1/8 Winston Lobster

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TomGracey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2018
Messages
466
Looks like one hell of a mess right now BUT YA HAS to start some ware :eek:

1/8th Scale Winston Lobster construction underway. Most of the parts have been rough fit,  body wings , front sponson's and rear sponson shoes, motor mount in & staff angle set , strut mounted, time to lay out and cut the stuffing box tube hole.

Spec's

Hull: Phil Thomas 1/8th Winston Lobster

Engine :CMB .67 HR Evo CMB Tune Pipe, Crank Balanced by Kent Ballard, TNX Kent

Custom  SST Fuel Tank by John Steltzer  [email protected]  TNX John

SpeedMaster running hardware

As usual Phil's fit and finish workmanship is 1st class TNX  Phil

More to follow!!!!!!

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Looking good,   You can setup the rear sponsons on the marks with the depth in the info,  you can slot the rear  hole to aid some adjustment,  same with the wing bodies you can change the angle  of attack there too.   The  frontsponson angle was close  with the front tube where it is now  but follow the setup info and make the hole bit bigger  then use the 1/4 stick under the pads to be sure both sponson equal angle,  use some epoxy to seat the front tube in place. 

There more work to do  with this kit like make a turbine tube and that  rear wing aluminum brace.  Many ways to mount the cowling part too,  I usually make a ply base  to make the fit easier and stiffen it up some.
 
Looking good,   You can setup the rear sponsons on the marks with the depth in the info,  you can slot the rear  hole to aid some adjustment,  same with the wing bodies you can change the angle  of attack there too.   The  frontsponson angle was close  with the front tube where it is now  but follow the setup info and make the hole bit bigger  then use the 1/4 stick under the pads to be sure both sponson equal angle,  use some epoxy to seat the front tube in place. 

There more work to do  with this kit like make a turbine tube and that  rear wing aluminum brace.  Many ways to mount the cowling part too,  I usually make a ply base  to make the fit easier and stiffen it up some.
Yup got all that from Ur instruction manual really helpful.

BTW the sponson angle of attack was just about dead on as it came from U on my machine shop inspection table the left (outside) sponson was only .010 higher then the right (inside) which is nothing worth going after . We use to build the unlimited's sponson  with 2 to 3 inches diff in outside sponson height
 
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Braved the cold 35 deg. in the machine shop to cut the strut and stuffing box tube holes in the Hull  Its probably redundant but being a retired  CNC shop owner/machinist I always strive for as close to perfect as possible= lowest possible drive line friction loss.  (what can I say its OCD a personality flaw) LOL :unsure:

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Aren't you supposed to use the blue marking fluid instead of tape?  I might have a bottle in my garage someplace ;)
 
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Aren't you supposed to use the blue marking fluid instead of tape?  I might have a bottle in my garage someplace ;)
Ya but with tape U don't have to use LACQUER  WASH to remove the Dykum blue melting the fiber glass into a gooey puddle on the bench :( LMAO

Plus the lines are just  a Reference there to-insure I wrote the G code correctly the 1st time I run the program. Nothing worse then discovering a math decimal place error and cutting a 10,000 slot instead of a 1.00 slot length WTF
 
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Tom dumb question how is the transom side clamp  locked in to the table? ..  Im a hack with  a mill so clmping and holding stuff is always a problem for me
 
Ya but with tape U don't have to use LACQUER  WASH to remove the Dykum blue melting the fiber glass into a gooey puddle on the bench :( LMAO

Plus the lines are just  a Reference there to-insure I wrote the G code correctly the 1st time I run the program. Nothing worse then discovering a math decimal place error and cutting a 10,000 slot instead of a 1.00 slot length WTF
I hoped you knew I was kidding.  I'm assuming that's what the LMAO is for

I've seen some machinists that practically bathe in Dykum.  It doesn't matter what they're cutting, it's bathed in Dykum first.  I will admit, it does interesting things to the appearance of fir as well, kind of ruins it for any other finishing though :wacko:
 
Tom dumb question how is the transom side clamp  locked in to the table? ..  Im a hack with  a mill so clmping and holding stuff is always a problem for me
T nuts in the table's t slots   BTW the only Dumb question is the one that is not asked
 
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I hoped you knew I was kidding.  I'm assuming that's what the LMAO is for

I've seen some machinists that practically bathe in Dykum.  It doesn't matter what they're cutting, it's bathed in Dykum first.  I will admit, it does interesting things to the appearance of fir as well, kind of ruins it for any other finishing though :wacko:
I thought U were serious  NOT 
 
Stuffing box installation DONE  Could not be happier with the alignment no deflection in any direction when inserting the compression drive collet into the engine collet .Just have to counter sink and install the flat hex heads into the strut. Cut the flex shaft to length

More to follow!

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Not a hole lot accomplished this week (she whom must be obeyed had other plans for my time this weekend, happy wife lets me keep all my Stuff ).  I did mange to pretty much complete mock-up on the front ram wing and canards and turn fin install. I do need to decide if I want to manually adjust the canards or use a servo, But at my age just using the throttle & 3rd ch needle and turning right is enough to concentrate on. :huh:

I do want to machine up a new turn fin bracket that will give me more options on the fin tilt angle, elevations & setback

more to follow

After much consideration opted to go with the manual adjustment don't lake the idea of the extra of servo and linkage weight so machined an Aul. control arm.

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If you use a servo, the next step would be a gyro. Could be awesome. 
Even in a 1to1 boat when the blow over start's ( happened twice to me ) there is only enough time to think O-S---T this is going to hurt.

If U had a Gyro in the boat then you'd also need s POV camera and and goggles so U can see the horizon to tell if the boat was starting to lift off.

  I have a hard time flying my Drones with POV goggles really screws up my equilibrium  have to be sitting down LMAO
 
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