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Steve Seebold

HERE'S A LITTLE SOMETHING I WHIPPED UP IN MY GARAGE

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I was bored last week so I made some new rudders and standoffs for gas monos.

 

Please, tell me what you think. Should I make it a production item?

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Edited by Steve Seebold

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I like what you did with the water pickup. You might want to consider rounding off the front top edge of the rudder blade and using a brass screw in the lower hole so it acts as a shear pin and allows the rudder to kick up on a hard impact to protect the trasnsom.

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I like what you did with the water pickup. You might want to consider rounding off the front top edge of the rudder blade and using a brass screw in the lower hole so it acts as a shear pin and allows the rudder to kick up on a hard impact to protect the trasnsom.

 

Steve, you're right. The top of the rudder needs to be rounded to prevent damage to the boat in the event of a collision.

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I have purchased Hardware from Steve before > Very High Quality ... He is a craftsman .....

 

" He could use some beauty sleep " but the quality of his work is Dead ON .......

 

Rick Reisinger

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Even if the lower bolt was removed it would not pivot !

Do not make it a production item, you will only disappoint more consumers.

P.S. the steering arm looks mighty short for a gasser also. :rolleyes:

I run one on my boat and the steering arm length works just fine.

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Steve,

 

I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32. I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race. Having more to crank down on would be nice.

 

TG

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Steve,

 

I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32. I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race. Having more to crank down on would be nice.

 

TG

Hey Tyler, I like your idea, BUT, if you happen to hit something with the rudder held that tight, I think you'll stand a really good chance of doing some major damage to the back of the boat. Probably something like rip the transom out.

 

I have run the 8-32/4-40 screw combination for a long time and never had a problem. I would say, if you're really concerned about your rudder moving at high speeds in today's heat racing, I know a simple solution. SLOW DOWN. LOL

Edited by Steve Seebold

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Before anyone asks, I made 40 assemblies. They're $65.00 each. Dealer inquiries are invited.

I guess you don't give up

Steve Seebold

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 09:47 PM

I'm looking for some running gear for a Classic Thunderboat I'm building, and I don't like the stuff that's currently available.

 

I could make it myself, but I got back in to the areoapace industry a few weeks ago, and now I just don't have time.

 

Besides, I have been forbidden from advertising my stuff on this site.

Edited by Nigtmare

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Before anyone asks, I made 40 assemblies. They're $65.00 each. Dealer inquiries are invited.

I guess you don't give up

Steve Seebold

Boater

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 09:47 PM

I'm looking for some running gear for a Classic Thunderboat I'm building, and I don't like the stuff that's currently available.

 

I could make it myself, but I got back in to the areoapace industry a few weeks ago, and now I just don't have time.

 

Besides, I have been forbidden from advertising my stuff on this site.

 

Perhaps I should have made myself more clear. NO, you can't buy them from me. I am in the process of setting up a dealer network. I'll post dealers names as they become available. I don't want to deal with the public. I want to deal with dealers. I just want to make the stuff.

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He's a tough act to follow Nick. A week ago he was busy with the areoapace (whatever that is) industry and looking for someone to build hardware for him. This week he's advertising his hardware and looking for dealers to handle the complaints. Huh?

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He's a tough act to follow Nick. A week ago he was busy with the areoapace (whatever that is) industry and looking for someone to build hardware for him. This week he's advertising his hardware and looking for dealers to handle the complaints. Huh?

You just couldn't stand it could you Ron. I didn't make the stuff for your boat so you're going to keep slamming me every chance you get.

 

Do you know why I didn't make your stuff? I don't do knockoffs without permission from the guy who made it first. I just don't do business that way.

 

If you remember correctly, I offered to reimburse you for the money you paid Steve Wood for your new hardware. To which I got no reply.

 

Yeah, I make more money doing aerospace work (making parts for airplanes). A lot more. I don't really want to do it because of all the paperwork. To do aerospace work I have to provide material certifications so I can prove what kind of material I made my parts out of. I have to provide heat treat and plating certifications so they know who did it and how it was done, then I have to wait 60 to 180 days to get paid. That means I have to pay all my suppliers within 30 days, then HOPE I get paid before I run out of money so I can pay my rent, electric and phone bills.

 

I don't make a lot of money on model boat stuff. I do it more for something to do. I sell more stuff in Europe than I do in the USA. It seems people here are more interested in Speedmaster prices than they are in good quality.

 

Speaking of quality, what does Speedmaster do if one of their parts fails? I'll tell you what I do. I will repair it, replace it or refund your money. YOUR CHOICE.

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