Divinycell foam

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Shane Bastick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
3,739
where is a good place to get the divinycell foam these days, be it green or grey, (for outriggers)

thanks
 
Note, I think Diab no longer color code the Divinycell H-series. Think they are all "natural" colored now. So its best to call them with their id instead as in H60 (green) and H80 (grey/brown).
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(Note, Divinycell H-series is an cross-linked closed-cell pvc foam. Its superior to any versions of eps, epp or the normal insulation materials)
 
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Shane, how much do you need?? I have quiet a few sheets of H80 (perfect for sponsons, cowl plugs etc).

Mine is approx 25mm think.

I am over in Perth, but at least it is in Australia
 
Hey David, how much do you need?

Checked it out the other day and it is 20mm not 25mm as I i itially thought not that it makes much difference really.

That said, I still have 5 1/2, nearly six sheets (1200x2400), so there is heaps there mate. Had a bit more of a play with it on the laser cutter the other and it cuts really well. I knew in machines perfectly on my CNC router, but never fully investigated it on the laser cutter as I had given up building boats when I bought the laser. I must say, if I had the laser when i was building it would've been so much easier with better accuracy too

Johno
 
Note, I think Diab no longer color code the Divinycell H-series. Think they are all "natural" colored now. So its best to call them with their id instead as in H60 (green) and H80 (grey/brown).
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(Note, Divinycell H-series is an cross-linked closed-cell pvc foam. Its superior to any versions of eps, epp or the normal insulation materials)
Thanks for the tips.
 
Yes, unlike the hardware store foam it has little floatation value or structural integrity until it is used in an epoxy lay up. You have to remember to chamfer the foam edges at a 45 degree angle so the cloth will lay down over the edges and not make a void that just fills with epoxy when bagging (adding no strength but adding weight).

The first photo shows test fitting the foam in the mold (after making patterns for future builds). The next shows the finished piece with a little rough sanding but before Dremeling out the absolutely useless pooled epoxy in the little nooks and crannies that I didn't get the bag all the way into. Robart makes some carbide cutters that work great for this. I took 3 oz. out of both top and bottom of hull pieces.

I use the 1/8th inch foam and it is really fragile to handle. You would never think it would get as strong as it does. I lay up a core material out of the 1/8th inch foam with a layer of 6 oz. cloth on either side on a sheet of tempered glass. The wings and uprights are 2 pieces of core material epoxied together, shaped, strut attachment points epoxied in and then wrapped in a layer of 6 oz. twill cloth then bagged and heat cured. Less the steel blocks that are suspending the horizontal wing it has 36 pounds of steel stacked in the center with no deflection. I could have added more, but I ran out of weights.

These things will be prop killers if they get run over. I only mention this as I have, on occasion, proven I don't need any help wrecking my stuff as I have run over my own wings!
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I ran over a Kevlar wing in Hobart and it trashed all my hardware. Needless to say I hate those wings LOL
 
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