a few JAE12 questions

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Tim Strange

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
402
Hello all, I have just finished building a jig for my JAE12...and am now one step closer to starting my build!

I have most all of the parts on hand except the servos and epoxy and have read just about everything I have found on the JAE12. I do have a few questions...

1) I am using the Nova Rossi .12 with the Solinger mounts. Does anyone know what size bolts the motor to mount holes are tapped for? Also, what is a good source for stainless bolts of this size...and others for use in this hobby?

2) I have the remote needle that Glenn Quarrels sells, but have no idea how to hook it up.The end that goes to the motor is threaded, Is there another fitting that I need? (Pics?)

3) I am using the solid Z12 strut that Zippkits sells. Is there any need to adjust for positive or negative angles...I assume this can be achieved by shimming the strut at the transom?

4) Any other thought on props? The only props that I have seen suggested are a back-cut Octura 1440 and a V937/3. The Miss Vegas stub shaft is stepped to accept 1/8" props, Would the Grimracer 36x55 or Octura X435 work?

Thanks for any help or suggestions

Tim S
 
the motor mount bolts are 4-40 and need to be short

the strut works perfect at 0 degrees just get it low to the ski

the needle doesnt mater which way it goes in-line

mark sholunds props4u 1440 mod prop is great
 
Hello all, I have just finished building a jig for my JAE12...and am now one step closer to starting my build!

I have most all of the parts on hand except the servos and epoxy and have read just about everything I have found on the JAE12. I do have a few questions...

1) I am using the Nova Rossi .12 with the Solinger mounts. Does anyone know what size bolts the motor to mount holes are tapped for? Also, what is a good source for stainless bolts of this size...and others for use in this hobby?

2) I have the remote needle that Glenn Quarrels sells, but have no idea how to hook it up.The end that goes to the motor is threaded, Is there another fitting that I need? (Pics?)

3) I am using the solid Z12 strut that Zippkits sells. Is there any need to adjust for positive or negative angles...I assume this can be achieved by shimming the strut at the transom?

4) Any other thought on props? The only props that I have seen suggested are a back-cut Octura 1440 and a V937/3. The Miss Vegas stub shaft is stepped to accept 1/8" props, Would the Grimracer 36x55 or Octura X435 work?

Thanks for any help or suggestions

Tim S

Not sure what the sling mounts are tapped...

If you have the OS max Needle.... then the side that is threaded connects to the tank run a fuel filter between the needle and the tank for safe measure... the other side connects directly to your carb. Did Glen Mod your Carb?

The Z 12 strut is perfect no need to adjust just mount and go! I dont have one myself But from what I have seen they are little gems and work great from what I hear.

Props you might want to talk to Mark Sholund at www.props4u.com he could point you in the right direction on what prop to use on your boat.

Anyone else want to chime in and correct anything I got wrong.....
 
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I took the remote needle and mounted it right up on the nipple going into the carb, zip-tied and using a very short piece of fuel line, maybe 3/8" long.

Yes, the fuel should enter from the bottom of the needle, kind of bass ackwards of what you'd think.

I'm using 4-40 x 1/2" bolts. I've got a LHS that sells a lot of stainlesss nuts, bolts and washers but there are online sources.

I've got several props to try but will probably end up by scoring some from Mark. I've got one sitting here that he made for me years ago that may have possibilities.

This shot here, http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g67/floatsfast/?action=view&current=JAE12008.jpg will give you an idea of how I set mine up.

Oh yeah, get rid of the Aquacraft flex cable and get a good one from Ed Hughey. I get mine from either Gary Preusse or www.offshoreelectrics.com , both Hughey dealers. Either of them also have good prices on the servos.
 
Chuck, Alexander and Ron thanks for all the input!

First, the Solinger .12 mounts are indeed 4-40...as well as the .21mounts BTW. I think Home Depot has some stainless hex head 4-40 bolts. I'll check on that tomorrow.

Second, I did get the carb mod from Glenn, and I was looking at the fuel flow to the OS needle "Bass Ackwards" LOL The fuel line tubing will work OK with the threaded end of the needle assembly...with maybe a zip tie there also? I got the tiny starting belt from him too. It looks to be quite a space saver.

Third, check on the strut at 0 degrees. Kind of curious about the modifying the ski to get the strut lower...

Fourth, I do have the Hughey .150 cable which I purchased from Zippkits with the kit BTW. Also, I am not sure of any issues with the Aquacraft cable other than a possible sketchy soldering job...fortunately I figured this out on land before the lake claimed my prop! I was just curious as if any 1/8 bore props are similar to the 3/16 bore props...i.e. the 1440 B/C...

Thanks again for lending your expertise!

Tim S
 
A long time ago, I got tired of buying 4 bolts for $2 - The GREATEST place for bolts, screws, washers, nuts, lock-nuts out of hardened steel, stainless steel, brass, aluminum, and nylon is:

www.microfasteners.com
 
The Carb is Nova Rossi that came with the engine, although it was modified by Glenn Quarles to remove 1/2 of the spraybar and the idle needle. The threads of the fuel nipple and the OS needle valve are the same, so it threads right in. The right angle fuel nipple of the OS needle valve fits inside the cowl nicely.

This picture has tape on the Carb openings, but it's all I have now.

Glenn

DSCN9245.JPG
 
The Carb is Nova Rossi that came with the engine, although it was modified by Glenn Quarles to remove 1/2 of the spraybar and the idle needle. The threads of the fuel nipple and the OS needle valve are the same, so it threads right in. The right angle fuel nipple of the OS needle valve fits inside the cowl nicely.

This picture has tape on the Carb openings, but it's all I have now.

Glenn

Nice work

OK! I guess I have to try one ... Also love your tune pipe support! Nice!!!
 
Thanks again for the input everybody...

I have a question regarding glue now. Specifically, I was wondering if it is OK to use CA to glue the tri-stock to the tub. To this point I have used 30 min epoxy on everything except for the the bulkheads. Just worried about weight at this point. Would using CA for this be too brittle? Of course if I use CA I may have a better chance of gluing myself to the tub...
 
Thanks again for the input everybody...

I have a question regarding glue now. Specifically, I was wondering if it is OK to use CA to glue the tri-stock to the tub. To this point I have used 30 min epoxy on everything except for the the bulkheads. Just worried about weight at this point. Would using CA for this be too brittle? Of course if I use CA I may have a better chance of gluing myself to the tub...

CA is fine for glueing the tri stock to the tub.
 
Stick with the epoxy it is stronger in the long run.

Thanks again for the input everybody...

I have a question regarding glue now. Specifically, I was wondering if it is OK to use CA to glue the tri-stock to the tub. To this point I have used 30 min epoxy on everything except for the the bulkheads. Just worried about weight at this point. Would using CA for this be too brittle? Of course if I use CA I may have a better chance of gluing myself to the tub...
 
Went with epoxy on the tri-stock for the bottom of the tub. I suppose to save a bit of weight I could have used CA to tack the bottom sheeting to the sides, and then used epoxy for the tri-stock.

I may use CA for the top tri-stock and then epoxy the top decking on.

I ended up using CA for the ski. I couldn't figure out how to keep things square and fight the warp in the bottom ski sheeting at the same time...plus I didn't see myself holding things together for a half hour! I may build a small fillet out of epoxy and micro-balloons for a bit more strength.

Thanks again everyone!
 
Went with epoxy on the tri-stock for the bottom of the tub. I suppose to save a bit of weight I could have used CA to tack the bottom sheeting to the sides, and then used epoxy for the tri-stock.

I may use CA for the top tri-stock and then epoxy the top decking on.

I ended up using CA for the ski. I couldn't figure out how to keep things square and fight the warp in the bottom ski sheeting at the same time...plus I didn't see myself holding things together for a half hour! I may build a small fillet out of epoxy and micro-balloons for a bit more strength.

Thanks again everyone!
Use blue 5/8" painters tape to hold down the plywood sheeting & use 10 to 15 min. epoxy & use Acetone to clean any access glue off the wood & off your hands.
 
Thanks everyone again for the help!

I haven't made much progress lately. I did manage to get a coat of epoxy on the sponsons and the inside of the tub. I tried CA for the Tri-stock for the top of the tub...worked fine for the radio box...however it was a fiasco for the forward tri-stock. Ended up with bits of balsa stuck to my fingertips...LOL!

Anyway, I am waiting for the slow boat from China to deliver my Lipos and BEC...actually that would be slow plane from China due to the Icelandic volcano eruption. Didn't realize that Iceland was in the Pacific!

For now I am trying to figure out my radio box layout. I am using a Hitec 225MG servo for the rudder which I plan to place directly behind the stuffing tube where it exits the bottom of the tub. For the throttle, I have a tiny Futaba S3114 which I think can be placed under or along side of the stuffing tube on the forward part of the radio box. The Lipo will go on the other side, and the receiver at the very back at the transom.

While looking at other people's radio box layouts, I noticed that some of you are using the short AA NiCad packs. What I need is some dimensions of those packs so I don't place the 225MG too far forward...just in case I need to go that route for a battery.

Also, I need to know how you guys are mounting the Zippkit rudder (non-Solinger). At the at the top of the transom?

I am a little bit worried that there may not be enough room between the rudder and prop...I am using the solid strut from Zippkits.

Thanks again!
 
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I just picked up two 4-cell AAA packs and they just fit in alongside of the stuffing tube as I set mine up to have the pack up by the bulkhead, the RX then the steering servo in the back as far as it could reasonably go and stil have access to it.

With the one-piece Zippkit's strut you shouldn't have any trouble with most other rudders. Keep in mind that the rudder won't need a whole lot of throw.

On one of my .12's so far I went with the Solinger but on the other I want a rudder with more depth. I just feel that once the boat is on plane there won't be much in the water. I'd rather err on the safe side.
 
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Finally getting somewhere! I have had few windows of opportunity to work on this thing, but the clock is ticking...the Evansville race is next weekend. I have decided to wait for paint and just run it with the Epoxy finish. The resin I am using takes a very long time to cure for some reason. Do you guys think 2 coats is enough?

Also, as of now all I have to use for a pipe is a choice between the MACS 21 pipe or either the old or new Miss Vegas pipes. I was hoping to get one of Glenn's pipes for the Nova Rossi .12, but he didn't have the materials to build any a while back.
 
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