Miss Budweiser

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this sport,just received a Miss Budweiser and dieing to get out and run it.But rain has got me waiting, i have questions and would like your help?

1. the modifications that need to be done wut are they?

2. Floatation wut can i do to her up so she doesn't sink?

3. Servo types and speed control that are needed to modifiy her insides?

4.What is the best way to retrieve her when she cuts off.

5.when turning her off HOW DO I DO THAT ,NOT THE ELECTRIC PART THE GAS PART?

Sorry for all the questions but i did say i was new to this

THANKS ALOT,

CHARLES1

Congratulations on entering the boating world. A co-worker bought one of these so I have made some personal observations.

1. The radio switch is not waterproof. Fix that right away.

2. Floatation. Get some foam rubber pipe insulation, cut it into strips small enough

to slip into the hull, but not tight enough that you can't remove them for cleanup.

3. The servos supplied with the boat are just fine. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

4. Retrieval. Try to estimate when she'll run out of fuel and bring it in before that happens. But if it dies out on the water, as they all do, A modestely priced fishing pole with a couple of nuts or weights tied to the line will help in getting it back to shore. After some practice, you'll be able to place the line anywhere you want. Cast it out beyond the boat and reel it in and snag it. Don't attempt to swim out to get it alone. Bring a friend with you to the pond. You don't want to drown. <_<

5. Set the throttle to close all the way when you push the trigger on the radio forward. See the radio instructions.

6. One thing I observed with my buddies boat. The rudder is not capable of kicking up when hitting an object. He hit something in the water or run it up onshore at speed and tore out the transom of the boat. :blink: I would replace the rudder assembly with one the does kickup. Cheap insurance! Maybe some of the .12 rigger guys can steer in the right direction as to what will work best.

7. When you done running for the day, flush the engine out. I spray WD40 in mine, spin it over with the plug out (cover it with a rag or you'll wear the stuff) and then put in some auotomatic transmission fluid and keep the drive shaft lubed! This will keep the internals from rusting out because of the fuel. One more thing. There's a back issue of RC model boater that covers most of the mods. If you go to their website, you can print the whole article. Good luck!

Hi Charles...Welcome aboard!!

Which model? I'll assume you are referring to the Pro Boat RTR with the Dynamite .15 in it.

See if I can help a little.

1. Mods -- probably the best mod you can do for the boat is get a balanced, sharpened, metal prop. Don't know what works for that hull...I've never run one. Maybe someone else on here has a hint.

2. Flotation -- if it doesn't already have some type of flotation installed, get a (nice red) foam Pool Noodle and cut up pieces to stuff in the hull and sponson voids.

3. Radio gear -- the Pro Boat comes with a JR Python radio (I believe)...should be fine the way it is. You could buy a 'high end' PCM radio, but for your first boat, I wouldn't worry about it.

4. Retrieval -- we kinda frown on swimming after them. Especially in colder weather. A $40 rubber raft is an option. If it dies close enough, a fishing pole with a tennis ball on the line works pretty good.

5. Shutting it down -- several ways to do this. Here's how I like to do it. Set the throttle trim at it's lowest and adjust the linkage for a reliable idle. You'll find that full trim will be about right for starting. To shut it down, just push the trigger forward.

The Pro Boat is a good starting point. Not a screaming demon, but plenty for a beginner.

Thanks Guys this really gets me going in the right direction,because i really cant wait to get it out and let her loose. If there is any other thing that you can tell me i would appreciate it very much.Again thanks

Charles,

I have done a few propellers for the Bud,mostly Y-535 props from Octura.

I think that is the metal propeller of choice so far.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

Props-4-U

thanks for the help looking into getting 1 now

thanks alot

One thing to be wary of though,the Octura Y535 prop is made for a 1/8" shaft. The shaft on the Bud is ten thousanths of an inch smaller. For best performance,you need to "shim" the prop to fit. The other things that I have done are:

Sharpen the leading edge of bothe the rudder and turn fin,the sharper the better,but watch out that you don't cut yourself.

Shorten the pipe and header,about one inch total will do.

Install an Aeromarine auto-bailer in the back of the boat on the left side of the transom.

Install an Octura water outlet where the overboard hose comes through the side of the boat.

Cut up foam pipe insulation for flotation.

Use a Dubro #203 switch mount and make a new lid for the radio box to help keep out water.

Put some grease inside the pushrod seals to help make them more waterproof and make them slide better.

Remove the clear plastic piece inside the air scoop to allow more airflow.

Mask off the running surfaces and spray about four good coats of clear on them. When it is dry,wet sand usind a block to true up these surfaces and make good sharp edges for the water to break off.

This should give you a good start and will give a great boost in speed.

Bob Kensill

Bob

"Shorten the pipe and header,about one inch total will do."

1/2" off the pipe & 1/2" off the header?

or

1" off pipe?

the edges of the bud are pretty rounded would it be stupid to use some epoxy to build it up block down to a sharp edge then maybe add a little color back with a little clear on top?

and what about surface tension? do most guys run a glossy or a sanded finnish?

Thanks,

Richard

take as much off the header as you can without shortening it till its hard to get the rubber coupling on. (as much off being as much of that 1 inch as possible). and take the rest of that inch off the pipe.

Joe