Make your own squared end cables without a press and dies

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Geraghty

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2003
Messages
1,636
You do not need a 100 ton press and a set of squaring dies to make a squared end cable....

I recently acquired a Thunder Tiger outboard for testing some ideas I have.... Thunder Tiger parts , though still available , are difficult to obtain in North America.

I am going to make a couple of spare cables for the Thunder Tiger and I thought maybe passing on this skill would be beneficial to the RC boaters.

Just because it is easy , I am going to cut off a K&B cable to the correct length and then clean and lightly solder the cut off end with about 1/2" of solder.

Then simply sand off the soldered end to a squared configuration until it slips into the prop bearing and or PTO drive......

This works great.... For special projects in the past I have bought raw cable  from speedometer shops . I wouldn't be surprised if raw cable is also available from McMaster - Carr...
 
Rod ,

what gear ratio did you go with ? also i believe 9/32 brass tubing will fit where the teflon liner goes , the pin that holds the drive dog on needs to be replaced  as they are pretty weak 
 
I can shoot you some cables if you want Rod.

I have seen them fail at the end of the square (if soldered)...which is OK for testing, but a PAIN if too often.

Offer is there if you want :)
 
The key with soldering is just getting a bit of solder in the end to keep the cable from fraying.  If you allow the solder to flow down into where the cable bends, it will surely fail
 
The key with soldering is just getting a bit of solder in the end to keep the cable from fraying.  If you allow the solder to flow down into where the cable bends, it will surely fail
Paul,What you said is true....also the key to a good solder effort is to not get the soldered end too hot.....If your solder joint gets red hot the cable is toast , if you don't pay attention to soldering  temp you will kill the cable.....

I have had home grown solder ended cables last for literally years....The big diameter props trying to be  used with todays set-ups  and .156" diameter cables really do not understand the word longevity.....

When the first K&B outboard came out in 1973 they came with an aluminum clone of the JG I believe C-7  prop....That was a tiny prop.....The boats were probably maybe running low to mid 30s max  for speeds....I remember running a JG E-20 or E-20T as a heat race prop maybe running 37-38 mph......

The 3.5 OPC and sport tunnels are now running in the high 40s and some claim in the 50s....This is being accomplished with evolving prop technology.....  The weak link in the drive system now is the cable size....Now put together a mod 3.5 tunnel with increased HP and the mechanical strength of .156" diameter cable is really taxed.....

Kris....Thanks for the offer ....if I get deep into running again on a regular basis I will be in touch for cables.......I actually have a set of squaring dies somewhere and access to a big press....I was just trying to pass on a skill to those who do not have access to the equipment to square cables for whatever reason.....
 
Rod ,

what gear ratio did you go with ? also i believe 9/32 brass tubing will fit where the teflon liner goes , the pin that holds the drive dog on needs to be replaced  as they are pretty weak 
I am starting with the 1.19 to 1  to start...I might try all [3]  ratios depending on my testing results...I am installing .062" roll pins in the prop bearing....

I have found the other [2] gear ratio sets in Germany and a friend of mine is getting them for me....  Results should be interesting......
 
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Understood Rod...have fun mate.

I only knew of 2 ratios...is there one that increases RPM at the prop?
 
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