Broken tap in engine mount

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Sean Bowf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
716
Ok...was doing the whole screw it in a few turns, back it out and clear the gap between the flutes thing...and still wound up breaking off the tap (first time in all the times I used taps...even my cheap HF ones...).

Anyhow, short of buy a new mount, anyone got any ideas one this one??

Click here to see pic.

There is only one piece sticking up, and it is not sticking up far enough to get a hold of (other piece in pic was loose.

Sean
 
SeanDoe's the drilled hole go all the way thur the mount.

Dave Roach
Yes, and the tip of the tap is BARELY sticking past the bottom...just barely. Nothing really enough to grab a hold of on either end.

Sean

mono_mount_tap_broke2.JPG
 
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The only way to get that out is to have some that is good with a heliarc stand some weld up on top of the broken tap enough to get a grip with a vice grip or some other tool. I've done it many times on taps and bolts. I'd be glad to take it out if you want to send it over. Use a lot more tap lube next time.

Mike B
 
I'm am just throwing this out there have never tried it have no idea how it would work. If you heated the aluminum like you do a engine block to release the bearings would that work to help loosen the tap so less effort is needed to unscrew it? In this case I'm not sure if there is enough to grab but in other cases would something like this work?

Paul
 
I'm am just throwing this out there have never tried it have no idea how it would work. If you heated the aluminum like you do a engine block to release the bearings would that work to help loosen the tap so less effort is needed to unscrew it? In this case I'm not sure if there is enough to grab but in other cases would something like this work?

Paul
Hi, Sean! There is no any safety way to take out the broken tap! I using tap enough often and if tap is broken I try to push it out with nail setter and hammer. Do not forget to flat the end of tap before start hammerin. Usually you can retread the hole, because your tread was not complete. The worst scenario you have to use bigger bolt. Boris
 
Heating it willn't do you any good at this point.
Dave Roach
Use a round file<trash can just be glad its only a motor mount. I just broke a 6-32 off on my sport 40 turn fin backer this is going to be a long nite :( :(
 
Man, you had to get me thinking about breaking a tap. I have two more holes to tap (4-40 size) in a Sport 40 I'm working on. If I don't think about it.....it won't happen..... right.

I saw a few months ago somewhere on the internet, a simple cheap tool similar to an awl that supposedly would bust a tap apart. I can't seem to find it now, but Ebay has some different items that are supposed to help.

This seller is in the UK

These are size and 3 or 4 flute specific not to mention expensive

Or on Ebay you can search this ....... tap (extractor, extracter, remover)

I imagine that a bust apart method would harm the hole in aluminum

Also if the hole ends up needing to be drilled larger Heli-coils(thread inserts and there are other names as well) work great but I'm not sure what the smallest sizes they are made in.
 
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How about stickin it a drill press and just start on drilling a small hole and keep going bigger till it's loose?
 
Tampa Tim

Good luck on drilling out a tap not as easy as you think.You will need carbide drills for that.
 
I read some were I think in here a while back. If you have any access to sulfuric acid set the mount in it. it should eat the steel and leave the aluminum. Never tried it.
 
The only way to get that out is to have some that is good with a heliarc stand some weld up on top of the broken tap enough to get a grip with a vice grip or some other tool. I've done it many times on taps and bolts. I'd be glad to take it out if you want to send it over. Use a lot more tap lube next time.Mike B
Tap lube?? That might be my missing ingrediant. Just oil?? Or something else? I did not lube anything during the process.

Thanks for the offer, let me see what I can figure out...if I can't get something going, I may impose on your offer.

I'm am just throwing this out there have never tried it have no idea how it would work. If you heated the aluminum like you do a engine block to release the bearings would that work to help loosen the tap so less effort is needed to unscrew it? In this case I'm not sure if there is enough to grab but in other cases would something like this work?Paul
I was hoping someone would say this would work...hoping that aluminum expanded more than whatever metal the tap is made from....guess not...

Hi, Sean! There is no any safety way to take out the broken tap! I using tap enough often and if tap is broken I try to push it out with nail setter and hammer. Do not forget to flat the end of tap before start hammerin. Usually you can retread the hole, because your tread was not complete. The worst scenario you have to use bigger bolt. Boris
That might work if I can get it out...then I could just nut it if there is not enough to get threads again...

How about stickin it a drill press and just start on drilling a small hole and keep going bigger till it's loose?
I have a regular and dremel drill press. I really don't think a drill bit is going to go through a tap. But had thought of using some sort of diamond bit in the dremel and trying that down the center of it...just wanted to see what everyone else had to say first.

Thanks everyone for your inputs...I am still listening, and have not done anything yet...so all ears.

Sean
 
get some Tap magic for Aluminum it works the best...
Where do I find something like that Terry?? I got the tap from lowes...and don't remember anything near them for lube...but was not looking for it...

BTW, I have some etchant for circuit boards...but would rather punch the tap out and use a nut than take a chance at the feric chloride eating the aluminum as fast as it eats the steel...thanks for the input though.

Sean
 
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get some Tap magic for Aluminum it works the best...
Where do I find something like that Terry?? I got the tap from lowes...and don't remember anything near them for lube...but was not looking for it...

BTW, I have some etchant for circuit boards...but would rather punch the tap out and use a nut than take a chance at the feric chloride eating the aluminum as fast as it eats the steel...thanks for the input though.

Sean
You should be able to get it at Lowes. As for as the Acid. sulfuric shouldn't touch the non feris metal.
 
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I use whatever oil I can reach in a few seconds--- WD-40, 3-N-1, motor oil, transmission fluid or soul glow(from the movie "Coming To America"). They all work fine for me.
 
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