Propper painting prep for Wood Hull??

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Darin Jordan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Messages
1,821
OK guys... you are the experts here... I can't seem to get it right...

WHAT do you do to prep your wooden hulls for paint? Figure starting from a bare, sanded, hull...

I'd love to here the steps that the experts use.

Thanks,
 
OK guys... you are the experts here... I can't seem to get it right...
WHAT do you do to prep your wooden hulls for paint? Figure starting from a bare, sanded, hull...

I'd love to here the steps that the experts use.

Thanks,

Hi Darin,

I'm sure you'll get a few different responses on what to use, but I seal all of my hulls with Mas epoxy. I like it much better than West because it's a bit thinner and soaks in a little better. I'm not a believer of thinning West. An epoxy expert told me not to, so I don't.

I put a thin coat on, let it sit for 15 minutes and credit card off the excess. The Mas soaks in and no need to carry the extra weight.

Have fun!!
 
brush on one coat of klass kote clear. sand. for a painted surface spray on grey primer. sand. spray on second cote of primer. sand. spray color. for a clear surface, spray 2 coats of clear, sanding between coats
 
Thanks for the responses thus far.

Keeping in mind that this would be for an Electric application, so no Nitro fuel involved... is it generally better to use Enamal or Laquer paints on the hull??
 
Hello Darin. I have been in the painting business for over forty years. The types of paints have changed over the years. Some for the good and some just bad. Over the years I have used all the major brands and them some. At this time I perfer PPG producs. I first must say that every thing I paint is sprayed. So if you are using another mothod please disregard this information.

I have painted many wood items with auto body paint. From fly rods to hot rods. The paints that I use are all two part. You have your base primers and a hardner. The primers are very durable. If you are painting a wooden hull I would first sand as smoth as possible. Then prime all areas inside and out. These products will withstand all fuels. If you have small defects use a two part filler. Sand and spray on more primer. The main thing is to not over prime. If all the wood grain is filled in and smoth you are there. Always have a good grease and oil remover and wipe and dry with a lint free cloth. also you need a good tack rag. You are now ready to paint the color. I don't recomened the old stye nitro lacquers or enamels. I use all base coat and clears. The beauty of this prosses is that you shot on your base color. Than do a light coat of clear. This way you can see if you have an area that is not good to go. If all looks good now you can put all your decals in place. and the clear over them. for small jobs like your boat. I use PPG DC 3000 fast clear. This works well if your spraying in the shop. Let dry a day or so then sand and buff.
 
Hello Darin. I have been in the painting business for over forty years. The types of paints have changed over the years. Some for the good and some just bad. Over the years I have used all the major brands and them some. At this time I perfer PPG producs. I first must say that every thing I paint is sprayed. So if you are using another mothod please disregard this information.
I have painted many wood items with auto body paint. From fly rods to hot rods. The paints that I use are all two part. You have your base primers and a hardner. The primers are very durable. If you are painting a wooden hull I would first sand as smoth as possible. Then prime all areas inside and out. These products will withstand all fuels. If you have small defects use a two part filler. Sand and spray on more primer. The main thing is to not over prime. If all the wood grain is filled in and smoth you are there. Always have a good grease and oil remover and wipe and dry with a lint free cloth. also you need a good tack rag. You are now ready to paint the color. I don't recomened the old stye nitro lacquers or enamels. I use all base coat and clears. The beauty of this prosses is that you shot on your base color. Than do a light coat of clear. This way you can see if you have an area that is not good to go. If all looks good now you can put all your decals in place. and the clear over them. for small jobs like your boat. I use PPG DC 3000 fast clear. This works well if your spraying in the shop. Let dry a day or so then sand and buff.

great info there thanks!
 
I use the West Systems epoxy, 105 resin and the 207 special coatings hardener. It has a slight tan tint to it, so the wood will darken a bit. I let it stand for about 10-15 minutes and use a playing card to squeegee it down. Then I sand with a 220/400 block and apply Polane clear. For a color top coat I apply primer/filler and wet sand it down and then apply a light coat of primer and then color, then clear. On wood I prefer to see the wood and the clear is less weight and work.
 
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