of the back straight, he had to correct by giving the boat some left. His boat died just before the first buoy of the left turn. I must say he taught me something that day.
I was thinking of that when I posted above.  It was a lesson to me as well.  I miss the Fremont Grand Prix and all you great District 9 guys.

Lohring Miller
 
Great info gents....I love those triangle hoppers i have got from John, need some more actually.

Might be time to lift my tanks and remove the hopper to see if any good changes...

But DO NOT use them on a nova 46 outboard...you cannot get the holes big enough to get proper fuel flow :)
 
It is a bit tricky to drill the hole in that boss and keep it in the center. Drilling it in the center is important because if you don't get it centered, it will limit the maximum diameter that you can make the hole before breaking through the side of the boss. I would suggest that you use a small center drill (size #1) or use the tip of a exact-o knife to initiate a small divot in the center of the boss to help keep your drill bit centered while drilling the through hole.  When we drilled those we would run a filter between the hopper and carb for a few runs just in case a small sliver of material were to have gotten into the tank while drilling. As long as the hole in the boss matches the inside hole diameter in your fuel tubing fuel flow should not be affected but if it is smaller Kris would be right about feeding a motor that is as thirsty as a 7.5cc mod or larger. ​

-Carl​
 
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