Proper New Engine Break-in Procedure by Novarossi Marine USA

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RonShaw

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Apr 13, 2011
Messages
6,347
Guys and Gals,

I had one of my resellers, RRC, reach out to me for an official Novarossi engine break-in procedure. I have has several boaters, especially new boaters, request this information from me many times. I had a few minutes today and put the following together. This information helps sport boaters but I think will help many racers as well. Some may or may not agree with every word, but this is a general statemwnt to cover the vast majority of customers served by Novarossi Marine USA and its resellers. Please let me know your thoughts before I post this on the website. Your valuable input is appreciated. Thank you.

NOVAROSSI MARINE USA RECOMMENDED NEW ENGINE BREAK-IN PROCEDURE

It is important to break-in any new RC engine properly, as to not not diminish motor life. Attempting to rush this process by means such as lapping the piston to the liner will only serve to greatly reduce the overall life of the engine. The proper method of break-in starts with a total fuel premium synthetic lubrication content of no less than 12%. Also, an additional 4oz of premium engine castor oil such as Benzol Castor oil should also be added to each gallon of racing fuel for additional engine protection. The proper bench ( bench motor mount or while mounted in the rc boat) break in period should always start by preheating the engine to at least 200 degrees (verified with a quality digital thermal temp gun) before attempting to start. Any locally available heat gun or monokote heat gun will work well. This will allow the engine to properly expand to operating temps before starting. This pre-heating process should be repeated on a cold engine until the plug can be removed and the squeak (due to new piston/sleeve fit) goes away at piston top-dead-center. There also needs to be a proper method of adjustable water cooling available to keep the engine around 200 degrees throughout each running period. Many simply use a water source and fuel pump with a variable flow to achieve cooling. Once the engine is running, you must routinely check temps to verify proper 200 degree operation and cooling. It is also very important to run the engine very rich during the break-in, to the point that plenty of smoke is coming from the pipe and the engine is running so rich you will probably need to keep the glow driver attached just to keep it running. Just the flow of fuel in a extremely rich engine will serve to help keep the temperature down as the engine is running. This process can take anywhere from ½-1 gallon of fuel to achieve. Once this important step is completed, you are ready to start making rich laps at the pond. You should still make several tanks of rich runs before you start attempting to properly lean the engine for optimum operation. Important note: Never Never run any rc engine lean to the point of pulling, distorting, or completely destroying the glow plug element. This practice will lead to premature wear and eventual destruction of the engine.

Please note: All Novarossi Engines have the head button-to-top of piston clearance set to run with a nitro content of 25% from the factory (European standard). If your racing organization allows higher content racing fuel, the head clearance should be lowered (raise compression) to allow the engine to burn the additional nitro content and achieve maximum race engine performance. This process should only be performed by a trained rc engine mechanic as improper head button clearance can cause premature engine failure. Novarossi Marine USA also recommends the proper use of an engine depth gauge for this measurement instead of quick check methods such as the use of plastigauge. Novarossi routinely uses dish topped pistons and tapered squish methods on their head buttons that would greatly reduce the accuracy of using any method other than a quality rc engine depth gauge.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The proper bench ( bench motor mount or while mounted in the rc boat) break in period should always start by preheating the engine to at least 200 degrees (verified with a quality digital thermal heat gun) before attempting to start. This will allow the engine to properly expand to operating temps before starting. This pre-heating process should be repeated on a cold engine until the plug can be removed and the squeak (due to new piston/sleeve fit) goes away at piston top-dead-center
thanks for this info Ron. What is method for pre-heating the engine?
 
The proper bench ( bench motor mount or while mounted in the rc boat) break in period should always start by preheating the engine to at least 200 degrees (verified with a quality digital thermal heat gun) before attempting to start. This will allow the engine to properly expand to operating temps before starting. This pre-heating process should be repeated on a cold engine until the plug can be removed and the squeak (due to new piston/sleeve fit) goes away at piston top-dead-center
thanks for this info Ron. What is method for pre-heating the engine?
Glad to help David. Best way to pre-heat the engine is by using a heat gun available from most any hardware store or Harbor Freight. I have an old monokote heat gun from my rc flying days that works very well.
 
Hairdryer for pre heating! I also wrap the motor with Alaminium tape over the cooling fins (as i run my engines in under load on a hudy break in bench! With the Novarossi break in set! part number 29062) also with my marine engines i use a small aquarium pump (water not air!!) To circulate hot water through the head (i also run Yamaha radiator concentrate adative as used in motorcycles) also Novarossi can void warranty if there castor oil or there synthetic oil is not used (word of warning!) May be repeating Ron here but i use and recommend the heat cycling method run my engines to 95-105°c then muffle the pipe to stall the engine! Cycle the piston to BDC bottom dead center let it cool! Have a beer or a coffee then repeat! Nice and rich on the needles! I use a good thermometer gun down on the plug for the readings! i cycle it like that 10 times! I use the same method for my speedway bikes! But i wrap the engine's in a pre-heater blanket like the sprintcar guys use to pre heat there spare oil
 
Do you guys think this method of break in should be done all new nitro engines? Just asking because I have been lapping all of my pistons for years and wouldn't mind trying this method on a couple of new non-novarossi engines that I have.
 
IMHO it applies to most all taper piston fit liner engines. Basically engines without a piston ring
default_wink.png
 
Craig,

As Adam confirmed, this break in will work for any ABC type rc engine break-in.
 
Hmm... I'm not sure if I'm missing something. Why wouldn't we build engines that are ready to run hard? "Break-in" is nearly if not entirely extinct in most other types of engines now that materials, design, and machining processes have evolved to very high levels. If these engines are so doggone tight that an entire gallon of fuel must be run before they can even be run slow/rich on the water, why aren't they built with a better fit? Why do the "machining" via heat and fuel and break-in benches? Gosh I dunno fellas .... Would .0005" less piston diameter out of the box make these a race ready motor?
 
The break in allows the piston and cylinder to perfectly mate to each other. As the piston and cylinder heat, internal stresses are relieved and there will be slight differences from piston to piston and liner to liner. Machining the parts to allow for break in results in a perfect fit vs. a good fit.
 
One of the fastest guy in the country tells me to break them in the same way yer gonna race them
Lol Rick. The method I posted is mainly for the sport boaters and other racers that may not have a method that works for them. Avid racers are an entirely different breed and many have their own methods that work for them, and thats great. Main point, you have to have a plan. Thanks.
 
One of the fastest guy in the country tells me to break them in the same way yer gonna race them
Lol Rick. The method I posted is mainly for the sport boaters and other racers that may not have a method that works for them. Avid racers are an entirely different breed and many have their own methods that work for them, and thats great. Main point, you have to have a plan. Thanks.
10/4 Ron,

Not taking anything away from your post. Lotta info there

All good
 
One of the fastest guy in the country tells me to break them in the same way yer gonna race them
Lol Rick. The method I posted is mainly for the sport boaters and other racers that may not have a method that works for them. Avid racers are an entirely different breed and many have their own methods that work for them, and thats great. Main point, you have to have a plan. Thanks.
10/4 Ron,

Not taking anything away from your post. Lotta info there

All good
That was great info Rick. I know several other racers that live by that rule as well.
 
Back
Top