OK will try this next. I hope I won't deform the flywheel. The flywheel has thin wall...Block of wood and a hammer striking the side of the flywheel,remember you are breaking the seal around the cone
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.
Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45
Sorry, but that housing is junk. Tried green locktite before, it'll hold for a bit...Don't have a wire stripper but along David's idea, I inserted two 3/16" rod into the flywheel holes and rest it on a vice. Hammered it out.
Finally disassembled the engine and what a piece of junk I've gotFirst off, I hated it when I bought a used engine listed as stock and found that the seller drilled out the mounting lugs to 8-32. Why would anyone think it takes 4 8-32 bolts to mount the K&B is beyond me. Then I noticed both bearings are loose in the housing. And the crank is loose in the front bearing. Not to mention a lot of dremel work thrown in.
Anyone has a front housing they want to sell? Or can I get by using Loctite to hold the bearings in the housing?
Phil, you are right. Save the cash and take the flex connector and put it on a CMB or AA.
"Modded" engine...sigh
Don't have a wire stripper but along David's idea, I inserted two 3/16" rod into the flywheel holes and rest it on a vice. Hammered it out.
Finally disassembled the engine and what a piece of junk I've gotFirst off, I hated it when I bought a used engine listed as stock and found that the seller drilled out the mounting lugs to 8-32. Why would anyone think it takes 4 8-32 bolts to mount the K&B is beyond me. Then I noticed both bearings are loose in the housing. And the crank is loose in the front bearing. Not to mention a lot of dremel work thrown in.
Anyone has a front housing they want to sell? Or can I get by using Loctite to hold the bearings in the housing?
Phil, you are right. Save the cash and take the flex connector and put it on a CMB or AA.
"Modded" engine...sigh
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.
Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45
Bin a mechanic for 30 years and smacked more fly wheels of than most have seen. Never hurt one yet. Just hit it like you mean it once. Don't baby tap it to death.
Never used a puller in my life on a tapered fly wheel. Have to shock it to break it lose.
Works on chainsaws to. Hold the pull start dog housing with vice grips and whack it. Just leave the nut on so you don't mess the threads up and so it doesn't land on your foot.
David
gte a rawhide hammer and wack it good once on the side it will come right off.Need to disassemble the flywheel from a K&B 7.5 IB so I can clean it tonight. I do not have any special puller. Have only a hammer and a torch.
Should I try heating first or tap it out?
Thanks,
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.
Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45
Bin a mechanic for 30 years and smacked more fly wheels of than most have seen. Never hurt one yet. Just hit it like you mean it once. Don't baby tap it to death.
Never used a puller in my life on a tapered fly wheel. Have to shock it to break it lose.
Works on chainsaws to. Hold the pull start dog housing with vice grips and whack it. Just leave the nut on so you don't mess the threads up and so it doesn't land on your foot.
David
Just don't name it after a ex-wife or GF, or it won't EVER do what you want, no matter how hard you hit her (it) ....
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