Best way to remove a stuck flywheel on a K&B 7.5

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Kez

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2003
Messages
1,230
Need to disassemble the flywheel from a K&B 7.5 IB so I can clean it tonight. I do not have any special puller. Have only a hammer and a torch.

Should I try heating first or tap it out?

Thanks,
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Go to a local automotive supplier and buy a cheap small 3 prong puller. Less than 10 bucks.
 
Loosen up the coupler just a turn or two. Use a pair of wire strippers the ones with the stripper on the handle end and clamp it in the belt grove. Open up the vice and straddle the jaws with the wire strippers holding it in one hand . Now hit the coupler with a hammer. Off it will come.

Kinda cave man like but it works great.

David
 
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.

Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45
 
I want to take it apart tonight but I don't have a stripper. I tried heating up the flywheel and then use the hammer approach. Don't have a wire stripper either but I held the flywheel with a gloved hand. No luck. Actually the stud is kind of soft and I was able to "Mushroom" the stud end from striking with a hammer!! Fortunately the stud on the K&B is replaceable.

Other suggestions?
 
Block of wood and a hammer striking the side of the flywheel,remember you are breaking the seal around the cone
 
Block of wood and a hammer striking the side of the flywheel,remember you are breaking the seal around the cone
OK will try this next. I hope I won't deform the flywheel. The flywheel has thin wall...
 
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.

Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45

Bin a mechanic for 30 years and smacked more fly wheels of than most have seen. Never hurt one yet. Just hit it like you mean it once. Don't baby tap it to death.

Never used a puller in my life on a tapered fly wheel. Have to shock it to break it lose.

Works on chainsaws to. Hold the pull start dog housing with vice grips and whack it. Just leave the nut on so you don't mess the threads up and so it doesn't land on your foot.
laugh.gif


David
 
Don't have a wire stripper but along David's idea, I inserted two 3/16" rod into the flywheel holes and rest it on a vice. Hammered it out.

Finally disassembled the engine and what a piece of junk I've got :angry: First off, I hated it when I bought a used engine listed as stock and found that the seller drilled out the mounting lugs to 8-32. Why would anyone think it takes 4 8-32 bolts to mount the K&B is beyond me. Then I noticed both bearings are loose in the housing. And the crank is loose in the front bearing. Not to mention a lot of dremel work thrown in.

Anyone has a front housing they want to sell? Or can I get by using Loctite to hold the bearings in the housing?

Phil, you are right. Save the cash and take the flex connector and put it on a CMB or AA.

"Modded" engine...sigh :angry:
 
Don't have a wire stripper but along David's idea, I inserted two 3/16" rod into the flywheel holes and rest it on a vice. Hammered it out.

Finally disassembled the engine and what a piece of junk I've got
mad.gif
First off, I hated it when I bought a used engine listed as stock and found that the seller drilled out the mounting lugs to 8-32. Why would anyone think it takes 4 8-32 bolts to mount the K&B is beyond me. Then I noticed both bearings are loose in the housing. And the crank is loose in the front bearing. Not to mention a lot of dremel work thrown in.

Anyone has a front housing they want to sell? Or can I get by using Loctite to hold the bearings in the housing?

Phil, you are right. Save the cash and take the flex connector and put it on a CMB or AA.

"Modded" engine...sigh
mad.gif
Sorry, but that housing is junk. Tried green locktite before, it'll hold for a bit...
sad.gif
 
Don't have a wire stripper but along David's idea, I inserted two 3/16" rod into the flywheel holes and rest it on a vice. Hammered it out.

Finally disassembled the engine and what a piece of junk I've got
mad.gif
First off, I hated it when I bought a used engine listed as stock and found that the seller drilled out the mounting lugs to 8-32. Why would anyone think it takes 4 8-32 bolts to mount the K&B is beyond me. Then I noticed both bearings are loose in the housing. And the crank is loose in the front bearing. Not to mention a lot of dremel work thrown in.

Anyone has a front housing they want to sell? Or can I get by using Loctite to hold the bearings in the housing?

Phil, you are right. Save the cash and take the flex connector and put it on a CMB or AA.

"Modded" engine...sigh
mad.gif

I have a large box of K&B 7.5 parts if you need any thing let me know.

David
 
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.

Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45

Bin a mechanic for 30 years and smacked more fly wheels of than most have seen. Never hurt one yet. Just hit it like you mean it once. Don't baby tap it to death.

Never used a puller in my life on a tapered fly wheel. Have to shock it to break it lose.

Works on chainsaws to. Hold the pull start dog housing with vice grips and whack it. Just leave the nut on so you don't mess the threads up and so it doesn't land on your foot.
laugh.gif


David

Just don't name it after a ex-wife or GF, or it won't EVER do what you want, no matter how hard you hit her (it) ....
 
Need to disassemble the flywheel from a K&B 7.5 IB so I can clean it tonight. I do not have any special puller. Have only a hammer and a torch.

Should I try heating first or tap it out?

Thanks,
gte a rawhide hammer and wack it good once on the side it will come right off.
 
David, thats a good idea if you dont have a puller, I just dont like beating on the crank afraid what it would do to the bearings. I usually are replacing bearings any ways if the flywheel is coming off. They never look good HA.

Kez, save your cash take the flex connector off and put it on a CMB or ACE 45

Bin a mechanic for 30 years and smacked more fly wheels of than most have seen. Never hurt one yet. Just hit it like you mean it once. Don't baby tap it to death.

Never used a puller in my life on a tapered fly wheel. Have to shock it to break it lose.

Works on chainsaws to. Hold the pull start dog housing with vice grips and whack it. Just leave the nut on so you don't mess the threads up and so it doesn't land on your foot.
laugh.gif


David

Just don't name it after a ex-wife or GF, or it won't EVER do what you want, no matter how hard you hit her (it) ....

Lets not even go there.
sad.gif


Giving Colline one more shot this weekend.
 
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