Paint for a wooden gas Thunderboat?

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dschigoda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
247
Back in the '80's - I built and raced wood nitro boats, that were sealed and painted with epoxy paints (like HobbyPoxy and K&B paint), which were high nitro fuel proof, and are no longer produced.

I'm considering designing, building and racing a wood gas Thunderboat. Do I need to use epoxy paints (like KlassKote) to protect the wood hull and paint finish from gasoline? Are there other brush-on paints that will hold up as well to gasoline, but are easier, faster or cheaper?

I'm thinking that I don't want to invest in a respirator, paint booth, etc. I'm looking to use a foam brush to apply the paint, and do some wet sanding.

I'm sure that there are many ways to do this - but I'm wondering if gas boats require different paints than nitro boats?

Would it make sense to seal the hull first with West Systems epoxy glue? Or would that add too much weight to a boat this large? [48" x 24" hull with a stock Zenoah and a tuned pipe, per IMPBA Dist. 4 rules].

Thanks.

-Dave
 
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All of my wood boats have been sealed then painted with Polyeurathane then clear coated with the same.. I use PPG or Sherwin/Williams automotive paint .. Sands easy and has lasted for several years!! Gas proof too!!!

Later!!

Pat
 
The Klass Koat is much tougher paint but for gas the Rustolum 2X paints are good and easy, if it gets scratched it matches a and easy to redo. Just watch the recoat times I had some wrinkle cause I was in a hurry.
 
The Klass Koat is much tougher paint but for gas the Rustolum 2X paints are good and easy, if it gets scratched it matches a and easy to redo. Just watch the recoat times I had some wrinkle cause I was in a hurry.
yep, you have to read the label and pay attention or it will wrinkle.
 
I’m a guy coming from an airplane background, so pardon me if this is an odd question....

When building larger boats, .67 on up, do builders ever use 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and resin to “bind” the wood grain on the exterior surfaces?

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I've glassed my boats, mostly .21s. I didn't glass the wood cowling though on my latest though. I would bet that most do not glass. Heck, it seems to be a trend to just stop at the epoxy and not even paint.... I'm not too trendy ;-)
 
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I’m a guy coming from an airplane background, so pardon me if this is an odd question....

When building larger boats, .67 on up, do builders ever use 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and resin to “bind” the wood grain on the exterior surfaces?
Chris,

Adding cloth does little for strength.. Boat strength that is. It does however ad some (Very little) rigidity to the paint finish. Adding cloth is just for finish work.

I have and like to use it on a larger wood build up. I dont use it on smaller boats just because I dont want any extra weight.

When it comes to a natural wood finish I like to just use Auto clear, and thats all.. I NEVER use epoxy for a finish or under a clear coat finish. Looks dirty and just adds weight.

Grim
 
I’m a guy coming from an airplane background, so pardon me if this is an odd question....

When building larger boats, .67 on up, do builders ever use 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and resin to “bind” the wood grain on the exterior surfaces?
Chris,
Adding cloth does little for strength.. Boat strength that is. It does however ad some (Very little) rigidity to the paint finish. Adding cloth is just for finish work.

I have and like to use it on a larger wood build up. I dont use it on smaller boats just because I dont want any extra weight.

When it comes to a natural wood finish I like to just use Auto clear, and thats all.. I NEVER use epoxy for a finish or under a clear coat finish. Looks dirty and just adds weight.

Grim
Yes, I understand that about the strength part. I know on balsa the glass binds the grain together into a more stable paintable surface. Was just curious what everyone here does as far as finishing birch plywood surfaces. The weight gain on an 1/8th scale boat can’t be more than a few ounces I’d imagine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i have used rust oleum protective enamel thined out a little bit with valspar enamel hardener ....the first coat should be thinned slightly more so it can penetrate the wood grain....you don,t need to prime.....finish layers can be brushed on.....i had better results using a softer bristle brush ....let the paint flow on....bob
 
Check out Route 66 Auto Paint in Joplin Missouri they sell 2K auto paint in a spray paint can you cant go wrong use 2K epoxy primer, paint then clear coat it with 2K high gloss it will cost you aprox $130.00 you want to get 2 cans of clear so you can collor sand and buff the clear
 
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