Sleeve Removal

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Ronnie Lerew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
753
What are you guys using to grip the top of the sleeve to remove if it doesn't pop out. I heated it up to about 275 deg. No go. Don't want to scar the top of the sleeve using a pliers . Never had one stick like this before. Any help please.

Ron
 
Put a zip tie through the exhaust port and turn the engine over til it pops up. Then carefully with a flat head screw driver pry it straight up keeping the screwdriver flat under the flange. Leave the fit on the sleeve to case tight. Don't sand it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use two tooth picks in the exhaust port. It generally breaks them in half, but almost always brings the cylinder up enough to pull it out by hand or going under the flange with a screwdriver.
 
I clean up the outside of the sleeves with scotch brite wheel. Buffs it up nicely and wont bind up. Scotch bright pads will do the the same thing.
 
I clean up the outside of the sleeves with scotch brite wheel. Buffs it up nicely and wont bind up. Scotch bright pads will do the the same thing.
Rather than buff the sleeve ,,better to work the sleeve in and out of the case with wd40 or similar product,more like lapping.
 
I've used the glow plug copper gasket trick works great till it disappears into the crankcase and U spend hrs trying to get it back out :unsure: cause the crank gets jammed up and wouldn't rotate . I once broke a rod that hit and deformed the bottom of the cylinder turning it into a major press-fit.  I had to bore-out the cylinder out of the crankcase to salvage the engine. NOT FUN AT ALL :(
 
the nylon bushings andy brown and some others use for engine mount spacers or a hitec servo horn cut to fit in the bore
 
I use hard wood,1/4 inch square, 2 inches long, one end tapered to 1/8inch wide, and tapered from the center of the piece of wood, to the end of the wood with a final thickness of 1/8 inch, so it will fit on top of piston, then slide it onto exhaust lip, then turn engine over to raise the liner up. The  way  I check the seal, compression, is the remove the engine from. in this case, the boat. I hold it in one hand and spin the fly wheel as fast as I can ,from, BDC, thru top dead center with the plug in tight. As I turn the engine over very fast thru TDC.,  If there isn't a  good tite fit, thru TDC, I grab the appropriate liner squeezer, and bring the liner fit, back to the piston, until I feel a good tite fit, for a good seal,@ TDC. If the liner to case fit is so tight, U have trouble removing the liner, from the case, before U remove the liner, I would. pull the motor out, put a tite glow plug in, grab the fly wheel, and spin the engine over TDC, and U can feel if there is good tite seal, or very little seal, @ TDC .If U take the head of, and take a close look at the piston, all around the edge, id U see some groves around the edge, I believe, the liner is so tite into the case, it just wears the piston top edge away, and with out a good seal, U loose a lot of horse power. When people send me an engine to look at, most  the time it is either bad bearings, or no seal. @ TDC.  I pull the liner and sand the OD of the liner, until the liner slides in the case very easy. Then I take the liner, and sand the OD down until, the liner slides into the case, with out any resistance. Then I squeeze the liner, and bring the seal back in, to nice tite fit, so the owner can brake the engine in again. Hope this helps. JM2CW

dick jonesy
Question, why are the sleeves, so tight
 
Dick thy where not shown how to sand down the top of the liner.

Your slipping up in your old age!!!!!!!!!
 
SOOOOOOOOOO, U want me to show U all of my secrets, good luck on that, I can share with U about my new mono, it ran 31 miles an hour, just before it it it exploded, it was awesome!!

moby 
 
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